Shark Guard discount till July 5.

[Stytooner]

Just a note for those that might be looking for a Shark Guard.
10% discount through the 4th. Short lead times are driving this. I know in the past, some have expressed that the price might be too high and lead times too long. This might help with that.

[pelligrini]

What have you got your turn around times down to now?

I don't know about anyone else, but I'd be willing to pay twice as much and wait twice as long if I were to need another one. It's a fantastic product.

If you don't already have one, do yourself a favor and jump on this deal!

[BobSch]

I don't know about anyone else, but I'd be willing to pay twice as much and wait twice as long if I were to need another one. It's a fantastic product.

If you don't already have one, do yourself a favor and jump on this deal!

I'll second all of that. I rarely used the guard that came with the saw. Now the only time I don't use Shark is for dado's and other cuts where no guard would work.

If only more things were as well-engineered and built as Lee's Shark...

[jussi]

Do you guys use the guard when doing small rip cuts when the fence is really close to the guard? If so, how do you do it safely?

[gsmittle]

Do you guys use the guard when doing small rip cuts when the fence is really close to the guard? If so, how do you do it safely?

I use the riving knife, but remove the guard and bracket if I'm ripping something ~1" or less. Any thinner and I rip them on the left side of the blade.

+2 on buying at twice the price and lead time! The Shark is the most-used and most-appreciated accessory on my BT. When I get my vintage Jet cabinet saw working, I'll order one for it, even if that Guard is a one-off, custom job at three times the normal price.

g.

[dbhost]

Just a note for those that might be looking for a Shark Guard.
10% discount through the 4th. Short lead times are driving this. I know in the past, some have expressed that the price might be too high and lead times too long. This might help with that.

How do we take advantage of the discount? Is there a coupon code you are using?

[pelligrini]

I really like the detachable shark guard for when I fold my 21829 up. Otherwise, the thing will flop and swing around when I tilt the table vertical. Another reason I didn't use the OEM guard much.

Do you guys use the guard when doing small rip cuts when the fence is really close to the guard? If so, how do you do it safely?

If the fence isn't closer than a 1/4" to the guard sometimes I'll use a narrow push shoe that will fit in between the guard and fence. If I have a bunch of narrow strips or if the fence needs to be even closer I'll set up a grrriper or my pair for longer rips. The guard comes off easily for that.

The riving knife hardly ever comes off. only for dadoes and box joint sets.

[Stytooner]

How do we take advantage of the discount? Is there a coupon code you are using?

Just shoot me an email.
I will include the discount in the invoice.

[dbhost]

Just shoot me an email.
I will include the discount in the invoice.

Hope a PM will work...

Don't suppose you take trade ins on an early SG would ya? Honestly, if I didn't want the 4" port, I wouldn't bother...

[LinuxRandal]

Hope a PM will work...

Don't suppose you take trade ins on an early SG would ya? Honestly, if I didn't want the 4" port, I wouldn't bother...

Actually, two things...........

One, I think it would go pretty quick in the classifieds.
Two, I've been wondering what Lee uses on his BT, the older, smaller opening, or the 4" port? Found any real advantage of one over the other? (example, only with MDF, not with plywood)

Thanks

[dbhost]

Actually, two things...........

One, I think it would go pretty quick in the classifieds.
Two, I've been wondering what Lee uses on his BT, the older, smaller opening, or the 4" port? Found any real advantage of one over the other? (example, only with MDF, not with plywood)

Thanks

Hmmm. I would think the 4" would flow better... For now my SG is hooked up via duct tape wrap around the 2" port to snug it up to a 4" to 2.5" funnel reducer. It works pretty well, but honestly it is a funky arrangement that I am not tickled with... Aside from this one port oddity, I am tickled silly with the function of this guard / riving knife.

If I were to upgrade my table saw to a cabinet saw, I would still pick one with a riving knife, and it would certainly HAVE to have a Shark Guard available for it... But no worries, that is quite a ways down the road... Still tickled silly with my BT.

[Stytooner]

Actually, two things...........

One, I think it would go pretty quick in the classifieds.
Two, I've been wondering what Lee uses on his BT, the older, smaller opening, or the 4" port? Found any real advantage of one over the other? (example, only with MDF, not with plywood)

Thanks

I ran the 4" for awhile for testing. Likely over a year. I swapped back to the 2.5" version simply for my router table. It uses a 2.5" port.
I don't get to cut as much wood as I used to.
This link may help explain what I have found on these.
http://www.leestyron.com/1options.php

[tbarn]

Thanks for the good deal. I always wanted one for my BT3100 but I am glad I waited and now I will have it for the R4511.
With all the good reviews I know it will be a welcome and safe addition to my shop.

[dbhost]

Hey Lee, a dumb question. If I have a Shark Guard, say the one I have on order from you, and in a year I decide, I want to go with a different saw, perhaps a Grizzly G0961 for example, can I just replace the riving knife and use my clamp and guard or do I need the whole shebang?

[Stytooner]

You sure can.
The only time you would need something different would be if you went to a bigger saw like a 12" or 14".