iVac Automated Vacuum Switch $36 at WC

[skamath]

ivac vacuum switch for sale
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208...um-Switch.aspx

free shipping today/tomm as well with code 22331

[KC7CN]

ivac vacuum switch for sale
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208...um-Switch.aspx

free shipping today/tomm as well with code 22331

I have had the Sears Craftsman Auto Switch for years. Use it with my miter saw and a shop vacuum. Works good!

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...24031&sLevel=1

-Don

Edit: On closer examination, I see that the iVac Automated Vacuum Switch is unique with the dual circuits and delayed turn on, as well as the delayed accessory turn-off; I can see the advantage when used with a large shop vac.

[Mr__Bill]

If I read it right the IVac switch uses two 15A circuits with 2 integral 12A breakers. What happens when you have a saw that is on a 20A circuit? Even my BT3 is rated for more than 12A.


Bill
it's rained so much it's washed most of the paint off of the truck.
it's rained so much So. California is going to be renamed Lahar California

[LCHIEN]

that does seem to be a serious limitation - 12 A circuit breakers for both.

[skamath]

that does seem to be a serious limitation - 12 A circuit breakers for both.

the woodcraft site probably has it wrong.
the following site says the breaker is 15A
http://www.ivacswitch.com/features.php

anybody on this board have this switch and have comments?

the reason i ordered this is because the DC and the power tool can be on separate circuits.

[Mr__Bill]

It's confusing, one place says: (the emphases is mine)
Specifications

- The iVac Switch Box is designed to operate from one or two 15 Amp AC mains circuits.
- The maximum AC current to the tool should not exceed 12 Amps.
- Turn On Delay (In Auto Mode.) 0.5 seconds to 2.0 seconds.
- Turn Off Delay (In Auto Mode.) Approximately 6.0 seconds.
- Turn On Tool Current in Auto Mode. 0.3 Amps to 12 Amps.


Further down in the chart is says:

Both power cords are individually protected with 15 Amp circuit breakers.

I expect that my 13A BT3 would not trip the breaker but who knows.

Bill
over here in the rain

[toolguy1000]

like KC7CN, i have been using the sears auto switch for years.i use an auto rollup extension cord to connect a power tool to it. either the TS, RAS, BS, planer,jointer spindle sander, etc can be connected, individually. addtionally, the accessory outlets power an ap400 and a 20gal creaftman shopvac. the auto switch is on a single 20 amp circuit and, except for when the router table is used and the load peaks, the breaker doesn't trip. so the c-man is obviously engineered for intermittent load spikes.

i also acquired the ivac switch from WC on sale last year and have temporarily applied it to my power tools in place of the c-man auto switch. it performed just like the c-man, but does have the advantage of the second circuit for the accesory. FYI, here is the manufactrers site and their comparison of the ivac to two other competitors:

http://www.ivacswitch.com/features.php

in discussing the ivac switch with their design engineer, he confirmed that:

1. the ivac can be daisy chained. this means that, using two of them, it would be possiblbe to power an activating tool on circuit A, power a frist accessory automatically on circuit B, and power a second accessory automatically on circuit C. in a shop like mine, with only 30 amp service, that allows me to draw power for tools and accesories over several circuits, "eliminating " a posible individual circuit "bottleneck, and attendant power limitations.

2. they are working on a family of wireless auto switches that will permit the mixing of 110 and 220 v tools and acessories whilie still having slaves automatically activated by master tools, regardless of the single phase voltage of each item.

given my experience with the ivac adn the c-man, there appears to be little to be concerned about the apparent 15 amp limitation. and another advantage of the ivac concerns the scenario where an accessory is a shopvac that nees to be used apart from the master tool. the switch provides for manual activation of the accessory apart from its automatic activation in a slave capacity. this makes using the shopvac much easier as it elminates the need to unplug teh shop vac from the switch in order to use it separate from a "master" (controlling) tool. i had to configure an outlet with a 3 way switch to facilitate this "ad hoc" shopvac use without unplugging the accessory from the c-man auto switch.

frankly, after using both these items, and using the same c-man for at least 4 years, i'm surprised these aren't used more frequently than they apparently are. i even have a c-man in my tools that travels with me for when i help friends. takes just a second to hook up and makes for a much neater worksite and eliminates the need to remember to activate watever dust collection device is being used. i give them both a hearty endorsement.

[Mr__Bill]

Thanks ToolGuy, now we know.


Bill
over here in the rain

[BobSch]

As to the 15A/12A question. Normally breakers are designed to be used at 80% of their rated value so

15A * 80%=12A

[garymuto]

44 bucks now

[skamath]

i finally tried the unit today with my HF DC and it trips the circuit breaker every time.

out of curiosity i tried to measure the startup current (with a kill-a-watt meter) and it registers 26, 22, etc., before it settles to around 11 amps. i am really surprised that it pulls that much current at startup.

i did change the capacitor when it went bad (found the closest match) could it be because of that?

[Mr__Bill]

ivac vacuum switch for sale
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208...um-Switch.aspx

free shipping today/tomm as well with code 22331

Thanks for starting the thread, hadn't thought of the switch before and decided to get one. Ordered one and had a chance to try it today and it looks like a good match with my BT3 and vac. Now to decide how to mount it to the saw. Or not.

Bill

[LCHIEN]

i finally tried the unit today with my HF DC and it trips the circuit breaker every time.

out of curiosity i tried to measure the startup current (with a kill-a-watt meter) and it registers 26, 22, etc., before it settles to around 11 amps. i am really surprised that it pulls that much current at startup.

i did change the capacitor when it went bad (found the closest match) could it be because of that?

i've used faster meters on the HF DC than the Kill-o-watt and it pulls 60-70A instantaneously and settles just below 15A. If yours is only drawing 11A running then you have a lot of restriction on the line which will cause the current to be lower than 15A. Maximum current flows when there is maximum airflow. I measured 15A with the inlet open (no hose or piping) and just the canister filter (low restriction) on top.

most circuit breakers will pass 5-10 times the rated current for a fraction of a second while a motor starts up, because induction motors need that much current.

[Jcrawf]

Is there any advantage of using an automated switch instead of a switched dual outlet? I use a switched outlet with both the miter saw and the vac plugged into it. By leaving the vac switch in the on position, it turns on when I flip the switch on the outlet, and at the same time power is supplied to the miter saw. It seems to me this is more practical, and far cheaper, than an automated switch. What advantage am I overlooking?
Jack

[LCHIEN]

Is there any advantage of using an automated switch instead of a switched dual outlet? I use a switched outlet with both the miter saw and the vac plugged into it. By leaving the vac switch in the on position, it turns on when I flip the switch on the outlet, and at the same time power is supplied to the miter saw. It seems to me this is more practical, and far cheaper, than an automated switch. What advantage am I overlooking?
Jack

One claimed advantage of the automated switches is a delayed turn off (a few seconds) of the controlled switch, this allegedly allows the vac to clear the hose and work area completely before being shut down.

On your shared switch/duplex outlet it's also very hard on the switch which must switch two motor loads on simultaneously. The switch may not last real long but of course a cheap wall-box switches can be bought for around a dollar.

Having two switches for the tool is also a potential danger leading to confusion (happened to me) thinking both switches are off when one is on and the motor starts unexpectedly ... with the auto switch the tool switch is the only one controlling the tool and hence safer.

Another advantage and maybe the biggest of the discussed auto-switch (and not the Sears switch) is that the load is shared between two outlets which can be on completely separate breakers. Because your saw can draw 15A and vacs typcially draw 10 or more amps, putting them on one circuit risks tripping the breaker when the saw is heavily loaded.