HF laser arbor #96401 for $10

[Monyet]

Hello there,

Would anyone happen to know if this is any good? I thought I might stop by and pick one up but if its not at least halfway reliable, then I might think twice.

Thanks,
Monyet

[sweensdv]

If this laser actually projects a line that is the actual cut line than it will be the first arbor mounted laser that I've heard of that actually does that.

[garymuto]

I have an Irwin laser that prjects a line on the left of the blade. I found that the right edge of the laser beam corresponded with the left edge of the blade. I paid $10 at Rockler on clearance when they had free shipping.
It's OK but I admit that it would be a lot easier if the laser line was the actual cut line (kerf) from the blade.

[JSUPreston]

Okay, crazy idea, but I've got to ask. If I don't, someone else will.

What about two of these, one on each side of the blade? If the edges of the lasers line up with the blade properly, you'd definately know exactly where the cut will be.

[LarryG]

On most if not all saws, there wouldn't be room for the laser gadget on the motor side of the blade. The arbor would be too short, the blade would get shifted to the left and out of alignment with the throat plate, and I'm thinking the bevel scale wouldn't be accurate on compound cuts because the blade would no longer be where the scale expected it to be (I think. I'd have to draw this last one out to be sure).

Other than those few little things, you have a great idea ...

[JSUPreston]

Heck, do we actually have to use that little nut on the end of the arbor?

I imagine there may be some smaller arbor mounted lasers that might fit. I wasn't too sure about the thickness. If you watch Nahm, some of the newer shows have a miter with dual lasers. I assume the lasers are mounted elsewhere.

[LarryG]

If you watch Nahm, some of the newer shows have a miter with dual lasers. I assume the lasers are mounted elsewhere.

Last year he started using the Delta 36-255L, the same CMS I have. It has dual lasers mounted in the motor head. They're adjustable so that the lines can be projected exactly where the edges of the kerf are. Very slick, very accurate system.

[dbhost]

I found that even after setting up my laser guide on my CMS, I simply don't use it. I find that I just lower the blade down with the saw off, and line everything up, clamp in place to keep it from moving, power up, and start cutting...

[dlminehart]

I've read mixed reviews of a product called "LaserKerf". It projects a laser beam whose width corresponds to the blade kerf, comes in two kerf widths, and is powered via either AC or batteries. Costs somewhere around $50, I believe. I looked into it until I saw some negative reviews.

[just started]

I also have the Irwin on my CMS and I do use it sometimes and like it. There would not be room for 2 on a CMS, but I was thinking of trying 2 on my RAS with a dado blade. At this price I just might.

[John Hunter]

The laser on my Ryobi 10" CMS is dead on.

[poolhound]

For my CMS (Dewalt) I made a custom ZCTP rather than the wide gapped one that came with it. Once I cut into it with the blade it gives me the exact edges of the cut. I jut line up my pencil mark with the edge of the gap on the throat plate and thats all there is to it.

[jhart]

I have a Craftsman model with a lazer and find it to be very accurate when lined up on the edge. I've been very happy with the unit.

[LinuxRandal]

For my CMS (Dewalt) I made a custom ZCTP rather than the wide gapped one that came with it. Once I cut into it with the blade it gives me the exact edges of the cut. I jut line up my pencil mark with the edge of the gap on the throat plate and thats all there is to it.

What material did you make it out of? How thick?

With these inexpensive saws, the throat plate is fairly thin, and I haven't gotten around to trying it yet. Also, while my saw came with a laser (GMC), it isn't very visable, and the biggest problem (the one that I called them about after purchase), not adjustable. That said, with a good blade (LU85) it has done what I need, and wonderfully after a tune up. I just lower the blade to the item, the set up a stop block for repeat miters/cutoffs.

[poolhound]

What material did you make it out of? How thick?

The lip around the edge of the opening is about a 1/4. I therefore either just use 1/4 material or mill the edge of something thicker to fit. As the opening in a CMS is smaller than a TS and there is generally so much support from the table either side the material doesnt need to be that stiff. I still woulnet use cardboard but there is a 1/4" MDF piece in there right now and it works just fine. I have used ply, flooring or even HW scraps.