Hitachi C12FDH Reconditioned Sale - $149!

[johnwest72]

http://www.reconditionedsales.com/Hi...d)___i189.aspx

[herb fellows]

http://www.reconditionedsales.com/Hi...d)___i189.aspx

FYI, someone else posted this 4 days ago. Good lookin' out though!

[LCHIEN]

i notice that most miter saws have a direct drive e.g. the motor shaft is the arbor. This keeps the saw from beveling on one side because the motor would hit the wood.
On this double bevel saw the motor is elevated (above the centerline of the blade) which means it uses gears or belts. Any issues about this?

I'd be interested in a 12" saw as sometimes the 10" is just too small.
Looks like the depth is like 30"? W X D X H spec'd at 24-5/8 x 30-3/4 x 27" which seems huge.

Any other gotchas about a 12" miter saw?

[JimD]

I posted this the first time and just got mine yesterday. It look brand new. Settings seem to be dead on and the fence is square to the table. It's a very nice saw for this price. Only setup was to install the handle that changes miter angle and the extension fence pieces on the left side.

I don't know about the longevity of the belt that is used to get the power from the motor which sits on the left side above the blade to the arbor but I did start it up to be sure it was working. I don't think I've sharpened a CMS blade yet. I change them before they get dull. Cross-cutting is so much shorter than ripping that even though it gets used regularly it takes me a long time to dull the blade. I suspect that will also tend to make the longevity of the belt a non-issue but I will have to see. Even if it requires occasional replacement it seems like a good tradeoff for me for the ability to bevel on both sides and have the motor out of the way for crown moulding.

With respect to size, I was a little concerned too. My 10 inch sits on a long table with a fence with flip stops for it and my RAS. I want to put the Hitachi there and my quick check indicates it will fit. The fence face on the table is about 14 inches from the wall which seems like about an inch more than is required for the Hitachi. I also have a couple inches more length than necessary. I will have to build a sub-base to lift it to the right height but I expected that. The RAS has a base under it with two drawers for accessories so the CMS will always have to be raised for my setup. Sliders require a lot of depth and that is one reason I preferred a non-slider (price is another big reason). The bag would make the depth requirement bigger but I will get a right angle piece for the dust port and hook to my dust collector. It looks like a non-standard 2 1/2 inch port but I will try normal fittings and aluminum tape the connector on if necessary (port looks a little under 2 1/2).

If anybody finds an outlet for the accessories, please post. I did not see any dust connectors in the catalog but might be interested in the crown moulding stops.

Jim

[LCHIEN]

Question: assuming you can push it up to the wall, how far from the wall will the end of the miter angle handle be at 90 degrees? with and w/o the bag?

[JimD]

Lchien,

I did not measure that dimension and am not where the saw is at the moment. What I measured is the distance from a wall I put the CMS against (and cycled it to make sure I could use it in that position) and the vertical surface you hold the wood against. That is about 13 inches. If you put the bag on the most obvious way, you would need to increase that dimension a few inches but it pivots so you could also just put it at right angles and eliminate the limitation. I think the total depth of the CMS is about 24 inches or maybe 26 inches. The locking lever for the bevel adjustment can go up against the wall so the distance out is essentially the width of the saw. If you needed to gain a couple inches, you could rig up a different knob to tighten the miter setting. It is a long bolt essentially and the knob is maybe 4 inches long. With a ball type knob, you could gain a couple inches and the saw should work fine. It ships with just a plain bolt in this position.

If you have a specific limitation you are trying to work around I may be able to provide additional information. It works essentially the same as my 10 inch single bevel (a Pro-tech) but it is understandably a bit bigger. My fence got positioned where the RAS needed it so it appears I will be OK with the bigger CMS.

Jim

[LCHIEN]

a measurement tonite would be nice, the specs on the web say its like 30.7" deep, seems a bit much, I'm not sure if that's the shipping box dimension or the unit itself.
While you're at it would you mind giving me the width of the base, too? Thx.

[JimD]

Loring,

The depth from the website seems pretty close. I have my Hitachi sitting on a table and spaced less than an inch from the wall, like I would mount it and still be able to use it. I eyeballed the distance from the wall to the tip of the handle at 31 3/4 inches. The depth from the wall to the front of the mounting flange is 20 1/4 inches, however (still with some space between the bevel lock and the wall). The handle is 5 inches long. When I eyeball the distance from the wall to the tip of the latch above the handle for miters, I get 27 3/4. If you made a knob 2-3 inches long you could reduce the depth under 30 inches (that could be as simple as pinning a plastic knob to a metric bolt with the right thread). I do not think the depth will be an issue for me so I plan to just use it as-is. The mounting surface does not need to be real deep (mine is 24 inches which will be plenty), but the pivoting part of the table sticks out beyond that and then you have the long handle. Another option for making it narrower when you are not using it is to pivot to an extreme right miter setting which would reduce the depth to about 26 inches - this is how it ships.

I could measure the width of the mounting part (as opposed to eyeballing the depth) (the widest part) and I got 23 7/8. Just under 24 inches.

Jim

[Schleeper]

http://www.reconditionedsales.com/Hi...d)___i189.aspx

John, you may want to check your private messages.