NIB BT3100's

[backpacker85]

Maybe it's just my luck, or timing, or whatever, but......after finally deciding on the saw I MUST HAVE, they all seemed to vanish. Over 10 HD in the middle TN area, & not even a floor model left; also nothing within driving distance on eBay, Craigslist, etc, so I figured the budget would have to increase and the new saw was on hold for a while. While visiting relatives outside Atlanta, GA yesterday, dropped in a HD just to satisfy my curiosity, and lo & behold, 2 BT3100's in boxes on the top shelf (sorry, only 1 left now). This was at the Austell store, and their computer showed 3 NIB BT3100's available at the Lithia Springs store (both stores just outside Marietta) and all were priced at $239. The salespeople had problems searching by make or model, but when I had them search by sku# (348-281), all 5 popped up. Hope this helps someone in need.

[gmack5]

Welcome to the Family!

Welcome packpacker85,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 Table Saw and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!

A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.

I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.
Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.
The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult, if not impossible, to finish.

Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list
This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[Ken Weaver]

Welcom aboard packpacker85 - have fun, make sawdust and be safe!

[TheRic]

Welcome to the family!

[backpacker85]

Thanks All

Thanks all for the warm welcome and suggestions. I know the setup will take a bit, but will be worth it in the long run.

Just one question.....any thoughts on how long I can get away with "...still setting it up..." on MY projects before I have to actually start on the growing list of LOML's projects?

[JeremyM]

So, is the BT3100 being phased out or what?

[Larry David]

Is the BT3100 discontinued? If so, what are thay replacing it with??

[LCHIEN]

Semiofficially it seems to be done for.
HD was the sole retailer and they say its discontinued and no longer available and its no longer on the Ryobi or HD websites.
The Sears Craftsman 21829 is based on the same design but has a few changes in the base (portable) and a number of cosmetic changes. The SMT and rip fence, motor and elevation/bevel are all primarily the same. Aux table is changed and will be router ready.
Should take most jigs and accessory stuff for the BT3100.
Runs about $450 retail but they say you can watch for sales and get it around $400...

[tuttlejr]

That Sear's model has a really great fence.

[Larry David]

Semiofficially it seems to be done for.
HD was the sole retailer and they say its discontinued and no longer available and its no longer on the Ryobi or HD websites.
The Sears Craftsman 21829 is based on the same design but has a few changes in the base (portable) and a number of cosmetic changes. The SMT and rip fence, motor and elevation/bevel are all primarily the same. Aux table is changed and will be router ready.
Should take most jigs and accessory stuff for the BT3100.
Runs about $450 retail but they say you can watch for sales and get it around $400...

Well if the BT3100 is done for the only good alternative at HD is the Ridgid table saw. The other Ryobi table saws models leave a lot to be desired in my very humble opinion. I believe the Ridgid table saw sells for quite a bit more than the BT3100 does/did too.

[ExYankee]

Welcome Backpacker..
If I've caught you before you have set up your new toy and you live in the Nashville area, I assume as much from your mention of middle TN ) I would be glad to give you a hand , I have done two and i just bought a 12" 30/60 triangle with a steel edge to get mine just right.

[backpacker85]

Thanks, John. Small problem with packing a family, luggage and a saw in the Toyota (especially with 3 countertop blanks already in there), so it's in my sister's garage in Marietta. No scheduled return date yet, but I appreciate the offer, & will give a shout if I need it.

P.S.- another ex-yankee (Buckeye) down the road in Dickson