Sanding question--stumped

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  • sailor55330
    Established Member
    • Jan 2010
    • 494

    #1

    Sanding question--stumped

    Hi all

    Been a while since it posted as I don't do much with wood anymore. I née some collective brain power.

    I am refinishing my cedar deck which in Minnesota means sanding the horizontal surfaces about every 2 years. I rented an orbital floor sander for the big parts which worked well but it didn't fit under the rails which are 4 inches from the deck by code. I still need to sand about a 3" section under the railing. An ROS won't reach nor will a belt sander. Doing this with a multi tool would take days and still barely reach. I've tried an air sander but my compressor won't quite keep up. I tried a pole sander but it's difficult to get enough pressure given the odd working area.

    I'm stumped. The deck is quite large so sanding by hand would be a nightmare given the limited work space clearance of just over 3.5 inches.

    Anyone have any ideas? I guess the easiest way to describe it is mount a 2x4 on edge 3.5 inches above a surface then sand under it. I thought about removing the rails but given they are aluminum ballusters, that would be a nightmare alone

    Any thoughts are welcome. Thank you
  • JimD
    Veteran Member
    • Feb 2003
    • 4187
    • Lexington, SC.

    #2
    What about the sanders that are shaped like a right angle grinder? I have a DeWalt and I believe Porter Cable also makes one. There are also polishers for cars that might be able to sand shaped the same way. My DeWalt will sand quickly but is a little hard to use because of power and vibration.

    Comment

    • TimTucker
      Forum Newbie
      • Jun 2014
      • 36

      #3
      What about an attachment for a recriprocating saw like this:
      Http://www.amazon.com/Paws-Off-Tools.../dp/B0014FNXNQ

      Alternately, why not build a tool for the task?

      Assuming you have someone who can help out, I'm envisioning something akin to a 2 man crosscut saw:

      2x6 board laid out as follows:
      --1--------2---------3

      With the parts in each position being:
      1. Handle on the top (easier to grab while on the deck)
      2. Sand paper attached on the top
      3. Handle on the end (easier to grab while off the deck)

      Just slid underneath the rail and rub back and forth. The person on the deck does most do the work providing upward pressure and the person off the deck does most of the work moving the board back and forth.

      Comment

      • sailor55330
        Established Member
        • Jan 2010
        • 494

        #4
        The right angle sander wasn't quite deep enough. The air sander I tried was of this configuration. I did see the reciprocating sander but I would have to buy the saw. HF has one for $29. At least that way if it dies not a big loss.

        Two man sander. Interesting. The surface to be sanded is the deck surface. The railing is mounted just above. Wonder if something could be fashioned...


        Thanks guys
        Last edited by sailor55330; 07-06-2014, 08:03 PM.

        Comment

        • eccentrictinkerer
          Senior Member
          • Aug 2007
          • 669
          • Minneapolis, MN
          • BT-3000, 21829

          #5
          How about renting an edge floor sander?



          http://www.todayshomeowner.com/floor...call-in-a-pro/
          You might think I haven't contributed much to the world, but a large number
          of the warning labels on tools can be traced back to things I've done...

          Comment

          • sailor55330
            Established Member
            • Jan 2010
            • 494

            #6
            I tried. The Borg didn't have one


            Like I said I'm stumped

            Comment

            • capncarl
              Veteran Member
              • Jan 2007
              • 3752
              • Leesburg Georgia USA
              • SawStop CTS

              #7
              Take the bottom rail off. If there is no reason for it, like small children, leave it off if you like. -------- the code.

              Comment

              • trungdok
                Established Member
                • Oct 2012
                • 235
                • MA

                #8
                Try a drum sanding attachment (something like http://www.harborfreight.com/sanding...-pc-60741.html OR make one that's longer than 3 in), and use a drill to power it.

                Comment

                • Clock Maker
                  Forum Newbie
                  • Dec 2013
                  • 21

                  #9
                  I have seen a couple 3X21 belt sanders shaped like a dragster to fit under the toe kick of cabinets. I believe Sears has one and I saw another at Home Depot a while back.

                  Comment

                  • frumper64
                    Established Member
                    • Feb 2004
                    • 376
                    • Garland, Tx, USA.

                    #10
                    The "dragster" sander might be the answer. Black and Decker makes one. Not the world's best belt sander, but not the worst either.
                    Jim
                    64sedan_at_gmail.com

                    Comment

                    • JoeyGee
                      Veteran Member
                      • Nov 2005
                      • 1509
                      • Sylvania, OH, USA.
                      • BT3100-1

                      #11
                      By "Multi tool" did you mean one of the oscillating tools like the Fein and several knock offs? If so, why didn't this work? Could you use one and add a DIY sanding attachment to it? Something similar to the reciprocating saw attachment noted earlier?
                      Joe

                      Comment

                      • sailor55330
                        Established Member
                        • Jan 2010
                        • 494

                        #12
                        Thanks to all for the all the ideas. I ultimately found an edge floor sander (just before I saw the link posted) to rent---it's a 40 mile drive each way, but I think a better option in the long run as opposed to buying a tool that may or may not be good solution and will likely be a very limited use item.

                        Just to be respectful and try to answer the questions asked.

                        1. I wasn't familiar with a dragster sander so I checked it out. It "might" have worked, but it would have been close on clearance. I do appreciate the info.

                        2. The mulit-tool was of the type you asked about. Sanding a 4 in strip around an 18x20 deck would have meant sanding 76ft twice since it wouldn't reach under the rail completely from either side. Once from the inside, once from the outside on a ladder as the deck is off of a second story walkout. Additoinally, it would have still left about 1/4" area untouched. I did try it.

                        3. With the deck 12-15ft off the ground, removing the bottom rail wasn't really an option, plus with aluminum ballusters, it would have destroyed the look the wife likes, which is worse than hand sanding....(lol)

                        In retrospect, I think the best option for MN for a deck is composite. Cedar is beautiful, but up here, the maintenance is never ending. I even priced out replacing the floorboards......at just under $3,000 for the boards, I think I'll try the $29 rental sander a few times.

                        Again, thank you all.

                        Comment

                        • tfischer
                          Veteran Member
                          • Jul 2003
                          • 2349
                          • Plymouth (Minneapolis), MN, USA.
                          • BT3100

                          #13
                          I'm in MN and have a nearly 10yo deck I put in myself, with composite wood (ChoiceDek from Lowes). I have to say it isn't perfect either. Ours was involved in a class-action lawsuit over its tendency to mildew... we got a bottle of cleaner out of the deal <shrug>. It never did look like wood, more like concrete, but after 10 years it's held up better than a wood one would have I guess, without ever having to stain or sand it (I pressure wash it occasionally). So I guess I can't complain.

                          Cost for the deck was probably 2x what pressure-treated would have cost... and I used PT for everything but the decking and railings. No labor cost as I did it myself.

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