I was ripping a piece of pegboard with a side of pressed against the fence. I was standing to the side while ripping it and finished the rip just fine. Before I turned off the saw, like an idiot, I stepped in front of the blade and reached for the piece between the blade and the fence. As soon as I did so I could see in slow motion the piece got pushed against the blade and started flying at me. It hit me square in the chest. I thought it would hurt more, but surprisingly it wasn't at all. I guess I'm lucky it's just a piece of pegboard. I'm not sure if I should be proud or be scared!!!
My first kick back
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I didn't have it on, although I should be using it. I have the supplied blade guard that has the splitter and anti-kickback blades. I found using it to be cumbersome. I would love to just have the splitter with a removable anti-kickback blades. I saw the Sharkguard one and I likeit, but it costs more than what I paid for my BT :/ so I'm hesitant of getting it.Comment
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You are fortunate. How much is your ER co-pay? Compare that to a Shark Guard. All of a sudden the Shark is a bargain.Donate to my Tour de Cure
marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©
Head servant of the forum
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The SG might seem a little pricey, but I have been using them for a while now. Money well spent.Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.Comment
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It seems like a majority of the time kickback is mentioned, the blade guard and/or riving knife is off. I just don't understand why so many people take them off. Except on dadoes & the like when you simply can't perform the cut with the guard on, I've seldom found the guard to be an issue. Am I missing something here? Why do so many people find blade guards to be cumbersome, in the way, etc? Even the stock guard & riving knife can be removed or installed in about 5 minutes.I didn't have it on, although I should be using it. I have the supplied blade guard that has the splitter and anti-kickback blades. I found using it to be cumbersome. I would love to just have the splitter with a removable anti-kickback blades. I saw the Sharkguard one and I likeit, but it costs more than what I paid for my BT :/ so I'm hesitant of getting it.Comment
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I'm a bit impatient, so that 5 minutes seem like an eternity. Right now I'm trying to practice and learn wood working by doing small upgrade to the work bench (making drawers at the moment). I tend to make many measurement mistakes so I constantly have to switch from cross cutting and dado-ing (i guess).It seems like a majority of the time kickback is mentioned, the blade guard and/or riving knife is off. I just don't understand why so many people take them off. Except on dadoes & the like when you simply can't perform the cut with the guard on, I've seldom found the guard to be an issue. Am I missing something here? Why do so many people find blade guards to be cumbersome, in the way, etc? Even the stock guard & riving knife can be removed or installed in about 5 minutes.
I have read from many sources that a splitter would eliminate the majority of kick backs. Perhaps I could make a splitter out of sheet metal that would sit just below the top of the blade. That would allow me to cross cut and dado at the same time.Comment
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You don't want to leave the splitter in place with a Dado stack installed...
Standard blade is 10", recommended dado blade is 6"... Bit of a mismatch there.Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.Comment
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Glad you weren't injured too bad. You got a good discount on that lesson.I didn't have it on, although I should be using it. I have the supplied blade guard that has the splitter and anti-kickback blades. I found using it to be cumbersome. I would love to just have the splitter with a removable anti-kickback blades. I saw the Sharkguard one and I likeit, but it costs more than what I paid for my BT :/ so I'm hesitant of getting it.
I have one old aluminum riving knife here that you can have. It is one of the original polished knives. Long obsolete. It has been used too, so not as pretty as a new one would have been back then. Just shoot me an email or PM if interested.LeeComment
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Not sure what you mean here (I seem to be in that mode a lot lately), when you said you might be able to "crosscut and dado at the same time" ?
Regarding your kickback and what I see as a very grave practice.... You should NEVER reach between the blade and the fence!!!!
That is a surefire way of loosing a finger or worse. Believe me, I watched my father do that 50-plus years ago.
First thing you need to do, if you haven't already, is to make yourself a proper push stick. If you already have a push stick, then you better start using it. Personally, I didn't even turn on my table saw until I had a push stick.
Second, unless you are dadoing, keep that blade guard in place. To not use it is just plain dangerous, especially for someone just beginning. If you are going to learn and want to continue to enjoy woodworking... you need to do it right and you need to keep all of your fingers intack.
A friendly and well meant suggestion,
CWSThink it Through Before You Do!Comment
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With a 10" blade, you can crosscut, resaw, cut corners for splines and rabbet cut with the riving knife in place when it is just below the blade height. Basically any non through cuts other than a plunge cut. Those are inherently dangerous anyway.I'm a bit impatient, so that 5 minutes seem like an eternity. Right now I'm trying to practice and learn wood working by doing small upgrade to the work bench (making drawers at the moment). I tend to make many measurement mistakes so I constantly have to switch from cross cutting and dado-ing (i guess).
I have read from many sources that a splitter would eliminate the majority of kick backs. Perhaps I could make a splitter out of sheet metal that would sit just below the top of the blade. That would allow me to cross cut and dado at the same time.LeeComment
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After 16 stitches in my thumb, I bought the sharkguard. It was a bargain after paying the hospital and doctor (no insurance at the time). It comes off from time to time for certain cuts, but is quick and easy to remove and replace. You ought to reconsider as it will be a wise investment. Just saying.I didn't have it on, although I should be using it. I have the supplied blade guard that has the splitter and anti-kickback blades. I found using it to be cumbersome. I would love to just have the splitter with a removable anti-kickback blades. I saw the Sharkguard one and I likeit, but it costs more than what I paid for my BT :/ so I'm hesitant of getting it.
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