Need advice on "scanning" with a digital camera

[Alex Franke]

I have some old photos to scan. They're pasted into a large, bound, 100-year-old book and I don't want to take it apart. Because of this, I dont' think the scanner will do the trick.

It seems like someone here mentioned "scanning" by taking digital photographs before, so I was hoping I could get some advice from the experts.

Any advice on how to best accomplish this? Lighting, setup, etc?

I think with my camera (8MP) I can get roughly 250-300dpi "scans" if I take one page per frame or higher if I take them a little closer...

[Ed62]

You'll want to make sure the photos are as flat as possible when copying. Put the camera on a tripod, and make sure you are dead center with your lens to the picture.

As for lighting, set your lights at 45 degrees to the photo, one on each side. If needed, you can get polarizing sheets to place over your lights, to use with a polarizing filter on the camera. This will eliminate or greatly reduce glare.

You might also have good results using natural light outside. I've had very good results this way. Polarizing filters are also good to use in this case, if needed. You can often move the placement of the photos to get rid of glare when using sunlight, thereby eliminating the need for filters.

It might be best to use a self timer to release the shutter. This will eliminate any shaking caused by pressing the shutter yourself. When you're that close to the subject, just a little shake will mess things up for you.

Digital film is cheap. Make a bunch of test shots, and keep notes on your setup.

Ed

[mpc]

Not having done this myself (yet), but based on scanning some old format negatives recently (oddball sizes by today's standards) what I'd try is:

1: get a piece of glass that'll cover the pages of your source material to hold them dead flat. That'll help the camera. Have a good rag (or glasses wipe cloth) to clean fingerprints off the glass.

2: A tripod that you can hang the camera from. Most tripods allow the camera mounting stalk/post (whatever it's called) to be cranked all the way out and then re-installed from below. You want the camera centered and lined up straight with your source material to minimize distortions.

3: Lighting. Light from multiple sides of the tripod assembly if possible. But make sure it doesn't glare off the glass. For some older photos, fluorescent works better than incandescent bulbs... experiment a little.

4: brush off dust, or use a small squeeze-bulb to blast air. Saves photo editing work later.

Good luck.

mpc

edit: by the time I finished typing, Ed had posted pretty much the same thing... oh well.

[LCHIEN]

you will have the following problems that the scanner would not give you:

curved field of focus of the lens
work may not lie flat
perspective - unless you take the picture directly overhead you will have some perspective distortion
Barrel distortion - most camera lenses have it to some degree, but gets worse at max zoom or macro settings - makes a square look like a barrel (curved sides)
Lighting reflections and even-ness.

Some of the steps you can take to minimize problems:
two lights on the side at 45 degrees
Good macrophoto lens
Piece of plexiglass to lay over the book pages to make it lie flatter - if you use the right lighting as above it will minimize additional glare.
A copy stand (way, way better than a tripod for close-up and flat work) and remote release
Slow shutter speed to maximize depth of field (making the stand and remoote release a requirement).
Masking black cloth and lowered room lights to hide the camera so its reflections don't show in the plexiglas cover.
diffusers for the lights may help.

Good luck

[Ed62]

A copy stand (way, way better than a tripod for close-up and flat work)

I've copied hundreds of photos, using the old film type cameras. Loring's statement is true because you don't have to be so careful when you set the camera up. It pretty much automatically aligns everything, although a tripod will also give you excellent results, if your setup is done correctly.

I think I still have part of a copy stand I made out of black pipe and fittings. It worked great, and depending on how many photos you have to copy, it might be worth making one. If I can find it, I can post a picture of it if anyone is interested.

Ed

[phi1l]

In addition to the other excellent advice here. If your camera is a Cannon, use their ZoomBrowser EX software to remotely preview, adjust & operate the camera.

[sd]

Go to diybookscanner.org and you can find a lot of information on how to build a book scanner using digital cameras and also about software to process the images.

[Alex Franke]

Great info!

Ed, I'd love to see a picture if you have one.

In addition to the other excellent advice here. If your camera is a Cannon, use their ZoomBrowser EX software to remotely preview, adjust & operate the camera.

Huh? I have a Canon and had no idea that this kind of "remote control" was available... never even tried that software, but I suppose I should!

[Ed62]

Great info!

Ed, I'd love to see a picture if you have one.

I don't have a picture, but I'll see if I can find whatever is left of the copy stand, and take a pic or two. It'll at least give you an idea of what I used, and how it was made.

Ed

[phi1l]

Great info!

Ed, I'd love to see a picture if you have one.



Huh? I have a Canon and had no idea that this kind of "remote control" was available... never even tried that software, but I suppose I should!

Then you probably are unaware of CHDK too

Did you know that you could take pictures at 1/20,000 of a sec. with a PowerShot, or even take RAW mode pictures??

[LCHIEN]

there's a couple of threads from 2005 here on Copy stands, find it with the search function.

I can only add, that, if you do this kind of thing often, a nice copy stand will bring joy to you.
Commercial ones are not that expensive, they come is all sizes and styles.

[Ed62]

Alex,

Here is what I found in the garage. It hasn't been used in quite a few years, but it just needs a little TLC. Any questions?
The base is gone, as you can see. A thick piece of MDF should work fine.

The next pic shows an elbow, with 2 of the threads removed so it can slide up and down for adjustment.

The following pic is just a small bolt that will hold the flange in position, once set.

Next is where a 1/4 X 20 bolt goes. This is the "copy stand screw" which is the equivalent of a tripod screw, and attaches to your camera.


Ed

[Ed62]

I should have mentioned, the pipe used is 2" black pipe. The length is 36", and the short piece of pipe is 7 1/2" long. The board for mounting the camera is 7"X11". It was used for both a 35mm camera and a medium format.

Ed

[phrog]

Then you probably are unaware of CHDK too

Did you know that you could take pictures at 1/20,000 of a sec. with a PowerShot, or even take RAW mode pictures??

Thanks, phi1l. I had no idea that this existed.
Richard

[Alex Franke]

Thanks, phi1l. I had no idea that this existed.
Richard

Me either -- Mine's a Rebel XT though. I'll have to see if there are any hacks for that one.