Anybody friends with a Lincoln mechanic??

[Uncle Cracker]

Just taking a shot in the dark here, but I need some advice from a Lincoln mechanic (front suspension R&R issue on my '01 LS)... This job is tougher than it looked on the surface (even with the factory manual in hand). Figured it couldn't hurt to ask if anybody here is friends or family of one such person...

[cabinetman]

Just taking a shot in the dark here, but I need some advice from a Lincoln mechanic (front suspension R&R issue on my '01 LS)... This job is tougher than it looked on the surface (even with the factory manual in hand). Figured it couldn't hurt to ask if anybody here is friends or family of one such person...

I had a friend (that I haven't heard from in a year and a half), whose sister dated a guy that had a brother in law that worked on a Lincoln LS. Now, if he can't answer your questions I'd be very surprised. I've been surprised many times in my life. In fact, I'd be surprised if I still have my friends' phone number. But, for you, I'll look through my phone directories.

This may take a while as I have many and they aren't in any special order. What I mean to say is that each one is in order, but each directory has a different group of people. For example, one of them is a collection of subcontractors for all types of interior remodeling. Then I have one that is not quite an accurate alphabetical listing of materials suppliers.

So, you can see, since I don't have one dedicated to auto mechanics, I could have the phone number in any one of a few different directories. But, you may be in luck. I have an old Rolodex that I may have put my friends phone number, and I could have made a notation that his sister dated a guy that had a brother in law that worked on a Lincoln LS.

Get your questions together, in case I get lucky.
.

[TB Roye]

CAB

You are something else. So what you are saying is you don't have clue where the persons contact info is or who the person really is. That response sounded just like the one I got from my Congresswomen when I asked a question about the new health plan. Did you work for the Government at some point in your life?

Tom

[Cody.h]

Well I might could help...I'm just a lowly service advisor at a lincoln dealership....you havin lower ball-joint issues?

[cabinetman]

Did you work for the Government at some point in your life?

Tom

Yeah, sure did...late 60's. Carried a gun too (actually more than one), knife, and at times a parachute.
.

[Uncle Cracker]

Well I might could help...I'm just a lowly service advisor at a lincoln dealership....you havin lower ball-joint issues?

Thanks, Cody... No, I already changed the steering knuckles to correct that problem, but now I'm dealing with the bushings on the sway bar (another notorious and widespread LS bugaboo). There are two bolts on the bracket holding the water valve for the heater that must be removed to get at the forward bolt on the passenger-side bushing clamp. The one on the side was not a problem, but the one on the top is practically inaccessible... I can barely even see one edge of it. I think I've got every kind of flex, offset, and obstruction wrench known to man, but I can't get anything on that bolt (and I'm really looking forward to putting the bolt back on!). I have the Ford Service Manual on CD, and it gives no clue how to get the bolt off (it's Diagram #A0001063, which doesn't do justice to how dug in that bolt really is). Is there some trick to it, or some tool I don't know about?

Just so you know, it's an early '01 V8 Sport (87K). I am replacing the whole sway bar (only way it comes now), but this bottleneck has got me pulling my hair out. I'd like to get my hands on the guy who designed this car!

[cgallery]

Just so you know, it's an early '01 V8 Sport (87K). I am replacing the whole sway bar (only way it comes now), but this bottleneck has got me pulling my hair out. I'd like to get my hands on the guy who designed this car!

Someone once told me the LS was basically a Jaguar. Is that true?

[Uncle Cracker]

Someone once told me the LS was basically a Jaguar. Is that true?

Yup... Under the skin, the LS and Jag S-type share a lotta hardware.

[TB Roye]

Cab did the same during the 60's but they could't get me to jump out of a pefectly good plane. I didn't like the warranty on pack either. I have yet to figure out how to change the 2 rear spark plugs on LOML's Expedition, The dealer wants $600 to change plugs. So I will change the other 6 at 100k miles and let some one else worry about it.

Tom

[cgallery]

Please take this all w/ a grain of salt, I don't know carp about cars but thought I'd Google and see if any of this helps.

UC, I assume you've read this thread:

http://www.lincolnforums.com/forums/...showtopic=4079

First, they list an aftermarket bushing that can be used w/o having to replace the entire bar. I don't know how much more of a PITA it is to change the entire bar. The part they list is Energy Suspension part #9.5171.

Message #7 lists the steps for replacing bar w/ bushings, the guy says he is quoting the service manual. Is that the same that you have? Step #3 says "hoist the vehicle." Would that drop the bar in relation to whatever is above it so you can get a wrench in there?

Message #17 (2nd page) lists a technique for installing the Energy bushings in about an hour, but requires grinding a lip off them. BUT, it kinda sounds like the original bushings don't have a lip? In which case this grinding just makes the new bushings same as old?

[Uncle Cracker]

First, they list an aftermarket bushing that can be used w/o having to replace the entire bar. I don't know how much more of a PITA it is to change the entire bar. The part they list is Energy Suspension part #9.5171.

Yep, I read that. Almost the same work involved just to change the bushings, as the rod will just slip out through the left wheel well once the bushings are loose. The original rod has a textured surface made to retain grease, and will chew up an aftermarket bushing that isn't mated perfectly to it. Those from ES are "universal" units. (That's why Ford now sells the new rods with the bushings molded right on.)

Message #7 lists the steps for replacing bar w/ bushings, the guy says he is quoting the service manual. Is that the same that you have? Step #3 says "hoist the vehicle." Would that drop the bar in relation to whatever is above it so you can get a wrench in there?

Yeah, same manual, but the bar actually rides above the frame, so it doesn't "drop" (great design ). Hoisting is so you can get underneath and to take the weight of the vehicle off the suspension components. I'm hoisted...

Message #17 (2nd page) lists a technique for installing the Energy bushings in about an hour, but requires grinding a lip off them. BUT, it kinda sounds like the original bushings don't have a lip? In which case this grinding just makes the new bushings same as old?

This guy's workaround was to leave the difficult bolts in, bend up the original bracket (not easy, these things are thick), and try to grind up the aftermarket bushing to make it fit the OEM bracket (instead of using the brackets that came with the new bushings). Problem is that, if you grind the lips off the bushings, there is really nothing left to keep them from squirting out the sides of the brackets once they are greased up and under load... The original bushings do indeed have lips. He was proud that he had survived for 5000 miles that way, but I'd like to go a bit longer.

Thanks for the research and the heads-up, though. I did consider the same info myself. But I never want to have to do this job again!

[cgallery]

Did you see this thread at Edmunds? Seems like some good info on things that have to be removed:

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0fa028/0

Message #38 makes the work sound scary:

Here is goes:

Remove both front wheels, drop the passenger side shock and spring assy by unbolting the 3 bolts at the top of the shock tower, remove bolts from both driver and passenger side lower control arms as they are attached to the steel front crossmember, then remove the steel crossmember. Take the sway bar out from the passenger side (the lowering of the spring/shock assy on this side was to provide enough working room to enable this). Watch out for the lower radiator hose assy.. don't bash it getting the sway bar in/out.

Installation is reverse of removal. (Ahahaha, slap me.)

Make marks for all the positions of the suspension pieces you are removing, in the hope of retaining the suspension alignment you had before the job. It seems like I was able to keep my alignment roughly the same as before. I should take it ddown to the tire shop and have the front end realigned though.

I recommend a saturday to remove the bar and a sunday to replace it. Take it slow. This job is a pain in the arse, as components are packaged tightly/stupidly around the swaybar.

I didn't do the new links.. they (in the end) had nothing to do with the squeeky/clunking I used to experience. In fact; when I almost had the old bar out, I moved it up and down... and there was that familiar sound of the bar squeeking/clunking against the torched stock sway bar bushings/brackets.

In retrospect, if I were able to obtain just the new bushings.. I would recommend just doing the bushings. The job would be ALOT easier, BUT they would eventually fail again.

[Uncle Cracker]

OMG! This guy took out the whole front end! And a frame cross-member too, with the engine, radiator and everything else up there hanging over his head?

Lordy, I sure hope this job doesn't come down to that...

That would SUCK

Thanks for the info, though. I'm gonna move some more stuff around in the engine compartment in the morning, hoping that I can reach and fish that water valve bolt out from above, and finish up by the book. Positive Mental Attitude... Positive... Calm Thoughts... Ohmmmmmmm...

[cgallery]

Some of the messages I saw seemed to indicate dealers charge about $500 in labor for the work. I guess that would be about five hours work. Which seems in keeping with what this guy is describing for an experienced mechanic with every tool at his disposal.

Here's to hoping you find a shortcut (sucks down some gin and tonic).

[Uncle Cracker]

Me too. My local dealer is a crook (as in $1500 for an A/C compressor when all it needed was a $10 Schraeder valve, and I told them so going in). I can't pull in there for a cup of coffee without dropping a grand. So, I do most of the work myself any more, and drive to another city if I really need a dealer involved, although most of them are keeping their doors open on service revenue these days. I know they gotta do something, and some of them are good people, but I can't afford to pay for it all myself...