And I Thought My Original Plan Was Expensive

[crokett]

I need to run 2" rain tight conduit from the old panel to the new. My current plan is a Meyer's hub to 2" PVC threaded male fitting to expansion fitting to another threaded fitting to meyer's hub. I don't have a pipe threader to thread 2" pipe. Maybe I should look at renting one. I saw the liquid tight 3/4" ones at HD and looked for 2" ones:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/liq...o-15?op=search

Talk about sticker shock! I am going to call the electrical place tomorrow and see what their price is.

[Ed62]

One of my boys is a licensed electrician, and he buys from Grainger quite often. I can't believe the price of a lot of the things he buys.

Ed

[Tom Slick]

Don't ever shop Grainger if price is an issue, shop Grainger because they have it. They are quite proud of their inventory.

[cabinetman]

You might try here. They may or may not have what you want, and they may sell walk up.
.

[crokett]

Thanks Cabman. I also looked online at a tool rental place and they rent a pipe threader for 20 bucks for 4 hours. I already know the other various parts will cost at least that much if I did it piecemeal. The pipe threader will thread the metal pipe and it will look a lot more professional so I will call them tomorrow. If that doesn't pan out I will call Johnstone.

[Mr__Bill]

I am confused, but then that's nothing new, can you not just use plastic?

Bill,

another thought, if you know the lengths the BORG will cut and thread pipe for you, or is that just water pipe?

[crokett]

I am confused, but then that's nothing new, can you not just use plastic?

Bill,

another thought, if you know the lengths the BORG will cut and thread pipe for you, or is that just water pipe?

The fittings that would let me use plastic are the ones I linked to and apparently cost 90 bucks apiece. I will call the electrical place tomorrow. I didn't know the BORG will thread pipe. I will ask them about it this week. Thanks for the tip.

[master53yoda]

the fittings that you are showing are flexible conduit fittings you can use pvc pipe and glue fittings as long as you are running 4 conductors.

you can bend the PVC by heating it in a BBQ bending it to the desired curves and allowingit to cool. heat the BBq up and shut it off before putting the pipe in it and it won't burn it. the only fittings you should need are the male TAs and possibly some 90 box elbows.

[crokett]

Art, the problem is I have to drill my own field knockouts. As per the inspector since they are not below the breaker bus I need something water tight. Standard PVC fittings are not AFIK. Inspector said Meyers hub but then I would either need to thread metal pipe or use a male threaded PVC adapter to PVC. far as I know my options are either the meyers hub or the liquid tite I linked to. At least at the BORG, the liquid tights they have in 3/4" size like what I linked to say you can put rigid conduit in them. If I use the Meyers, I prefer threading the metal conduit even if it is slightly more expensive since it looks more professional than trying to piecemeal in PVC.

[billwmeyer]

Here my local Ace Hardware will thread pipe also.

Bill

[woodturner]

Art, the problem is I have to drill my own field knockouts. As per the inspector since they are not below the breaker bus I need something water tight.

If the joints are made carefully, PVC can be made water tight - it would not work for water piping if it could not be made water tight. The issue will be getting the ends water tight, not the joints in the pipe.


Don't know if it is an option for you or will help in your situation, but I like to use direct bury cable in PVC conduit. If the conduit does get wet, the cable is still OK - and the conduit still facilitates replacement and provides physical protection.

[Mr__Bill]

I thought a standard PVC fitting with an O ring between the fitting and the metal housing was considered water tight. Perhaps that's just old school.


Bill.

[crokett]

Lets not start another argument guys. I don't need to bend any PVC. This is a straight run 20" or so long. I just need to make sure it is waterproof. The electrical supply houses here don't sell the 2" fitting I linked to so I am going to go with the Meyers hubs. I called a couple Ace places, none of them thread conduit. If HD doesn't I will rent one for a couple hours. The 20 bucks is worth it so that the job looks professionally done. My only other choice is male threaded PVC adapters into the Meyers but I think that would look hokey.

[gjat]

Crokett,
You can use standard PVC male adapters and gasketed lock nuts which are the lock nuts with a rubber ring inside that makes it waterproof, assuming you are entering the bottom of the disconnect. They're used for both pvc and rgs conduit. Here's a linky http://www.thefind.com/garden/info-sealing-locknut Going into a disconnect with pvc is code, using the right stuff. I wouldn't think you have to use a Meyers hub. The second alternative is compression fittings for rigid steel conduit so you don't have to thread them. I'm not 100% sure about code on those as we find it just as easy to thread.

[crokett]

Thanks gjat. I will source those too. I was looking at the meyers hub because that is what the inspector suggested so I know that will pass. I am entering the side above the breaker bus, that is why it has to be water proof. If it is on the side below the bus or at the bottom, it does not have to be waterproof as per the inspector, but I would do so anyway. I realize the location is not ideal, but after fussing with this for two weeks, it is the best option I think I have.