Paper

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • cork58
    Established Member
    • Jan 2006
    • 365
    • Wasilla, AK, USA.
    • BT3000

    #1

    Paper

    Was wondering what is the best paper to transfer plans to the work area? I see alot of choice's out there! Anyone have any good choices. I do scroll work as well as cabinets. Help!
    Cork,

    Dare to dream and dare to fail.
  • cwsmith
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 2810
    • NY Southern Tier, USA.
    • BT3100-1

    #2
    I think it would depend on your printing mechanism. Some papers simply don't work well with an ink jet printer. For instance, I spent years on the drawing board and know that "vellum" is absolutely terrific. It's durable, won't fragment or dust, and it's translucent qualities make it a perfect paper for drawing patterns or designs in pencil or ink and if you want to trace/transfer you simply graphite the back. It also works well with rubber cement and spray adhesive, and thinner doesn't cause it to shred. But, inkjet fluid won't properly dry and the printer output may smear.

    Coated or hot-press bond papers, work well with inkjet printers, but have a tendency to be difficult to remove if rubber or spray cemented, as it shreds and and tears easily.

    I'd suggest checking some of the scroll-saw books or magazines. I'm not sure if Mike's Workshop has any recommendations, but here is his web site (great scroll-saw blade supplier) http://www.mikesworkshop.com/index.htm

    CWS
    Think it Through Before You Do!

    Comment

    • cabinetman
      Gone but not Forgotten RIP
      • Jun 2006
      • 15216
      • So. Florida
      • Delta

      #3
      Originally posted by cork58
      Was wondering what is the best paper to transfer plans to the work area? I see alot of choice's out there! Anyone have any good choices. I do scroll work as well as cabinets. Help!

      I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but I use the brown kraft type paper on a roll. It comes in a variety of lengths and a common width is 36". It's dirt cheap and survives a lot of handling. I use it for making large drawings some full size, 1:1. It can also be used in conjunction with carbon paper for transferring images drawn to the workpiece. For future reference, I just roll it back up and stash it.

      Comment

      • LCHIEN
        Super Moderator
        • Dec 2002
        • 22050
        • Katy, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 vintage 1999

        #4
        Originally posted by cwsmith
        I think it would depend on your printing mechanism. Some papers simply don't work well with an ink jet printer. For instance, I spent years on the drawing board and know that "vellum" is absolutely terrific. It's durable, won't fragment or dust, and it's translucent qualities make it a perfect paper for drawing patterns or designs in pencil or ink and if you want to trace/transfer you simply graphite the back. It also works well with rubber cement and spray adhesive, and thinner doesn't cause it to shred. But, inkjet fluid won't properly dry and the printer output may smear.

        Coated or hot-press bond papers, work well with inkjet printers, but have a tendency to be difficult to remove if rubber or spray cemented, as it shreds and and tears easily.

        I'd suggest checking some of the scroll-saw books or magazines. I'm not sure if Mike's Workshop has any recommendations, but here is his web site (great scroll-saw blade supplier) http://www.mikesworkshop.com/index.htm

        CWS
        that's the first thing that came to mind, was Vellum.
        I use regular copier paper and a Xerographic type laser printer when putting scroll patterns to use on wood, use the 3M spray adhesive because i want it to stick everywhere and not buckle on the fine patterns details, but I find its real hard to remove - as CWS says.

        One good technique is to reverse print onto 20# copier paper, using a laser printer.
        then you can use an iron to transfer some or much of the printing to the wood. This works because the laser printer charges the paper with the image, whcih then attracts powderd carbon toner which is then melted or fused to the paper.
        When you heat it with an iron, the toner melts again and the pressure transfers it to the wood. Set the printer to print darker, this trnasfers more toner to the paper. Try it, it actually works quite well.
        Laser printers, nice ones, are made by Brother and cost under $100 and cost about 1/4 what it costs for inkjet printing.
        If you don't have a laser, most office copiers work the same way (toner fused to paper) so you can copy a inkjet print and then use the copy to transfer to wood. Just don't forget to print a reverse image (this is an option in some print programs or you have to flip the image in photoshop).
        Last edited by LCHIEN; 10-08-2007, 06:27 AM.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

        Comment

        • gsmittle
          Veteran Member
          • Aug 2004
          • 2793
          • St. Louis, MO, USA.
          • BT 3100

          #5
          Originally posted by LCHIEN
          Just don't forget to print a reverse image (this is an option in some print programs or you have to flip the image in photoshop).
          Flipped is the operative word, here. A reversed image would be white on a black background, which would use a LOT of toner! DAMHIKT

          g.
          Smit

          "Be excellent to each other."
          Bill & Ted

          Comment

          Working...