Log Resaw

[Bill in Buena Park]

As followup to my review on the Delta 28-276 bandsaw, I wanted to post my resaw results after picking up a trial 1/2in 4tpi blade. Since I ultimately wanted to be able to slice branch logs into boards for box projects and such in addition to the traditional resaw of thick timber into thinner stock, I decided to do the log slice test, and built a log slicing jig (picture below) that I recall seeing somewhere in the past. Very simple design based on using the miter slot on the table.

The log for my trial was a somewhat-seasoned (6 months?) segment of branch, about 5-3/4 at its thickest, from a camphor tree. I believe camphor qualifies as hardwood, and even with my cheap trial blade (CM from my local Sears), it did a very good job slicing off my boards - not fast, since I could tell when trying to overfeed the saw would start to bog down a little (on the thickest part.)

I am TOTALLY JAZZED with the results. Since the wood was subtantially dry internally, I took the rough-cut boards to my jointer and then planer, and WOW - I had no idea how nice a grain camphor has! The pictures just don't do it justice.

One note about dust collection. When resawing lumber of this thickness, such a huge volume of sawdust is created that my shopvac, formerly having kept up with every other tool in my shop, just could not pull completely. I ended up with a fair amount of dust in the bottom section of the saw, and totally caking up the lower blade guide blocks and bearing assembly. However, the shopvac did fine pulling the dust from typical cutting activities (curves and such in 3/4 to 2in stock.)

So in closing the review, the 28-276 is a solid, affordable, expandable saw with good quality and power, definitely a worthwhile addition to the shop. For what I paid, I would buy this saw again in a heartbeat.

[Pappy]

That is some beautiful wood, Bill. That is one of the jigs I need to build.

[scmhogg]

Bill,

I have several small logs that have been aging in my garage for years. A couple of questions about your jig, if you don't mind.

How do you attach the log to the jig? Why is the slider raised off the base?

TY

Steve

[Pappy]

My guess on the space under the slider is that the strip under the open (right) end has T nuts set from underneath.

[Bill in Buena Park]

My guess on the space under the slider is that the strip under the open (right) end has T nuts set from underneath.

Steve, Don has it right. In my original thoughts, I was going to only use the thin hardboard for the bottom (to maximize the stock cutting height), so I countersunk my t-bolts into the 1x strip that runs along the back, which required the slider to be raised instead of the normal "L". Before gluing the strip onto the hardboard, however, I found a thin piece of MDF to add strength, which I laminated to the hardboard, and glued the 1x to the MDF. Shave's about about 7/16in off my cutting height.

The log is screwed to the fence (through the fence.) That's it. Its recommended that you attach the raw log and shave off one side to use as a flat surface, detach log and remount with flat surface mating to jig base, then refasten log to the fence.

[dbhost]

That is some beautiful wood, Bill. That is one of the jigs I need to build.

Mines halfway done. I have had the lumber cut and stacked in the corner of my shop long for a couple of months... I am very happy to see someone is making this jig work so well...

I have a mess of Ike blowdown oak in my back yard that I need to slice up...

[Fred Friar]

lower blade guides

Did you ever think about the fact that the lower guide has nothing to do with the function of the band saw It is the top guide that does the work. Fortune (in Canada) wrote a good piece about band saws and pointed out that many band saws do not have lower guides in the first place. All the fancy fences that "correct" for blade drift are providing a crutch instead of fixing the problem. I have found that most often the drift can be corrected by altering the path of the blade over the top wheel.

[Bill in Buena Park]

To complete this phase of my resaw journey on the stock saw, I decided to take advantage of the Woodcraft 20% off sale on Timberwolf blades. I picked up a PC 3/4in 3tpi to compare with the 1/2in blade I've been using, and MAN OH MAN what a difference. I sliced up another 6in log tonight, and the cut quality and speed were SO much nicer. Now I'm just looking for old logs to cut up, just for the pleasure of finding the hidden treasure.

[BrazosJake]

Resawing thick stock is dusty work. I cut a 4" port in the lower right cabinet of my Ridgid for my 1 hp dc. I'd guess its catching 70-80%. I removed the factory port (it was just in the way), which is now on my router table fence. I still need something directly below the table, but dunno if my DC has enough umph to split hoses.

[dbhost]

Yep, my resaw sled is still sitting there as a simple piece of ply with a miter slot cleat glued & screwed to the bottom. I need to get off my tail and finish this up. But every piece of ply scrap big enough has ended up as part of a giant kitty condo project.

I'm gonna be seriously ticked if that cat doesn't love this thing I'm building for her...

[SARGE..g-47]

Did you ever think about the fact that the lower guide has nothing to do with the function of the band saw It is the top guide that does the work. Fortune (in Canada) wrote a good piece about band saws and pointed out that many band saws do not have lower guides in the first place. All the fancy fences that "correct" for blade drift are providing a crutch instead of fixing the problem. I have found that most often the drift can be corrected by altering the path of the blade over the top wheel.

On the lower guides not have much to do with things.. Yep.. For that matter I tried backing off the upper guides and the rear thrust bearing with a BS that is tuned well and the proper beam strenght applied by the springs. At this point I back off further than recommended on both the left and right uppers and the rear thrust bearing. It will still re-saw pretty well without close tolerances recommended.

You mentioned some band saws with no lower bearings.. I have seen some older industrial BS's (ususully in 36" and above) without lower and upper bearing. Allowing for drift is indeed putting a band-aid on a cut that requires stitches.