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There has been much discussion about how to joint with a router. The often made assumption is that one does not have a jointer, thus requires use of a router for this task. I do have a jointer, but still edge joint with a router for long boards. I find it easier to control, and sometimes quicker. Moving large or long stock over a 6" jointer isn't always an accurate process.
My method involves 4 items.
- A router - doesn't really matter what one, but runnout is a concern here.
- A flush trim router bit - a shear angle or spiral for curly stock.
- A pattern bit - for wide stock, as explained below.
- A straight edge - to guide the bearing of the above 2 bits.
My router of choice is the Bosch 1617 in the fixed base. Any router will do, one with DC is a good choice for obvious reasons. The key to this technique is having a nice straight edge to follow. I use a MDF shelf from the BORG. The reasoning is that it was cheap (5$), reliably straight (factory sliced), and 8' long. This shelf is also 1' wide.
The next step is to determine if the guide should be on the top or on the bottom. One nice aspect of using it on top is that the weight of it helps to flatten out the board if there is a little waver to it. Also you will be clamping the edge onto it, and it will act as a caul to this end. I will use the guide on the bottom when the board to be jointed is not very wide, or is of a material that will require me to use a spiral cutter.
When the MDF is on top, I use a pattern bit, which has the bearing near the shank, when on the bottom I use a flush trim bit. The first photo below is the shear angle flush trim that is used for less than straight grained materials. For seriously curly materials I use a spiral flush trim, though I avoid it if possible as those bits tend to be pricey.
As you can see in the 2nd photo, I expose as small an amount of material along one edge as possible, while having it exposed along the entire run of the straight edge. I then clamp it into place in several locations. Once done, rout between the clamps, cutting the material there straight. Then move the clamps one at a time, keeping registration to the MDF, and rout the parts missed in the first pass.
Once this is done, you can edge glue these boards together. One additional consideration is that the router bit will likely not be a perfect 90 degrees to the base. To compensate for this error, rout one board face down, then next face up, alternating as you go. This will cause this error to be mathematically eliminated.
I hope this is helpful.
Keith
My method involves 4 items.
- A router - doesn't really matter what one, but runnout is a concern here.
- A flush trim router bit - a shear angle or spiral for curly stock.
- A pattern bit - for wide stock, as explained below.
- A straight edge - to guide the bearing of the above 2 bits.
My router of choice is the Bosch 1617 in the fixed base. Any router will do, one with DC is a good choice for obvious reasons. The key to this technique is having a nice straight edge to follow. I use a MDF shelf from the BORG. The reasoning is that it was cheap (5$), reliably straight (factory sliced), and 8' long. This shelf is also 1' wide.
The next step is to determine if the guide should be on the top or on the bottom. One nice aspect of using it on top is that the weight of it helps to flatten out the board if there is a little waver to it. Also you will be clamping the edge onto it, and it will act as a caul to this end. I will use the guide on the bottom when the board to be jointed is not very wide, or is of a material that will require me to use a spiral cutter.
When the MDF is on top, I use a pattern bit, which has the bearing near the shank, when on the bottom I use a flush trim bit. The first photo below is the shear angle flush trim that is used for less than straight grained materials. For seriously curly materials I use a spiral flush trim, though I avoid it if possible as those bits tend to be pricey.
As you can see in the 2nd photo, I expose as small an amount of material along one edge as possible, while having it exposed along the entire run of the straight edge. I then clamp it into place in several locations. Once done, rout between the clamps, cutting the material there straight. Then move the clamps one at a time, keeping registration to the MDF, and rout the parts missed in the first pass.
Once this is done, you can edge glue these boards together. One additional consideration is that the router bit will likely not be a perfect 90 degrees to the base. To compensate for this error, rout one board face down, then next face up, alternating as you go. This will cause this error to be mathematically eliminated.
I hope this is helpful.
Keith