I don't have a clue about what I'm doing...

[Ken Weaver]

...but it went from square to round and I used every chisel in the set. Now I've got to go back to the book and figure out how to get the whatever it is off the bloody lathe. I have no clue as to how you guys post pics of your first turnings of complete boxes, pens, cups and bowls that look absolutely perfect! I must be missing something

[Stytooner]

Sand, finish and part it off and you're there. Looks great.

[BostonBullit]

looks pretty good.....

I'm new at this stuff too but what I do to get the piece off the lathe is keep stabbing at it with one of the pointy things until it flies off. adds a bit more excitement to the shop sessions! [)]

[leehljp]

What are you makin? Looks good! But BE CAREFUL - there are microscopic contagions in that dust and it gets into the bloodstream FAST! Turned saw dust is a first cousin to TS sawdust and is just as habit forming, but has its own characteristics. It causes you to dream in turns instead of linear motion.

As much as people think it can be caught from another person, it can't. It is really is from the wood! Not even a dust mask will help! I'll bet you are already hooked!

[Whaler]

Ken

You are off to a good start, just keep at it. The more you do the easier it will become.

As for the pictures, we don't post the bad ones.

[gerti]

Awesome! Looks like a pretty good canine retrieval training device to me!

[RayintheUK]

quote:Originally posted by Ken Weaver

....... and figure out how to get the whatever it is off the bloody lathe.

Ken,

You've a few choices - firstly, simply dismount the piece and remove the excess with a conventional saw or with a fine blade in a CMS or bandsaw. The downside is that you need to support the piece correctly to get an accurate cut by hand or with a CMS and if using a bandsaw you MUST use a V-block to prevent the piece from getting dragged into the blade.

Secondly, after turning to as small a diameter as you're comfortable with at both ends, lock the headstock (use the indexing pin if fitted) and saw through with a fine blade - Japanese pull-saw or similar. You'll need to take care to get the cut absolutely vertical. Whatever you do, don't try to use a saw with the lathe running, even at low speed!

Thirdly, part it off with a fine, sharp parting tool. This method can initially cause some "what will happen when it finally parts?" anxiety, [?] but - in truth - the piece will just drop slightly if you're parting off at the headstock end, as the drive will be severed and you'll easily be able to catch it. The small nib at the other end can then be pared off with a sharp chisel.

The parting tool needs to be used one-handed, with the free hand ready to field the workpiece. My preferred method is to take an overhand grip on the blade of the tool, forefinger pointing along the top edge, with the handle running underneath my forearm for extra control. Use as low a speed as you can and make sure that the parting tool is really sharp to prevent tearing, especially on softwoods (parting tools are not the best of tools for shoulder cutting).

HTH - and well done for your progress so far!

Ray.

[Ken Massingale]

Nice coves, Ken. You're hooked! No 'turning' back.....;&gt
I'll be over soon with the sander and a bushel of blanks for you.
ken

[Ken Weaver]

Thanks Ray - that is really helpful, you're right about the "what will happen syndrome," the blank is still on the lathe, will take it off tonight unless I add some more cuts.

Ken - catch ya when you show up, appreciate your help.