Kerploosh!

[Brian G]

I'll save the backstory for a different thread, but last summer I bought a mini lathe at auction. I had to finish the matched bookcase project before I let myself even turn it on and take it for a spin. Well, after that project was done, and the requisite lathe stand (another story for a different thread!), I was ready to play with it. The last time I did any work on a lathe was three decades ago in high school, so I'm nothing more than a novice. How exciting!

I turned the following pens in the order they are presented left to right:



I used Woodcraft pen kit #123052, which Woodcraft offered as a 10-pack for $20 earlier this year. I figured if I was going to mess up learning, I couldn't do it cheaper than $2 per kit and whatever came out of my offcut bin. For all pens, I finished them with StickFast's CA kit. I used MicroMesh sanding pads after the CA for all but the far right pen. For that one, I skipped the MicroMesh just to see what it would look like.

I had the most trouble with getting the nibs to match the barrel. I was successful with the clip and cap every time, so the next run I will flip-flop the nib and clip ends. I had mixed results with getting the center ring matched nicely.

I used a cobbled together blank drilling set-up, and a quick grip clamp as a pen press. I think I'm going to spring for a good pen blank vise and a pen press. I could make them, but sometimes it's nice to go with a commercial product.

Left to right:

Red oak: This was a 100% first learning on everything, so I went with the cheapest and plainest blank. My goal was to learn how to hold the lathe chisels, keep the shape simple, and get a smooth finish. I won on all three, but I over-trimmed the nib end of the barrel, so it doesn't fit tight. The quick grip method of pressing doesn't leave much room for fine tuning the depth of pressing the twist mechanism.

Walnut: My goal was to see how skinny I could make it without gouging it to the brass tube. Winner, winner, t-bone dinner! The finish. . . well, not so much. I think I rushed between the thin CA and medium CA when I sanded at 400 grit, and it ended up looking a little cloudy. After that error, I quit sanding between the thin CA and medium CA.

Paduk: Of all of the pens, I like the shape of this one the best. For this one, I should have used a few more applications of thin CA to fill in the pores. When I used the final polish, it accumulated in the pores and I simply can't get it all out. Live and learn.

Bubinga: By far the best of the bunch for fit and finish. I made this one for LOML, so it was to her specs for "feel".

Lyptus: This one was second to Bububinga for fit, but not finish. This one was another where I should have used more applications of thin CA to fill in the open grain. I can see milky striations from the polishing compound, but it's all consistent. Makes it look like it's supposed to be that way.

Mahogany: Please excuse the fat bottom. The finish is really nice, and the fit was good. Shape, well. . . nice try, Bri. A co-worker really liked it, and how it fit in the hand, so I gave it away.

Brazillian Cherry: I made this one for my dad. He said he liked a thicker pen, so I had that in mind. It's close in size and shape to the Bubinga pen, but the base is a little thinner and the taper is longer.

Woodpile Wormy Soft Maple. I hacked out a bunch of blanks from a chunk straight out of the wood pile. The blotches you see are the sawdust trails from whatever gnawed its way through. There also was a large hole left by the larval form, but you can't see it. I wasn't sure how deep it was going to go, which ended up being all the way to the brass tube. I sprinkled in some dust and chips, dribbled som CA in it, and packed in more dust. After scraping it smooth and sanding, it filled in nicely. I did have a few sawdust trails that didn't fill in as nicely. I really like the curl that shows. Sadly, there was something amiss with the twist mechanism that I didn't discover until I pressed it into the bottom barrel. I had to grunt to press the top half onto the twist mechanism. It too a vice and pliers to pull it apart. There's nothing wrong with the upper brass tube, so I have no idea what went wrong.

White Oak: This one is simple, and will ride around in my shirt pocket. I used a digital caliper to try to get the final sizing to match the hardware. Close, but not quite. I also skipped using the MicroMesh, and went right from the CA to the polish in the StickFast kit. I like the more satin finish, but I gravitate toward a softer finish for wood. I like wood that looks like wood, not a mirror.

Thanks for looking. I don't think this is something that I'll go all-in over. I'm content to fuss around with what I have every now and then. Perhaps a small bowl now and then, or a run or two of different pens when the offcut bin gets full. It's fun to do, and I'd like to keep it at that level.

Now I have to learn how to sharpen the lathe chisels I successfully dulled through use.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Nicely done Brian! Welcome to the addiction, and now you know there's no recovery from the slope.

You might want to check the nib bushing OD with your calipers, compare to a nib - sometimes you can get slightly mis-sized bushings. Also, be cautious with any carbide or HSS turning tools near the bushings - you can accidentally under-size them yourself - DAMHIKT.

You may already know about Penn State Industries - they have a nice variety of kits, and some decent prices for larger orders.

[Brian G]

Thanks, Bill. PSI has taken some of my money for a set of chisels, a pen mandrel (with mandrel saver), a few kit sets, barrel trimmer, a drive center, and a live center.

I have the Ryobi ML618 that I bought for $40. That's as far as I want to go for now. No room in the shop for anything bigger.

Next up is a duck call so we can communicate with the mallards that let us put our house on their lawn.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Sounds like you're well set up. The ML618 sounds like a great find for $40, with its variable speed and 18in bed - 1996 street price was ~$250.

[leehljp]

I had the most trouble with getting the nibs to match the barrel. I was successful with the clip and cap every time, so the next run I will flip-flop the nib and clip ends. I had mixed results with getting the center ring matched nicely.

The way to do this is use calipers. HF has some sets that go on sale for $14 - $15. Used to be for less than $10, but lately HF prices seem to be increasing kinda rapidly.

Don't judge the size by the "bushing" size as the bushings will "shrink" with use. Bushings are "consumables".

Measure the nib, clip end and center ring and turn to match. I usually turn to near size, sand down the last .005 to .008. I actually sand down to about .005 - .008 SMALLER than the nib, CR, Clip end and build up with CA to about that much MORE in size and sand those down to the size. Use the calipers at every stage.

People will notice the perfect fit and finish and you will too!

[Brian G]

Thanks, Lee. I did switch to using a caliper for the last two, based on guidance from here (a post by BigGuyZ) and from the international penturners website. Closer, but I just need to turn more and practice more.

I think some of the roughness is coming from the separation of the bushing and the finished barrel ends. I use a scalpel blade to score the CA so it doesn't chip when I separate the bushing and the barrel. I don't think I'm always successful. Any tips there? I've contemplated removing the bushings and using a spare brass tube when I switch to the finish part. My only concern with doing that is that CA will accumulate on the end and, although the parts may have the exact diameter, the ends of the barrels won't press flat against the parts.

Thanks again, Bill and Lee.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Brian,
One thing you might consider is a dead center for the headstock (assuming you also have a 60deg live center in the tailstock), which will allow you to turn or finish "between the centers". For finishing, to avoid irregularities on the barrel ends, you might put a dab of paste wax on the ends before mounting between the centers. When finishing with bushings, I've seen recommended that you put wax on the bushings. The scoring is also good, assuming you have a sharp blade.

[Brian G]

Thanks, Bill. I'll add those suggestions to the list of things to try. I do have a 60-degree live center that I can use in the tailstock.

It's such a beautiful day here (finally!) that I have no desire to shut myself in the basement shop and play. Windows open, breeze clearing the air. . . and a beer in hand.

[leehljp]

I do have a 60-degree live center that I can use in the tailstock.

That quote doesn't say it directly, but kinda gives the perception that you don't normally use the 60° center for the tail stock. On mandrels - mandrels have a dimple in the end for the TS center to fit into. This "dimple" is 60° and by placing anything but the 60° center can cause wobble and just enough out of concentricity to make for an unsmooth match between the blank and fitting. We often refer to this as "out of round", (which some say is not technically correct) but more or less a phrase to say that something ain't right.

[Brian G]

Lee, for these pens I used PSI's Mandrel Saver.

I figured that the extra $10 was worth avoiding a bent mandrel or two.

[leehljp]

Lee, for these pens I used PSI's Mandrel Saver.

I figured that the extra $10 was worth avoiding a bent mandrel or two.

Got it. I went back and noticed that you had said that earlier. Sorry for missing it!