Spur Drives

[nickg]

After a 10 year break (lost interest), I decided to fire up the old Craftsman lathe again. My wife bought pizza cutter, and bottle opener kits at Rockler the other day that need handles. I noticed the spur (center) drive that came with the lathe was worn and dull - and would not 'bite' into the end grain of my handle stock. No matter how securely I attached it, the wood would simply spin against the spur drive, and live center. I tried sharpening the spurs on the drive, but that didn't seem to help much. Anyway I ordered two 4-spur drives that I found on the internet. They came yesterday and work a lot better than my old one (no spinning or flying wood thank goodness). I'm wondering now, if the 2-spur drives would have been a better choice - I should have ordered one of each! Which spur drives to more experienced turners prefer?

Here's a pic of the handle I made for the pizza cutter. I'm not too unhappy with it, considering I haven't plugged that lathe in for many years now. It's kind of fun, and I think I'm going to get into it again!

[Whaler]

Welcome back to the lathe Nick. Looks like you have remembered how to turn, the pizza cutter looks good.
I don't use spur centers, for all of my closed end work, pens, bottle stoppers, razors etc I use closed end mandrels or make something myself. I see that that cutter uses a 5/16 threaded insert so I think I would glue in the insert before turning and then use a piece of 5/16 all rod or bolt with the head cut off gripped in a chuck to turn it. This way you can back the tailstock off at the end and finish the butt end on the lathe.

[nickg]

Thanks for jogging my memory Dick! I didn't remember having problems with spur drives, split wood, flying wood, and ill fitting tool rests when I used to turn pens/pencils, handles. The reason being, I did use a chuck, and mandrel to support the work. In fact, I found the chuck in my 'lathe stuff' box, and was wondering what I had used it for. Now, it's coming back to me (albeit slowly) I'll use the chuck and 5/16" threaded rod (or sawed off bolt) when I get ready to make the accompanying bottle opener kit (later today I hope!!)

[jking]

I remember reading in one of his books a few years ago that Richard Raffan prefers two spur centers. It was an older edition, so, I don't know if that opinion may have changed.

It does seem like most commercial spindle turnings I've seen have marks on the end from a four spur center.

[Whaler]

Thanks for jogging my memory Dick! I didn't remember having problems with spur drives, split wood, flying wood, and ill fitting tool rests when I used to turn pens/pencils, handles. The reason being, I did use a chuck, and mandrel to support the work. In fact, I found the chuck in my 'lathe stuff' box, and was wondering what I had used it for. Now, it's coming back to me (albeit slowly) I'll use the chuck and 5/16" threaded rod (or sawed off bolt) when I get ready to make the accompanying bottle opener kit (later today I hope!!)

Nick, check the instructions on the bottle stopper. All of the ones that I know of have either 1/4x20 or 3/8x16 threaded stud.
Here are the stopper mandrels that I use. The two on the left are from Woodcraft the one on the right is PSI. The Woodcraft mandrels are held in a chuck the PSI mandrel screws onto the spindle.

[nickg]

Nick, check the instructions on the bottle stopper. All of the ones that I know of have either 1/4x20 or 3/8x16 threaded stud.
Here are the stopper mandrels that I use. The two on the left are from Woodcraft the one on the right is PSI. The Woodcraft mandrels are held in a chuck the PSI mandrel screws onto the spindle.

It's a bottle cap opener (as opposed to a bottle stopper). I does use a 5/16" threaded insert, like the pizza cutter. Both the opener and the cutter are well made and heavy duty (but too expensive if you ask me )

I also found some bottle stopper and pen kits in my basement stash, so I want to use them too. Found the mandrel that I used to make the pens and stoppers way back when. They must have used the same sized mandrel, as I only found the one (??).

I was looking at your photos of your pens, razors, seam rippers, etc, as well as work other BT3 turners have done - very impressive indeed!! Do you use off camera flash? The turnings are artistic, but so are the photos. (PS: I like the little chrome Dachshund)

Nick

[nickg]

I remember reading in one of his books a few years ago that Richard Raffan prefers two spur centers. It was an older edition, so, I don't know if that opinion may have changed.

It does seem like most commercial spindle turnings I've seen have marks on the end from a four spur center.

Yes, I think I read something to that effect too (two spurs being preferable) in that they do a better job of gripping wood that is not absolutely flat. Never tried the two spur version though.

[seabat]

Well I'm a cheap fellow so I use an old 5/8" fornster bit as a spur drive. I've also used a spot weld cutter with great success.

[guycox]

I use a two spur drive center for green wood. For turnings that may have to be removed from the lathe and re-positioned I use a Steb drive and live centers. I can switch ends with 100% accuracy. Why switch ends? It's a whole lot easier to turn the handles of a rolling pin and make them match if I'm always making the same motion. I turn the handles on the tailstock end and always make the same roll and swing motion..