Need advice from the pen turners here

[MilDoc]

Wouldn't you know it. I am interested in pen (and other small item) turning, and just today received "The Pen Turner's Workbook" from Amazon. After looking through it I logged in here.

And what do I find? Alex's pen turning video (VERY nice BTW!).

(Also BTW Alex, I will now blame YOU when I tell SWMBO that I want MORE TOOLS!)

So, I've decided on a midi lathe, preferably with variable speed. I've looked at these:

Turncrafter Commander 10"
Shop Fox W1752
Jet JML-1014VS

Any preferences, or others I should consider? I would also like the midi to be extensible for possible spindles in the future.

Thanks all!

[leehljp]

For most people who really take to pen turning, they find that a variable speed is really helpful. Some people don't mind switching the belt to different pulleys, and some never change speed.

For me and many others though, the VS is very helpful. I turn at a higher speed and then slow down to sand and to apply the finish. It is very tricky to apply an extremely fine finish at 1500 to 2000 RPM or higher. Yet, 2000+ RPM or more really helps in some turning situations.

With that in mind, it really helps to have a variable speed lathe.


NEXT: VS versus VS! Variable Speed terminology has been taken to new heights. One of my favorite tool companies - Porter Cable, has a VS mini in which they used to post "continuously variable". However, their idea is that if you change the belt over three pulleys, then the electronics will make it "continuously variable" over the wide spectrum. Most people and companies refer to "continuously variable" as totally electronics or with a Reeves drive as mentioned below.

There are several variable speed methods:
1. By change belt/pulley - but this is not "usually" referred to as VS.
2. Combination of belt/pulley and VS electronic
3. Electronic VS
4. Reeves drive which is like the VS clutch system, and it is continuously variable. I think PC, along with Grizzly and HF have a Reeves drive, but these are on larger lathes. (But they still do pens well.)

Watch for these things as you choose your lathe, and especially if you want a VS. The less pulleys to change and more VS it has, the more time and focus on "getting the job done."

[jking]

Well, I have a Wilton mini lathe, so, any one of the lathes you are looking at would be an upgrade for me. Variable speed is very handy; mine is adjusted with a rheostat. Hank gives a good description of the differences. Another thing I'd mention is staying with a #2 Morse taper is more versatile if you upgrade to a bigger lathe later.

[leehljp]

I came back to post about the #2MT (Morse Taper), but JKing beat me to it. What he said is right on. In the past, I usually listed the 2MT as the #1 feature to look for.

[Whaler]

I can't add much to what Hank and jking have said but will add my experience. I started out with a Jet 1014 and it served me well when the Jet 1220 came out I stepped up to one and really liked it but still changing the belts was a PIA. A couple years ago I bought a Jet 1220VS and love it.
My recommendation would to buy the Jet 1220VS if it fits your budget.

[BigguyZ]

I've heard nothing but great things about the Delta lathe that came out not too long ago. I've checked it out and it's definitely nice.

[Alex Franke]

(Also BTW Alex, I will now blame YOU when I tell SWMBO that I want MORE TOOLS!)

I wasn't sure how I'd like it, so when my Delta came out at ~$120 with shipping from Amazon a few years ago I jumped on it. I don't really mind changing the belts at all. The only other thing I really added was a Barracuda chuck kit (which cost more than the lathe!), but of course you don't really need something like that for pens. I think my original pen "starter kit" was from Rockler -- a mandrel, some bushings, blanks, glue, and pen kits. It seemed like a pretty good deal.

I also like having the switch on the left.

[leehljp]

I will throw a monkey wrench in the slippery slope deal: There is a way of turning that is called "Mandrelless" or "turning between bushings", or "turning between centers". This is quite a bit more accurate for most people and a lot simpler. However, most people like to turn the top and bottom at the same time, and for this you do need the mandrels.

I will give one recommendation to start with: Get a good set of calipers and measure the pen nib end, center ring, and clip end where the blanks will fit next to. Mark these measurements down and then turn and sand to bring the blank to size according the the measurements. Measure the turnings with the calipers, of course. The reason for this is that the bushings will wear down each time you turn a set of blanks - as you touch it with the chisel or touch it with the sandpaper as it is turning. By the time most people have turned 10 pens, the set of bushings have been reduced in size by .01 or more. For this reason, DON'T judge the finished size of the blank by the bushings, but by caliper measurement. People will be able to notice the quality of your work when this is done, and they will also notice the slight mismatch if done otherwise.