CA/BLO finish

[jgrobler]

I have a question on pen finishing. For wooden pens, I've just started looking into more durable finishes, previously I was using HUT shellac wax, but with use, the pens got dull.

From reading some, it seems that CA/BLO is the most popular pen finish, for gloss and durability. I didn't have BLO on-hand, so I tried just CA (little tubes you can buy anywhere). A few coats of that, then wet-sanded with micro mesh to 12000, and it looks very nice. Deep gloss, appears very durable, been using the pen for 2 weeks now.

So my question is, what does the BLO bring to the equation? There must be a reason people use that in conjunction with CA.

Johan

[Whaler]

I do it both ways and feel that the BLO/CA goes on easier for me but is not as high a gloss finish. Both systems work so use the one that gives you the finish that you want.

[Richard in Smithville]

IMHO, the blo helps to "pop" the grain but I have also heard that it helps to cure the ca. By using both I find the the finish is much smoother and only takes minimal polishing to bring the glow out of the pen. This video helped me a lot.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc

[leehljp]

CA finishes differently with temp changes and with humidity changes. This is not always noticeable until lots of experience is under the belt. Below 75°, CA starts curing just a little slower. Below 60°, even more so. In the winter, in my milder climate that rarely gets below 20°F, I keep my little shop between 50° and 60° and just do not try to finish below 50°.

So, why BLO? BLO is a mild accelerant which can and will make the CA react/cure like it is about 10° warmer. Most of the reading on this from different sites speak of the CA as an accelerant. But the practical application of that is that as a mild accelerant the CA is assisted in curing at slightly lower temps. This (BLO) is not needed when it is 85° or more, but it helps when it is cooler.

High humidity also affects CA mildly. For some people, they say not at all, for others, quite a bit. You will get lots of opinions on BLO and its effect with CA concerning humidity or no humidity. And most of the time those in agreement for their usage or non-usage will be in similar temp and weather situations. BLO in high humidity - to me - traps moisture in the blank and over a period of 3 to 4 days, the CA sometimes clouds up. Sometimes this cloudiness will go away after a week in a dry warm place.

But for Others, they don't experience this.

BLO and popping the grain - Adding finish oils to the wood changes it color and brings out a deeper color on some woods. Because BLO works well with CA most of the time, and acts as a lubricant too, it has become the main addition to CA use. I don't use BLO on white holly or on bloodwood. BLO makes holly look like antique ivory and it makes bloodwood have a minute' burnt orange look. Most of the time I like popping the grain, but on some woods - no. I do NOT use BLO on oily woods either. Most of the time, it will make it easier for the CA to pull away from the oily woods such as in most ebonies, some rosewoods. cocobolo, snakewood and other oily woods.

Be aware that there are TWO distinct usages for BLO and they each have entirely different purposes.

[gerti]

I wonder if it works both with 'real' boiled linseed oil like

http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/danish.htm

or does it require todays typical BLOs that aren't actually boiled but use drying agents. Anyone know?

[leehljp]

I wonder if it works both with 'real' boiled linseed oil like

http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/danish.htm

or does it require todays typical BLOs that aren't actually boiled but use drying agents. Anyone know?

You bring up a good point. I think most people use what ever they get at the local hardware store or HD/Lowes. I bought some BLO in Tokyo a few years ago that was very yellowish. I brought the grain out in oak and a few other woods great and then after using it up, couldn't find it in Osaka or Nagoya, only a very clear BLO. But the reading was too difficult for me to make out the particulars.

Off Topic - I also found tung oil in Tokyo about 20 years ago, but then moved to Osaka. In Osaka and Nagoya, I could not find tung oil. All this time (about 15 years), I did see an oil finish readily available that said in Japanese: "China Tree Oil". No matter who I asked or looked up in a dictionary, I could never find the connection of "China Tree Oil" and "tung oil". Two years ago, I looked up something related to the tree and fruit (nut) in a Japanese dictionary and found in that explanation that the China Tree Oil and tung oil were the same.

[jgrobler]

Wow, busy week. I haven't had a chance to check back in in a week.

Thanks to all the responses. Richard, that video explains the process very good. And why my first CA/BLO attempt had less than acceptible results. And even my CA only finish was very "lumpy" and required a fair amount of sanding to look nice. And apparently it shouldn't.

Hank, very useful information. Since my normal summer temperature rarely goes above 75, and it's not very humid, and the video advice, I'm ready to give it another try.

Johan