Pen turning- Easiest way to get a gloss finish?

[BigguyZ]

I'll post pics soon, but I've just started to turn pens. I've used some HUT semi-gloss wax, but I want to get a super shiny finish on some pens. I tried using CA glue, but had mixed results. Is there a link on how to apply that finish? Are there easier finishes to use?

Thanks!

[Tom Miller]

For a quick and easy high gloss finish, I use Mylands high-build friction polish, after using Mylands cellulose sealer. I got both at the Bloomington, MN Woodcraft.

It's foolproof, but it may not be the longest-lasting finish. You really need to decide what you want in a pen finish first; opinions on this vary, as you might guess.

Regards,
Tom

[BigguyZ]

For a quick and easy high gloss finish, I use Mylands high-build friction polish, after using Mylands cellulose sealer. I got both at the Bloomington, MN Woodcraft.

It's foolproof, but it may not be the longest-lasting finish. You really need to decide what you want in a pen finish first; opinions on this vary, as you might guess.

Regards,
Tom

I want it to be foolproof to apply. Incredibly durable, and have a high gloss "wet" look. I don't want it to ever ever wear or fail in any way. I also want it to be cheap to buy, costing as little as possible.

Is that too much to ask?

Seriously though, by longest-lesting, what do you mean? That's rather subjective IMHO.

I'll probably be heading to the Bloomington Woodcraft on my way home in about an hour.

[ke4rdb]

My vote is also for Mylands Sanding Sealer and the Mylands Friction Polish. Let the Mylands "cure" for two or three days before using the pen and the finish seems to be much more durable.

James

[Ken Massingale]

I've found the Mylands to be good for a pen carried in a pocket, but not for ladies who carry them in purses. CA is best IMO for what you want, then lacquer. Hank did a real good tutorial on CA application a few days ago.

[BigguyZ]

I looked for CA finish on the forum, didn't see anything recent. Do you have a link?

[Ken Massingale]

I looked for CA finish on the forum, didn't see anything recent. Do you have a link?

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ght=pen+finish

[dabeeler]

Go to this link: http://www.penturners.org/forum/portal.asp Tons of info on finishing. Do a search on gloss finish or check the library for video tutorials.

[gerti]

The easiest high gloss finish to apply for pens is probably crystal coat. Apply with the lathe on slow, using a few drops on a small piece of rag or paper towel (small so it can't wrap around the lathe). Then turn the lathe up high, and use a small (quadrupled up so you don't burn your fingers) and work it, building up some friction and heat. Afterwards let it dry and cool for about 1 hour before handling, the surface dulls up pretty fast before that time.

In my experience Crystal Coat is a bit easier to work with and more forgiving than Mylands Friction Polish, but they are fairly similar.

It holds up OK, but if the pen is handled a lot it will wear through in a few months.

The CA finish is a lot more work and there are a lot more things that can go wrong. The finish is probably the most durable you can get. But it also has a little of that plastic-like feeling, which some people don't like.

Another tip: With some very hard or oily woods you can polish the wood itself so it almost will not need finishing: Bloodwood or ebony (hard), or cocobolo (oily).

[leehljp]

Enduro is a hard high gloss lacquer that some people use and swear by. Some even say it is harder than CA finish.

But the caveats are that - it takes longer to finish. Finishing is easy but it just takes patience and waiting for a curing time. It might dry in a very short time but some waith at least 24 hours and up to 2 to 3 days for curing before sanding and buffing out. If you start to work on it (Buff it or try to shine it up) before the "cure" time, then the results is less than spectacular.

Enduro finish - Click here!
http://www.beartoothwoods.com/

Here is a PDF from a fellow who only waits 3 to 4 hours or overnight to do his finish:
http://www.penmakersguild.com/articles/endurofinish.pdf

The real problem with CA glue is that it has a long learning curve for most people. It can be shortened with actual hands on while being guided by an experienced user. It took me off and on ( two weeks of pen making 4 months not, a week on, a few months not) for 2 years before I finally got to the point that I could do it without a problem. But by this time I developed an allergy to it and now have to wear a respirator. Still, I prefer CA.

[Tom Miller]

I want it to be foolproof to apply. Incredibly durable, and have a high gloss "wet" look. I don't want it to ever ever wear or fail in any way. I also want it to be cheap to buy, costing as little as possible.

As long as you keep your expectations reasonable like that, you'll be fine.

BTW, I just re-finished my everyday pen by jury-rigging a chuck, reshaping with a skew chisel (taking down to bare wood), sanding, and reapplying a sealer followed by Deft lacquer (brush-on variety). This is not a fool proof finish, but the last application has lasted over a year and was going strong. My motivation was not to re-do the finish, but to reshape the pen for better ergonomics.

Regards,
Tom

[mpauly]

I just started turning pens and have only turned a handful so far, but I've had good luck with my CA finish. I'm definitely no expert, but here's my method based largely on the library and finishing forums over at www.penturners.org.

- sand the blank through 220-400-100 grits with the lathe on med speed, sanding with the grain after each grit.
- blow off the blank with compressed air.
- put about 4-5 drops of thin CA to a paper towel and apply to one blank (I've been doing 2 part pens). I only move the towel over the blank twice, as the CA dries it gets tacky and the towel can stick. Once it's dry buff with a clean part of the towel
- Repeat with do the other piece of the blank if you've got one.
- I don't sand here, just repeat the process 3 times with medium CA. The only difference is I keep lightly moving the paper towel on the blank till the CA is mostly dry (if I don't sometimes the CA gets bumpy).
Note: Some say to sand in between coats, but I found it didn't make much of a difference in the end and not doing it eliminates the possibility of sanding marks in the middle of the finish.
- Then lightly sand with 400 and 1000 grits then wet sand with 1200 and 2000 grits, with the grain in between grits.

I don't get a mirror finish, but I do get a shiny, deep gloss that I really like the look and feel of. I'm going to order some micro mesh to see if I can get a mirror finish and then see if I even like the look. I also want to try BLO in between coats. Like I said, I'm no expert and there may be better ways of doing this and getting better results. But from all I've read it's best to start with a method, get it to work and modify it from there. The one nice thing about CA is it dries fast and if you screw it up you can just sand it off and try again.

Also, I don't use an accelerator as I find it gives a different finish. If you have voids or cracks in your blank, you may want to replace that first thin CA application with a wet sanding with med CA.

Good luck,
Michael

[dabeeler]

A very cheap finish is a make your own plexi finish using plexiglass and acatone which after it is applies is wet sanded to 12000 micromesh, polished with a plastic polish or good auto polish. I then apply a coat of ren wax. Leaves a very hard wet looking finish. Instructions for making can be found at penturners.org.

[drumpriest]

I usually use a friction finish, though they are not the most rugged. I worry about rubbing out finishes on the lathe, all of those carcinogenic particulates that fly off.

[leehljp]

A very cheap finish is a make your own plexi finish using plexiglass and acatone which after it is applies is wet sanded to 12000 micromesh, polished with a plastic polish or good auto polish. I then apply a coat of ren wax. Leaves a very hard wet looking finish. Instructions for making can be found at penturners.org.

Dabeeler,

What consistency do you use? I know that the description is arbitrary but a good description might be helpful to all. I haven't tried it yet but I am thinking about it.

My real problem is my pen turning time is sporadic at best. Last summer I made some plexi finish, got it to a very slightly syrupy state and then was not able to get back to turning or experimenting for about 3 months. By then - it was thicker than molasses in winter and cloudy too.