What do I need to sharpen my turning tools?

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  • BrazosJake
    Veteran Member
    • Nov 2003
    • 1148
    • Benbrook, TX.
    • Emerson-built Craftsman

    #16
    Originally posted by RayintheUK
    I'm with DeanKC here - the way sharpening pays off is to be able to swiftly repeat a grind. Many turners let their tools go way too blunt before (re)sharpening.

    Since I got into the habit of re-touching an edge frequently, my turning experience has vastly improved and so has the finish straight from the tools. I used to realize that my edge had dulled, but actually put off re-touching as long as I could - WRONG! Not only is this counter-productive, but it can lead to some nasty experiences of catches and dig-ins because you're having to force the tool harder, etc.

    I've got my sharpening system right next to the lathe and because of the way I'm set up, I can step to the right, re-touch the edge and be back turning in less than 2 minutes. I can't remember the last time I had a dig-in or catch (although that might also be down to improved technique through experience) and the re-touching has now become part of my turning technique. Sanding is greatly reduced and I've never regretted the "frequent is best" approach. FWIW.

    Ray.

    Sounds like the jig probably pays for itself not only in time, but money-wise in wood and steel saved (and those turning tools are not cheap!).

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    • BrazosJake
      Veteran Member
      • Nov 2003
      • 1148
      • Benbrook, TX.
      • Emerson-built Craftsman

      #17
      Dean,

      What kind of wheels/grit do you run? I've read 80 is pretty good all-purpose. Also read the Norton blue (SG grade) is way better than the white, though they cost about 2x as much. Of course, the grey wheels are useless.

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      • BigguyZ
        Veteran Member
        • Jul 2006
        • 1818
        • Minneapolis, MN
        • Craftsman, older type w/ cast iron top

        #18
        It seems to me that you could quickly make your own Wolverine jig out of angle iron or something. Maybe I'm wrong, but has anyone tried? It's not exactly cheap.

        I was watching a program on The Wood Working Channel (online) and the guy used a thin belt sander to do all of his tools. It was quick, and it seems to me like it'd be repeatable since you simly match the bevel on the tool. Do you think that'd work well? What grit belt would you use? How far would the table need to tilt to have this work?

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        • DeanKC
          Forum Newbie
          • Dec 2006
          • 37
          • KCMO

          #19
          Originally posted by BrazosJake
          What kind of wheels/grit do you run? I've read 80 is pretty good all-purpose. Also read the Norton blue (SG grade) is way better than the white, though they cost about 2x as much. Of course, the grey wheels are useless.
          Yep, the gray/grey ones are indeed good for little more than course grinding and lawnmower blades.

          I went with Wolverine's recommendations of 60 and 80 grit. I've thought about adding a 100 grit for certain tools, especially the small gouges just to keep them from grinding away so quickly.

          BigGuyZ, yes, you can indeed make your own Wolverine cloney kind of deal. There are a couple of sites out there where guys have made their own look-alikes that seem to do a pretty nice job. I'm going to go there and steal their ideas to make myself a couple of dedicated gouge jigs, just for my smaller and larger gouges that I don't want to change the grinds for. MUCH cheaper than buying several of the Wolverine Gouge Jigs, and without the adjustment, you don't have to! Just pick up the jig for that gouge and go! If you're interested, I'll try to find the best link. Here's one, though, to give you an idea. http://wood.box23.net/?p=48

          DeanKC

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          • BigguyZ
            Veteran Member
            • Jul 2006
            • 1818
            • Minneapolis, MN
            • Craftsman, older type w/ cast iron top

            #20
            Well I'm going to try the strip sander method. I tried picking up the one from HF last night, but they were out. If that doesn't work, I'll pop for the Woodcraft slow speed grinder witht the two good wheels already mounted.

            I definitely think that cloning my own jig would be worth it. And satisfying too. Dean, thanks for the link, I really like that idea!

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            • BigguyZ
              Veteran Member
              • Jul 2006
              • 1818
              • Minneapolis, MN
              • Craftsman, older type w/ cast iron top

              #21
              Time for an Update:

              I called my local HF this afternoon and low-and-behold they actually had the sander in! I went over to pick it up and got it for the $30 it was priced for on the website when I initially tried to pick one up. It's not the best quality unit, and it takes forever and a day to really get going, but I have to say that it works pretty well from what I can tell. I used it on some really rough chisels, even to the point of re-establishing the grind. the belt in there was 80 grit. It worked well, and is repeatable. I need to get some more belts for the sander, maybe 120 grit.

              Over all, it might not be the best system, but I think it'll work for me. I can't wait to have enough time to do some more turning and see what it's like to use sharp tools again!

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