Bowl Finishing Question

[Caddis295]

Greetings all,

I am in the process of finishing my first bowl, and I have a question about finish material. The bowl I am making is not going to be used for hot or cold food, or liquids, but it will most likely be used to hold fruit or nuts. What should I use for a finish. Is a poly sufficient with a wax polish or just poly? Should I use Tung oil? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Dino

[Jim Boyd]

Any of them would be fine in your case. Just depends on the "look" that you like. Me, I like lacquer

[Bruce Platt]

I have gotten to like the results of mineral oil on my bowls lately. Mainly not for looks, but for feel. It retains the distictive wood feel, not a plastic bowl. Plus it is food safe. Takes more patience though to build up a good finish and maintain it.

I will occasionally use a wipe on poly for things that will not be food contact.

[gerti]

You do not mention the wood you used, so here some generic tips:

Personally I do not laquer or similar finishes. While very glossy, they stay 'on the wood' and make the surface look plastic like. However others like that.

One thing to do after sanding on the lathe is to burnish the wood. Just grab some of the shavings, turn on the lathe and press the shavings against the wood. That really improves the surface on many woods, and in some cases may even be all that is needed.

Tung oil brings out the figure in many woods. Apply on the lathe, let it soak in a little, wipe off excess, turn on the lathe and polish with a rag (being very careful that the rag can not be caught!!!). The finish is very pretty, but depending on the wood it may be absorbed completely into the wood within weeks, leaving it a bit dull. Tung oil does not usually polymerize. Some other oils (boiled linseed oil, heat treated walnut oil etc) do polymerize and dry after some days. Note that tung oil, walnut oil etc. are nut oils which may trigger allergies in some people.

To help the wood keep a luster, you can use bees wax. With the bowl spinning hold a beeswax stick against it, then rub it out with a rag. This can be done over the tung oil, or just by itself. Beeswax being rather soft that obviously that is not the most durable finish, but works well for decorative pieces.

Another possible finish is friction finish, similar as what often is used on pens. Pretty durable and shiny. Mylands 'High Build Friction Polish' is one example.

The Beall Buffing System uses abrasives and Carnauba wax and creates a very shiny surface on the wood. The wax is hard enough to withstand moderate use.

Another finish that produces quick results and can be used on the lathe is a mix of Shellac and mineral oil. It works somewhat like friction finishes.

A finish I have tried recently and really like is Rockler's Gel Polyurethane. It is very easy to use, leaves a satin finish and does not have the 'on the wood' feel. Very easy to apply: On the finish-sanded bowl (600 grid recommended) wipe on the gel, then wipe it off thoroughly. Let dry for a few hours (or better overnight). Use brown packing paper or a brown paper bag to slightly work over the surface and remove any nits, and apply a second coat. That usually is sufficient, for extra protection a third coat may be indicated. I really like this finish on a variety of woods, and it is pretty durable.

BTW according to finishing experts any fully cured finish is considered food safe.

I can only recommend experimenting, that's part of the fun of turning. All the finishes have different properties. The major deciding factors are ease of use, durability and of course looks.

[Bruce Platt]

"BTW according to finishing experts any fully cured finish is considered food safe. "

Not a 'finishing expert' but I would only consider it safe if you can eat it. Lead based paint cures fully . But I dont think you would use that. Remember they told us teflon was safe too.

Incidental contact is ok, but any kind of bowl where mixing occurs could abrade the finish ( or cuting board) and add it to the food.