Sanding question

[germdoc]

I am honing my skills on pen turning. So far, I feel like I am making some progress, at least I impress myself and my pets.

I have noticed that when finishing light-colored woods like maple or orangewood on the lathe there is a tendency for dark streaks to show up when I get down to 600-1200 grit. I think I am getting the sandpaper grit and dust into the grain and burnishing it in--can't easily remove it with compressed air, tack cloths, etc. I am using automotive sandpapers dry for what it's worth.

I end up sanding with 2000 grit, then apply Woodturner's Finish with a cotton cloth. The results on darker woods have been outstanding with this approach. I also have excellent results with acrylic--wetsand to 2000 then apply paste wax and burnish it.

Is there a special type of sandpaper, or special technique that I should be using? Should I sand at a high or medium speed? Or, what about sealing the wood with shellac before sanding down to a fine grit?

Any hints?

[kwgeorge]

Ok, the “impress myself and my pets” was very funny. Got a chuckle out of me for sure.

On the sanding part, automotive sandpaper will turn your wood black if you press to hard or stay in one spot too long. A light touch is all that is needed when sanding to that fine of grit. Friction is a killer with this stuff. Slow down, lighten up and take your time.

Remember to sand “with” the grain before incrementing up to the next grit and clear the wood of sanding dust before changing grits each time.

[Ken Massingale]

In addition to what Kenneth said, be sure you aren't sanding onto the bushings. Dragging that metal dust back onto light woods and sanding it in makes a real booger to get out.
And, sounds like you are better than me, even the shop dogs chuckle once in a while!
ken

[Whaler]

I dry sand through 400 and then put the lathe on the slowest speed and wet sand through the stack of micro mesh pads.

[gerti]

Happened to me, in my case it was the bushings. Keep the sandpaper away from them as much as possible.

Gerd

[Jim Boyd]

quote:Originally posted by Whaler

I dry sand through 400 and then put the lathe on the slowest speed and wet sand through the stack of micro mesh pads.

Ditto except for the wet sanding. And my bushings are always shiney bright I don't have the staining any more since I started using micromesh sand paper. That wet/dry stuff will streak easily.

[Bruce Platt]

I usually will take a handfull of shavings from the turning and burnish the wood with them while the lathe is turning. Helps to clear any of the sanding dirt away and can smooth out some of the real fine ridges left by sanding.

[germdoc]

Thanks for all the above hints. Looking forward to trying them out this weekend--have to finish my Christmas presents...(I'm not joking )

[guycox]

Ditto on the staining from the automotive wet/dry sandpaper... I was working on cherry bowl today .. It had some spalting but I was getting staining from the 400 grit. I was not pressing hard. I was even getting the "stains" with the lathe stopped! -- The worst offender seemed to be some stuff manufactured in Finland.. I'm going out tomorrow to find some 3M/Nortaon made in the good old USA...

[Flyingscooter]

I've had that happened too. After I get done sanding, I polish with a cotton sock. (for as odd as that sounds). I get a great finish that way.

[Doghouse]

You may want to put a layer of CA on your bushings back enough so you can still get a good shape, but enough to hold the sandpaper off the bushings. You may be dragging some of the bushing into the wood.

[germdoc]

I've gotten better with my technique. I found that using a light touch is preferable with higher grit paper. Also I sand the middle, then sand the ends with "clean" paper going from the wood toward the bushings. My latest pens have not had much darkening with sanding.

Now I'm working on my technique for bowl sanding--a new set of challenges...