Recommended Glue for Food Safe Bowl?

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  • boblon
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2003
    • 727
    • Florida, USA.
    #1

    Recommended Glue for Food Safe Bowl?

    Am wondering if anyone has any recommendations on what glue would be perferred when gluing up a bowl blank that will be used for food (salad bowl).

    This will not really be a segmented bowl, just want to glue together enough flat stock to build up sufficent thickness (depth of bowl) for the bowl.

    Thanks,
    BobL.
    "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement."
    Tags: None
    • Wood_workur
      Veteran Member
      • Aug 2005
      • 1914
      • Ohio
      • Ryobi bt3100-1
      #2
      I have hear of titebond I, II, and III being used in cutting boards. I think that if the finish is food safe, then any finish will work.
      Alex

        Comment

        • Jim Boyd
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2002
          • 1766
          • Montgomery, Texas, USA.
          • Delta Unisaw
          #3
          Tite Bond (any flavor) will be fine. One word of caution. Glueing several square boards together in the way you suggest will take longer to dry. I did a couple that way and the center was still wet after 36 hrs. It was in cooler weather also. One other thing, I would advise the boards be glued up with the grain all running in the same direction. I did it the other way and developed some cracks on the endgrain sections of each layer. O.K. maybe that was more than one word[)]
          Jim in Texas and Sicko Ryobi Cult Member ©

            Comment

            • boblon
              Senior Member
              • Aug 2003
              • 727
              • Florida, USA.
              #4
              Thanks for the info guys.

              I did end up using TiteBond II. Wish I had read this before I glued it up as I did alternate the grain.

              I was careful that the surfaces were as flat as I could make them for the glue joint. I used 16 good clamps for the glue up. Temperature in the garage is in the 70's.

              Am curious why the glue would take so long to dry though? I suppose I should give it a couple of day to dry. Thanks for the info Jim.

              BobL.
              "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement."

                Comment

                • Wood_workur
                  Veteran Member
                  • Aug 2005
                  • 1914
                  • Ohio
                  • Ryobi bt3100-1
                  #5
                  correct me if I'm wrong, but glue need air contact to dry. When the glue dries on the outside from having direct air contact, the air takes longer to reach the inside, slowing dring times down.
                  Alex

                    Comment

                    • boblon
                      Senior Member
                      • Aug 2003
                      • 727
                      • Florida, USA.
                      #6
                      Yeah, I guess PVA does need to lose it's moisture to cure, but I thought part of that came from moisture wicking into the wood and then slowly dissipating. A thin glue line from closely fit stock under decent clamping pressure shouldn't leave that much glue in there.
                      Jim's comment about it being 'wet' after 36 hours is what had me curious. I suppose if it was an oily/resinous wood and the weather was cold could delay the glue curing.

                      BobL.
                      "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement."

                        Comment

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