My Hollowing Rig

[Jim Ketron]

Here it is its!
I have about 4hrs total in this. Its made from 1/2" x 2 1/2" Plate steel and 1" pipe for the back support, 3/4" pipe for the D-bar, 1/2" Pipe for the laser holder. I have a laser set up on it but I dont have any pics with it on. I got the laser off ebay for around $8.00 shipping included that uses AAA Batt much easier to find than
the smaller type batt. I might modify it a little buy adding a brace on the laser holder for extra support. also I purchased the boaring bar (that fits in the D-bar) and cutters off ebay over a year ago.
Please look over the mess[:I]








Here is the BE HF that I posted earlier in the rough out stage

[Jim Boyd]

That explains it! You cheated! That lathe is just too nice I have one of those I made from oak. I really need to do it in metal[]

[jnesmith]

Hey guys. Non-turner just stopping by.

That thing looks pretty slick. Can someone explain how the heck it works?

Thanks, from someone stuck in the world of square WW.

[mudder]

Very nice work.

That one gets tucked into my hollowing folder for future study.

Thank you for sharing.


Mudder

[Jim Boyd]

quote:Originally posted by jnesmith

Hey guys. Non-turner just stopping by.

That thing looks pretty slick. Can someone explain how the heck it works?

Thanks, from someone stuck in the world of square WW.

With the cutter sticking out at an angle one of the hassels is the torque generated when cutting trying to twist the tool out of your hands. That part in the "captive bars" keeps it from twisting. It also makes control SO much easier, especially way down deep in a vessel where you have to do things by feel

[Jim Ketron]

quote:Originally posted by jnesmith

Hey guys. Non-turner just stopping by.

That thing looks pretty slick. Can someone explain how the heck it works?

Thanks, from someone stuck in the world of square WW.

I used to work in the world of flat until I got my latheYou know the world is round right?
I will try to explain how it works. If you will look at the last pic with the hollow form on it you will see a cutter on the end of the boring bar there are many diff cutters that can be used. I think this one has a scraper on it. In the pic the boring bar rests on the lathes tool rest, and is also attached to the D-bar and all it does is keeps the cuter from twisting and gives it stability when cutting. you can move the D-bar around on the back rest and it will let you get into many diff shapes of hollow forms. the 1/2" pipe you see above the D-bar and boring bar is for a laser, you set the laser dot off the cutter for how thick you want the finished piece to be. EX: this piece was green so I set the dot 5/8" off the cutter and when the dot goes off the side of the hollow form you know its 5/8" thick. I soaked it in DNA wraped it and let it dry then finish turned it in the same manner.
If you all want I can take some pics of how I do it on the next one?
Jim

[jnesmith]

quote:If you will look at the last pic with the hollow form on it you will see a cutter on the end of the boring bar there are many diff cutters that can be used. I think this one has a scraper on it. In the pic the boring bar rests on the lathes tool rest, and is also attached to the D-bar and all it does is keeps the cuter from twisting and gives it stability when cutting. you can move the D-bar around on the back rest and it will let you get into many diff shapes of hollow forms.

I think I get it. Man, this turning stuff is a whole new world.

quote:the 1/2" pipe you see above the D-bar and boring bar is for a laser, you set the laser dot off the cutter for how thick you want the finished piece to be. EX: this piece was green so I set the dot 5/8" off the cutter and when the dot goes off the side of the hollow form you know its 5/8" thick.

No room for any slop, I guess. I'm sure of you are shooting for 1/4" thick and things are off by 1/16", then you've got problems.

Very cool rig. If you think to snap more shots in the future, I would appreciate it.

Gotta make room for a lathe.