Home Made MFT work bench

[jussi]

There have been several diy mft tables but I really like this design. Only downside is probably the set up time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaJ-O4gG7Dg

[cwsmith]

Setup time is one thing, and setup does seem to be a task all by itself; but, what a heck of a lot of detail work to make this thing! There are SO many pieces, with multiple cuts, drilled holes, fitting, etc.

As I've mentioned in past postings, most of my tools are portable. The only place I had to work in my Painted Post house was out on my deck, so things had to be extremely portable. For a bench, I made a couple of leg sets out of 2 x 4's, which I cut mortise and tenon joints for. Basically an 'H' pattern which was joined at the top. This provided two leg sets which were 23" wide. I cut four mortises in each leg, and then cut four 2 x 4's to the length of the bench I wanted, tenoning each end.

To set up, I simple carried the two leg sets out on deck, the four 60" lengths of tenoned 2 x 4's and within just a few minutes put the bench together with the eight wedges to lock everything in place.

For a top, I could use screw down an old chipboard top that I had, or use the two pieces of glued-up maple flooring that I use for almost everything (each is 60 x approx 10"), which made for a nice split table for cutting stock on.

Not as fancy as this "MFT" table, and certainly there's not all those plates with holes for a top, but then there wasn't nearly as much labor to build the individual components, nor the intensity to assemble each time I needed it either. However, if you're looking for a more permanent table, and you've got the inclination to make all those components, this "MFT" is certainly interesting.

I no longer use this as a bench, but I liked the simplicity and sturdiness so much that I cut the longitudinals down, mounted lockable casters and it now serves as my router table. I made a second, slightly higher piece to serve as my RAS stand. It has a horizontal foot on each leg set for provide added stability.

Somewhere here in the digital library I have some photos, that hopefully I can find.... I'll post if you're interested.

Happy New Year,

CWS

[JimD]

I saw that video and found it amusing. It might have a place if you need to stack all the pieces up into a very small space. I have a shop garage and a 3x7 Paulk inspired workbench. For something more compact this seems very interesting:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festoo...able-workshop/

Ron Paulk has three different designs, a workbence (2 2x8 pieces that fasten together to make a light 4'x8' bench). He also has a total workstation that is about 3'x6' and has a table saw workstation, space for a CMS, and a router table setup. And there is also a CMS workstation (designed for a Kapek). It is all knock down to be replicated to the worksite. All have a two level top so you can put tools on the lower level to unclutter the top. All have MFT style holes.

There is also a one sheet of MDF (1 " thick") design that goes over sawhorses. Many different ideas.

[gerti]

Nice! I think I'll pay for the real thing instead though. Who's got that amount of time? ;-)

[Pappy]

Same line of thought....Way to complicated and too much set up time!

[Cochese]

The setup of that looks exhausting.

There's only two real MFT clones/alternatives I ever found tempting to build: the one that Jim posted, and this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cepg2DAkKQE

[JimD]

Here's mine. It's based upon Ron Paulk's two layer top idea so you can put tools on the lower level and not clutter the top. I only built it over the Christmas break so not much use yet but so far I really like it.

[bigstick509]

Looks great JimD. What method did you use for the hole grid.

[JimD]

I used pegboard from HD, a Woodrave router base, and a Freud 20mm bit to make the holes. I cut about 1/2 inch off the edges of the pegboard to get the holes even inches from the edge and found the holes didn't like up perfectly. So my holes are not as precise as they could be. I don't know if that will affect me, however, because I do not plan to do crosscuts with dogs (I made Paulk's crosscut jig) but I was thinking of making a right angle jig for the worktop and it could affect that. I will still probably try it.

[atgcpaul]

Hi Jim, how's the Paulk bench working out? I've been thinking about ways to improve my workbench top that serves as my TS out feed as well as my assembly and hand tool bench. Is it sturdy enough to pound on or attach a bench vise to?

[JimD]

Yes, it is very sturdy. I've been on top of it wrestling another cabinet for the long wall in my shop and it held me (200 lbs) and the cabinet (about 75 lbs) with no complaint. I've also used a mallet on something several times and there is no detectable deflection in the top. The bottom single layer of 3/4 plywood does deflect a little from the tools on it but that was expected. I wanted the extra space and decided a little deflection wouldn't hurt anything. I have 6 wheels under it and that may be overkill. The floor of the garage isn't totally flat and in spots the middle wheels don't touch. So not much deflection in the structure.

[atgcpaul]

I was browsing YouTube this morning and came across this contractor's variation of the MFT which he calls the "MultiFunction Slab"--no affiliation, of course. I thought it had a lot of merit.

http://www.multifunctionslab.com/

Although I don't have access to a CNC, we do have a laser cutter at work. I was thinking it would be nice to have a router template cut in some plexi for my router template collar. I need to figure out what to use to index the cuts so I stay square in all directions. I think someone here said they used 3/4" holes on 4'" spacing. I'm not ready to make a whole new workbench top like this but I do to redo my mobile assembly table and something like this would be a good candidate.

[JimD]

If you are interested in this subject, you should visit the Festool Owners Group (FOG). I've been clear that my track saw is a DeWalt and I own almost no Festools and nobody gives me a hard time. This is my favorite portable MFT type worksurface:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festoo...able-workshop/

I'd build it if I was putting everything away to pull cars into the garage or did significant work away from my shop. I think it has big advantages over a MFT and you ought to be able to build it for less.

If you are thinking of a router base to use pegboard, go to woodrave.com. He gets about $40 for his which is a lot of a piece of MDF and a few metal bits but it is well engineered and works well. Fits Festool routers and PC. I put it on one of my PC690s and was surprised how well it worked.

Dogs for MFTs are 20mm as are the plastic dogs for Black and Decker workmates. So there is a reason to get a 20mm bit. But I also have some plastic dogs I got from Rockler years ago that are 3/4. So I made the holes on the legs of my workbench 3/4.

[atgcpaul]

I'm going to DIY the MFT using the pegboard. For someone who doesn't own any Festool accessories (except for the Domino), is their any advantage to starting at 20mm rather the 3/4"? I guess everything that works with Festool is going to be 20mm but maybe it will carry the same price tag?

Long term I'm going to rework my workbench which currently has no bench dog holes. I have some of the low profile 3/4" bench dogs from Rockler I never got around to using so I'm not invested in any particular size.

[Cochese]

I'm going to DIY the MFT using the pegboard. For someone who doesn't own any Festool accessories (except for the Domino), is their any advantage to starting at 20mm rather the 3/4"? I guess everything that works with Festool is going to be 20mm but maybe it will carry the same price tag?

Long term I'm going to rework my workbench which currently has no bench dog holes. I have some of the low profile 3/4" bench dogs from Rockler I never got around to using so I'm not invested in any particular size.

The biggest thing about the 20mm holes is the things like the clamping elements, and some of the accessories like the Parf dogs that Lee Valley sells. I think the holes will be a close enough size that the Festool clamps should fit in, but can't tell you 100%. There are enough 3/4" dog hole accessories that it shouldn't be too bad for you.

The only thing you absolutely don't want to do is to use accessories that would oval the holes, particularly if you lay them out in a manner that allows you to crosscut at 90°. Even spacing on the X and Y axes.

I'll be ordering two sets of Parf dogs so I can ditch the cross rail to gain more crosscut depth. Otherwise, I use the clamps in the holes and the clamping elements are superb - I know LV sells some low profile adjustable dogs that should work the same. (Wonder Dog?)