3D printer

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  • atgcpaul
    Veteran Member
    • Aug 2003
    • 4055
    • Maryland
    • Grizzly 1023SLX

    3D printer

    Originally posted by bigstick509
    Very cool Paul, we have talked about getting a 3D printer and the price point is becoming more attractive. Any advise on make or what to look for.
    It seems like a lot of companies are producing them now. I even saw a Dremel version at HD for $999.

    I like the Makerbot Replicator 2 and 2X we have at work, but they are the only 2 I have used. The 2X has a heated bed as well as dual extrusion heads--which I personally don't see the utility in and we only use one head on it anyway. The heated bed is a nice feature because as your parts print and cool down (the print head is 230degC), they contract and can warp or worse detach from the print bed. This then wreaks havoc on the print because your part can move around. The heated bed helps to keep your part stuck to the bottom as it prints. Fortunately, the spool material is not terribly expensive. There are work arounds for people without the heated bed, though, and there are also plans online to make your own heated bed if you buy one without.

    As I said in the other post, this Makerbot was limited in width. They do sell ones with a larger print footprint.

    Like I said, I use Sketchup and the MakerWare software, but the hardcore guys here use SolidWorks or some CAD variant to do the modeling, then MakerWare. If you're fairly proficient with Sketchup, you are good to go. You just need to add the STL export plugin. There is also a plugin called SolidInspector that will check your Sketchup part for any drawing flaws that would prevent it from printing properly.

    I think the model 2 was ~$3K and the 2X was more.

    We also bought a Pegasus Laser 3D printer:

    Full Spectrum Laser is committed to providing the best laser cutters and engravers for both hobbyists and professionals alike.


    I haven't used it, but the learning curve seems steeper and the process is messy. Additionally, after the part prints, you still need to cure it in UV light.

    That's really the extent of my knowledge on these. If you PM me with your e-mail address and any specific questions, I can ask our resident expert if he'll reply to you directly.

    I also recently joined MeetUp to get connected with cycling clubs. There were also several "Maker" clubs available to join so that also may be an avenue for you to get more information--maybe even hands on. I am also aware that some cities have "MakerSpaces" that, for a membership fee, gives you access to things like 3D printers.

    Work also bought an Epilog laser cutter. We're just waiting for the delivery of the exhaust unit. My boss is excited to let me play with it because he knows I'm a woodworker although I won't be in charge of it.

    Paul
  • Stytooner
    Roll Tide RIP Lee
    • Dec 2002
    • 4301
    • Robertsdale, AL, USA.
    • BT3100

    #2
    A few years back I built a Prusa Mendel printer. It was pretty nice once dialed in. I did find a few minor uses for it. I decided to sell it though while it was still current and let the technology advance more. It has advanced quite a bit so far. I think rather than a printer, my next machine might be a laser cutter engraver. I am already able to prototype stuff with two cnc mills, a cnc router, a cnc lathe and a cnc plasma cutter. In fact, I could just add a print head to my smaller CNC mill and have another printer on the cheap.
    Lee

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    • Cochese
      Veteran Member
      • Jun 2010
      • 1988

      #3
      I don't have a use for owning one, but I wonder how much it would be to do something on an ad hoc basis.

      For example, I'd love a better adapter to my 735 or my Hitachi miter saw (they have never heard of standard sizing).
      I have a little blog about my shop

      Comment

      • bigstick509
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2004
        • 1227
        • Macomb, MI, USA.
        • BT3100

        #4
        Thanks Paul for the information. I have checked out our locals MakerSpace and I
        think short term its worth the 125.00 per month to get my feet wet.

        Mike

        "It's not the things you don't know that will hurt you, it's the things you think you know that ain't so." - Mark Twain

        Comment

        • woodturner
          Veteran Member
          • Jun 2008
          • 2047
          • Western Pennsylvania
          • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

          #5
          Originally posted by atgcpaul
          The heated bed is a nice feature because as your parts print and cool down (the print head is 230degC), they contract and can warp or worse detach from the print bed.
          What material are you using? ABS? The heated bed is pretty much required to work with some materials like ABS, but other materials such as PLA don't have that issue and don't require heated plates.

          3D printers are available starting at around $150, and the specs that are traded off in the higher priced printers are resolution (analogous to the size and spacing of dots in a dot matrix printer), material type, and size of the largest piece that can be produced.

          3D printing manufacturers have adopted the "make money on supplies" business model - the printers are relatively inexpensive but the filament is "overpriced". As the market grows, I expect other companies will make after-market filament at lower cost. Unlike inkjet printers with use special cartridges that can be difficult to refill, most 3D printers use a spool of filament with a separate extruder, so it's pretty easy to use a different brand of filament.
          --------------------------------------------------
          Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

          Comment

          • woodturner
            Veteran Member
            • Jun 2008
            • 2047
            • Western Pennsylvania
            • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

            #6
            Originally posted by I saw that!
            The printers are a boon for repairing older equipment of all kinds where NLA parts are an obstacle.
            Can you please expand on that comment? I'm wondering if you are using 3D printers in that application.

            From my view, the problem with the lower end 3D printers is that they only print plastic and the resolution is low. They make fairly small, fairly brittle, plastic parts with visible ridges. To get a smooth surface requires extra filling and sanding by hand.

            I think we will get to the point of 3D printing replacement parts, but I'm not sure the economical technology is there yet. Hopefully you have a different take on this and the technology has progressed beyond my awareness
            --------------------------------------------------
            Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

            Comment

            • atgcpaul
              Veteran Member
              • Aug 2003
              • 4055
              • Maryland
              • Grizzly 1023SLX

              #7
              Originally posted by woodturner
              What material are you using? ABS? The heated bed is pretty much required to work with some materials like ABS, but other materials such as PLA don't have that issue and don't require heated plates.
              We can print ABS, nylon, or PLA (maybe more, but that's what we stock), but I was working with ABS on the one with the heated bed. PLA benefits marginally from a heated bed, but it is no easier to accomplish a good print with it. IME using rafts or printing extra supports that are later cut away is essential to increase the surface area of the material touching the bed. I don't know that machine well enough, but I was thinking about pausing it at the beginning and then adding some dabs of hot melt glue to help hold it in place. When it fails, it can fail spectacularly and you end up with what looks like a jumble of angel hair pasta.

              Comment

              • Stytooner
                Roll Tide RIP Lee
                • Dec 2002
                • 4301
                • Robertsdale, AL, USA.
                • BT3100

                #8
                I did build a nice heated bed for the Prusa and it worked well for both ABS and PLA. PLA needed a much lower temp, but still eliminated any distortion on the base.
                They were not using Nylon back then. I did do some testing with polycarbonate. I could not get everything hot enough for it. It would actually print fine at the upper limit of my hot end, but it would not bond to itself. It laid there and layered fine, but would simply unravel like an old sweater. That was max heat on the bed and hotend. I did not want to push it hotter. It was however nice and clear. Not milky.
                Soo...still waiting on further advancements in the technology.
                Lee

                Comment

                • woodturner
                  Veteran Member
                  • Jun 2008
                  • 2047
                  • Western Pennsylvania
                  • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

                  #9
                  Originally posted by I saw that!
                  I even found a guy printing covers for the Casio CZ-101 synthesizer, one of which I own but have not needed a new cover for.
                  The Casio picture shows the striations caused by resolution limitations.

                  Seems like that would not work well for a sliding part such as the window glide in the next link - or maybe they are smoothing them after printing.
                  --------------------------------------------------
                  Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

                  Comment

                  • atgcpaul
                    Veteran Member
                    • Aug 2003
                    • 4055
                    • Maryland
                    • Grizzly 1023SLX

                    #10
                    Originally posted by woodturner
                    The Casio picture shows the striations caused by resolution limitations.

                    Seems like that would not work well for a sliding part such as the window glide in the next link - or maybe they are smoothing them after printing.
                    Wow! Almost $30 for that part after shipping! People must love their keyboards. I would have used a sheet of cardboard and black duct tape.

                    I found out today that with ABS, it is easy to smooth with acetone or sandpaper. I don't think the striations would hurt a slide part like that. Wouldn't it mean less contact points so less friction?

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