Anyone Ever Use Japanese Waterstones?

[phrog]

Just scored some Japanese waterstones on eBay. Just wondered if anyone has ever used Japanese waterstones and if you have any advice or tips. Thanks.

[jussi]

There different kinds. Some have to be soaked, some you can just spray with water. I have a set of shaptons (ceramic) and they're the only type I have personal experience with. They work great and are easy to use. I also have a shapton lapping stone that I use after every use. Just a few swipes before I put the stones away. You probably want to use some kind of holder when sharpening to keep the water from getting everywhere. I currently use a veritas stone pond but I eventually will make one from laminate so I can house all 3 stones. Also if it didn't come with some sort of plastic case it's a good idea to make or buy one. Last thing you want is for them to break when inside a drawer.

[leehljp]

I have some purchased in Japan and the ones that I bought need to be soaked in water. I bought a two or three holders while there too.

I haven't used them since being back home. When I get time . . .

I went to Seki City several times (home of the samarai swords) and it was interesting to watch the knife sharpening facility in one of the stores there. They kept about 6 or 7 stones in a bath of water with the water level just below the top of the stones. Two or three swipes on each stone down the line. One thing they did with the knives was to sharpen from one side only.

Here is a pict of one of the knives that I bought at that store:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ighlight=knife

[Carpenter96]

Once you have the initial tuning of your blades done, water stones work incredibly well and quickly.

Regards Bob

[phrog]

There different kinds. Some have to be soaked, some you can just spray with water. I have a set of shaptons (ceramic) and they're the only type I have personal experience with. They work great and are easy to use. I also have a shapton lapping stone that I use after every use. Just a few swipes before I put the stones away. You probably want to use some kind of holder when sharpening to keep the water from getting everywhere. I currently use a veritas stone pond but I eventually will make one from laminate so I can house all 3 stones. Also if it didn't come with some sort of plastic case it's a good idea to make or buy one. Last thing you want is for them to break when inside a drawer.

Thanks for the tips jussi. I'm going to Dollar Tree later this week to see if I can find some plastic "boxes" to store them in as you suggested. I hadn't thought about a lapping stone but will look into that too. Again, thanks.

[phrog]

I have some purchased in Japan and the ones that I bought need to be soaked in water. I bought a two or three holders while there too.

I haven't used them since being back home. When I get time . . .

I went to Seki City several times (home of the samarai swords) and it was interesting to watch the knife sharpening facility in one of the stores there. They kept about 6 or 7 stones in a bath of water with the water level just below the top of the stones. Two or three swipes on each stone down the line. One thing they did with the knives was to sharpen from one side only.

Here is a pict of one of the knives that I bought at that store:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ighlight=knife

I hope to visit there some day. Sounds interesting. I watched a documentary on Nova a year or so ago about Japanese sword makers - very interesting.

[phrog]

Once you have the initial tuning of your blades done, water stones work incredibly well and quickly.

Regards Bob

Does this mean that the coarse stone can be skipped after the initial sharpening?

[Bill in Buena Park]

Does this mean that the coarse stone can be skipped after the initial sharpening?

If by course you mean less than 2000, I would say yes, depending on whether you need to reshape edge to remove nicks, etc. How coarse do your stones go? Serious reshaping may need to start at 120.

Below 1000, I use the wet/dry paper on glass method, then my stones run 1000-8000. If rough not needed, I may tune up the edge starting at 2000.

[phrog]

If by course you mean less than 2000, I would say yes, depending on whether you need to reshape edge to remove nicks, etc. How coarse do your stones go? Serious reshaping may need to start at 120.

Below 1000, I use the wet/dry paper on glass method, then my stones run 1000-8000. If rough not needed, I may tune up the edge starting at 2000.

My stones are 800, 1500, and 6000.

[Bill in Buena Park]

My stones are 800, 1500, and 6000.

Richard, sounds like a good set, you may want to consider getting a 4000 stone to get you from 1500 to 6000, save you some elbow grease (and stone) with that 6000. And 6000 is likely the most you need right now. Here's some good information on water stones and grits: http://www.fine-tools.com/japwas.htm; scroll to the part about Which stones for what use.

[jussi]

Once I get it honed properly I only touch up the micro bevel with my highest grit. This assumes of course, you don't go too long between sharpenings. Just a few swipes is needed.

The shapton lapping stone is real expensive and if you don't want to spend that much there are companies that make diamond stones as wel. If you don't want to spend the money on a lapping stone right away you can also use sand paper on a known flat surface. *just make sure to wash away any grit left behind*

[Carpenter96]

Once properly honed I usually just go back to the higher grits but I'm just honing the micro bevel at this point. I find I can go quite a long time on just the micro bevel before I have to go back to the courser grits.

Regards Bob

[phrog]

Richard, sounds like a good set, you may want to consider getting a 4000 stone to get you from 1500 to 6000, save you some elbow grease (and stone) with that 6000. And 6000 is likely the most you need right now. Here's some good information on water stones and grits: http://www.fine-tools.com/japwas.htm; scroll to the part about Which stones for what use.

Bill, the link doesn't work for some reason. However, I did find it by clicking on "Sharpening Tools." Great info. Thanks.

[phrog]

Richard, sounds like a good set, you may want to consider getting a 4000 stone to get you from 1500 to 6000, save you some elbow grease (and stone) with that 6000. And 6000 is likely the most you need right now. Here's some good information on water stones and grits: http://www.fine-tools.com/japwas.htm; scroll to the part about Which stones for what use.

Once I get it honed properly I only touch up the micro bevel with my highest grit. This assumes of course, you don't go too long between sharpenings. Just a few swipes is needed.

The shapton lapping stone is real expensive and if you don't want to spend that much there are companies that make diamond stones as wel. If you don't want to spend the money on a lapping stone right away you can also use sand paper on a known flat surface. *just make sure to wash away any grit left behind*

What grit sandpaper do you use? Is the sandpaper grit relative to the stone grit?

[phrog]

Once properly honed I usually just go back to the higher grits but I'm just honing the micro bevel at this point. I find I can go quite a long time on just the micro bevel before I have to go back to the courser grits.

Regards Bob

Good idea. Thanks.