Craftsman Moulding Head Set

[trungdok]

A co-worker of mine told me he found an old dado blade and I can have it if I want. I said sure. Turns out, he had the Craftsman moulding head set. It's heavy and looks scary. I'm not going to use it on my table saw since I have no real need to. I'm just curious -- had anyone ever used this? Can you actually use it safely on a table saw?



Note: pic is from someone (wolfmanyoda) on another forum.

[mpc]

I haven't run one on a BT3x but I did use one many years ago on a small Sears or Delta contractor's table saw. Worked fine. Just like using big router bits, choice of wood species and taking small depth cuts at a time were needed. Pine didn't work too well - the results were full of tear-out. Oak though worked fine. Noisy too.

I've seen folks use them on a radial arm saw and THAT was scary. The blade rotation on radial saws makes the blade want to self-draw across the workpiece - the operator actually has to push on (resist) the motor+blade carriage assembly with normal blades; with dado blades or moulding sets there is a lot more (wider) blade digging into the workpiece making the carriage want to self-propel across the workpiece that much more.

I'd probably use a router over one of these setups whenever possible. On a BT3 saw I'd suggest small depth cuts at a time to lessen the load on the motor - these blade setups can take a wide bite. And, since the BT3's run a higher RPM that most table saws, verify the assembly is rated for the RPMs and that the assembly is pretty well balanced to minimize vibration and stresses on the saw arbor. It's probably a good idea to verify the setscrews are tight (holding the bits in place) every few minutes of use too (saw unplugged of course).

mpc

[tommyt654]

I had one once scared the bejesus outta me 1st time I used it, then got rid of it and used a router table

[greenacres2]

I love my RAS, and use it a lot for cross-cutting. But...i can't believe the motor take-off and the shaper kit were ever a selling point. I'm with Tommy--those cutterheads are the last thing i want to see in open space!!

Reminds me of the old saying "There's old race car drivers. There's bold race car drivers. But there's no old, bold race car drivers."

earl

[cabinetman]

A co-worker of mine told me he found an old dado blade and I can have it if I want. I said sure. Turns out, he had the Craftsman moulding head set. It's heavy and looks scary. I'm not going to use it on my table saw since I have no real need to. I'm just curious -- had anyone ever used this? Can you actually use it safely on a table saw?



Note: pic is from someone (wolfmanyoda) on another forum.

It works very well on a table saw with incremental depth cuts and a slow steady feed rate. You'll need to make a zero clearance insert sized for the moulding knives. If you have a Craftsman head, here is a site that has their own moulding heads and cutters that will also fit the Craftsman. They have a wide variety, and with them you can get knives to make profiles not available with router bits.

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[pelligrini]

I've got one too, always been leery of using it. I found it in a wood box that ended up in my garage full of old saw blades. (still never figured out who left the box in there). Looks like the previous owner used it very little, if at all.

[eezlock]

craftsman molding head set

I have that same molding head set, have used it when needed , and it works fine. I have found that most people are "scared" of these tools mostly because of the noise they make. If you follow a few safety precautions before starting a project with this tool, there should be no problem with them.

(1) use a zero tolerance throat plate, (2) make sure that all of the cutters are installed correctly in the head unit and locked down with allen wrench, (3) make the first cuts in your stock at a shallow depth then gradually increase the depth of cut as you proceed,(4) on lengthwise cuts, I use feather boards and push sticks to help keep the stock parallel to the fence and saw table itself, this really help to minimize the chance of stock being lifted by the blade. (5) take your time, no need to try and rush the
cut, you are removing a good amount of wood and you need all the control
while making this cut. (6) Forgot to mention,while using this blade on a table saw" NO riving knife/ splitter or blade guard."

This is a precision made, quality blade and if installed properly will work on most all table and radial arm saws as well with no problem. I used mine on the BT3100 and it works great! When you get used to it, you will find that
you can make all kinds of molding or modify cuts on existing stock molding that you purchased elsewhere by adding another additional profile with it.
Give it a try...you like it!























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[TCOTTLE]

I love mine, and use it on one of my BT3s. Slow steady AND incremental win the race.
-Tim