Hand Plane Advice

[RagerXS]

Been planning on building my first workbench, but reviewing plans revealed that I won't be able to flatten the top without a hand plane. I figure it was only a matter of time before I needed one anyway...

I don't have unlimited funds so the first place I'll look is an antique shop near me where I saw some old Stanley's. What should I look for and what types of plane(s) will I need?

TIA,
~ Fred

[jcjrsmith]

Two great places to start:

http://johnswoodshop.us/index.html
http://www.rexmill.com/

[Mainemarc]

Hi Fred,

Strickly speaking you'll need two: a smoother, say something like a #4 or # 4 1/2, and then a joiner, something like a #6 or #7. I'd say a #8 as well, but those can get very spendy.

You need the smoother to attack the high spots, and then the joiner to finish up the worktop to make every thing nice and level.

You could conceivably do a servicable job with just one plane, either a jack (#5) or a short joiner like a #6, but only if you are really patient and sight down the top quite often.

Be prepared to get quite a workout, but also be prepare to be amazed; planing a board is a sublime experience.

[Mainemarc]

PS:

Fred, I see you're in NH. Drop by at Saw Mill Creek and ask your question of Dave Anderson. He can recommend some good places to go rust hunting.

[Jim Boyd]

No need in foolin around wonderin which one to get, you might as well get ALL of them

[ChrisD]

Fred, I'm with Jim! [^] But I also agree with Marc that a jack and a jointer or fore plane will serve you well in a workbench project. With the kind of surface area you will be working with, you need all the heft you can get. However if your budget does not allow you to get both, you should be able to get by with a jack plane. And if you haven't already, you will need to develop some pretty sharp (pun intended) sharpening skills. What sharpening system to use is a whole other discussion.

Here's a couple of sites for your reference and source of encouragement!
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html
http://www.terraclavis.com/bws/beginners.htm

[Pappy]

At a minimum, you will need a #2, #3, #4, #4 1/2, #5, #5 1/4, #5 1/2, #6, #7, and #8 all Type 17 or earlier. A #40 Scrub plane would be helpful for the initial knock down of the high spots but you can work around it. Of course to produce a glass-smooth work surface, either a #12 or 12 1/2 scraper is a must![]

You will notice I didn't recommend a #1. They are too short to be of any real use and the tote is too small to grip for anyone older than 5. Should you get 'stuck' with one by an unscruppulous dealer, send it to me and I will make sure to drop it off at the scrap metal center on my mail route.[}]

Seriously, a #4 or 5 will do what you want to do and, IMHO, the type 16 or 17 are the best user planes. avoid the Type 20 or later Stanleys.

Be aware that there is a learning curve involved in using hand planes. They are also addictive. There is something relaxing about pushing a well tuned plane over a piece of wood and having thin curls of shavings fall around your feet.

[RagerXS]

Having taken one woodworking course the summer before last at a Woodcraft, I got to dabble with lots of tools I'd never used before through the project (Mission Mantel Clock). One of them was a nice hand plane and while it was readily apparent that I need to spend some time mastering the technique, the key word to note is 'need'. There was a relaxing feeling of working the wood, and there are things you can do with hand planes that just cannot be done or are way too cost prohibitive to be done any other way.

Thanks for all the help so far. I hope to go looking around this weekend...

~ Fred

[RickLab]

Pappy,

What do you think is better about the Type 16 and 17 planes that make them the best users?

thanks

[Pappy]

Actually I should have thought more before posting that. The 16's were made from '33 - '41. Earlier than that and you are more likely to find a lot of excessive wear and abuse/ravages of time.

The type 17 was made during the war era. Machining was reduced to save labor, resulting in a heavier, thicker body. This can be good if you have to work on the sole much to get it flat. The other change on these planes was a hard rubber covered, steel adjusting knob in place of the normal brass knob.

The type 19 ('48 - '61) is considered by some 'expertsg to be the last of the good Stanley planes. Others say it is the start of the decline in quality. All agree that quality control went south starting with the blue painted Type 20's.

[RickLab]

I see. I had been planning on finding some a little older than that (maybe 12's to 15's) and avoiding the war years - thanks for the heads up!

[germdoc]

During the war years a lot of the Stanley planes lost the frog set screw that allows you to fine-adjust the mouth. Not a big deal, in my opinion, cause who adjusts the frog mouth that often?

Most of my planes are older than Pappy's, and they can still be in good shape. My favorite is a 100-year-old Bedrock 605, with the round sides, which is better than almost any other Jack plane I've ever come across.

Speaking of which, Bedrock Stanleys are the creme de la creme. A Bedrock in good condition is a thing of beauty, and you should keep your eyes out for one at a good price.

[scmhogg]

Fred,

I know your question was about planes. However, you can use a router with rails and a sled to quickly flatten a large surface.



Steve

[w973]

What about a portable hand planer, more power . Every time I look up planers I get a whole bunch of these to come up and at pretty reasonbly prices (sometimes under $100). Has anyone used one of these?

Walt

[Tundra_Man]

quote:Originally posted by w973

What about a portable hand planer, more power . Every time I look up planers I get a whole bunch of these to come up and at pretty reasonbly prices (sometimes under $100). Has anyone used one of these?

Walt

They work well for taking shavings off the top of a door to make it fit better, but they're not good for "fine" woodworking.

Just purchased my first two planes (thanks Jeff!) and am looking forward to figuring out how to use them.