Saw blade choices?

[jeepman71]

I have been working on a router table extension to put on my Ridgid R4512. Just about done and will be moving on to an attached folding outfeed table. I have used the saw some and do enjoy it.

As to be expected the blade has a lot to be desired. With my Cman 21829 I used the Freud D1040X and was not unhappy with the overall cut quality of this blade. I did not think it stayed sharp very long.

I have been thinking about a WWII 40 tooth, what are your thoughts?

Jim

[Whaler]

I have the 40 tooth WWII on my DW746 and love it.

[Bruce Cohen]

I used to use a Freud standard kerf Premier blade, and while I found it great at both crosscuts and ripping, I switched over to a Forrest WW II.

If its possible to fall in love with a saw blade, I have.
Thinking of selling my freud 6" super dado and replacing it with a Forrest.

Bruce

[Sawatzky]

I have the Forrest WWII and it really is a great blade. But, a warning. Don't ever cut into a nail with one! The blade will be ruined if you do! DAMHIK

[Bruce Cohen]

I have the Forrest WWII and it really is a great blade. But, a warning. Don't ever cut into a nail with one! The blade will be ruined if you do! DAMHIK

Which is why I no longer use my Freud Premier.

[jeepman71]

Other than the expected improved cut one of the things I am looking at is the sharpening and hopefully saving some cash on not buying a new blade when they get dull. What should I expect the cost to be for this service?

Jim

[Bruce Cohen]

Other than the expected improved cut one of the things I am looking at is the sharpening and hopefully saving some cash on not buying a new blade when they get dull. What should I expect the cost to be for this service?

Jim

Forrest usually gives you a few $5.00 coupons for resharpening with the blade.

If you wait a few weeks, I'll let you know, as I probably due for one. Luckily, Forrest is only about 20 minutes from me, so I can drop it off.
If I remember correctly, their web site has the cost of resharpening on it. www.forrestblades.com

Bruce

[jeepman71]

Thanks Bruce, it looks like $21.00 for a 40 tooth plus $10.00 for shipping.

Jim

[pelligrini]

I've got a couple WW-II blades, a 30T and a 40T. They do work well, especially for folks who don't like changing blades like me.

You might check this thread too: http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=53832

[RodKirby]

Absolutely - WW II 40t

[vaking]

Looking at some blades at Amazon I stumbled across this review.

"1.0 out of 5 stars.
Not anymore they don't!!!, October 26, 2011
By Darthvagrant (Planet Earth) - See all my reviews. This review is from: Black & Decker 10" PIRANHA® 32T Saw Blade - Carded Part No. 77-740 (Misc.)
Description quote: "Fish hook gullet design removes chips more effectively; extremely sharp, curved carbide teeth eliminate tooth drag for a smoother, faster cut."
.
Yeah, that's what they USED to correctly claim. NO longer, however. Gone are the Black & Decker proprietary curved "Piranha" carbide blade tips. As such they were hands down the best blades on the market.
.
B&D Piranha blades now have small, STRAIGHT carbide tips, yet they still bear the "Piranha" name on the blade, but are nothing more than an ordinary Chinese blades, the likes of which can be acquired at any flea market or where cheap blades are sold.
.
Sadly, the original Piranha blades were truly a superior blade and a B&D exclusive. They have now evolved into an ordinary cheaply made blade widely available anywhere cheap blades are sold."

This review caught my attention because the blade I have on my BT3100 most of the time is B&D 32 teeth fast cut Piranha. Mine is not chinese, it was made in UK. Today B&D blades are made in China. I do have a universal 40T blade (not WWII) but Piranha that I have is better.
Anybody knows about those legendary blades and why they went into history?
Just curious.

[Knottscott]

Forrest now offers 3 versions of the WWII....30T, 40T, and 48T. All 3 are available in 3/32" thin kerf, and 1/8" full kerf. That saw will have an easier time spinning the TK....a full kerf is 33% wider. The 30T is notably more efficient at ripping than the 40T and is even fairly respectable at crosscuts, but the 40T does a bit better in fine cuts and ply. The 48T will compete better with the new Hi-ATB 40T blades like the Infinity Super General and Freud Fusion, which leave highly polished edges on rips and have extremely low tearout on fine crosscuts and ply.

FWIW, the Infinity Super General is the cleanest cutting 40T or 50T blade I've used to date. It's available in 3/32" thin kerf and 1/8" full kerf as well.

The Ridge Carbide TS2000 is every bit the equal of the 40T WWII and has even larger carbide to withstand more sharpenings. I don't recall ever getting sharpening coupons with the Forrest blades, but Ridge Carbide definitely included one. Comes in 3/32" thin kerf and 1/8" full kerf.

My pick would be to get two blades...the WWII 30T TK and add the Infinity 60T Hi-ATB 010-060 blade. It's kind of a hybrid approach that combines the philosophies of a single all purpose blade and separate task specific blades. It'll extend the optimum operating range in which you'll get stellar cuts. Both are quite versatile and either can be left on the saw as a general purpose blade for most cuts. Use the 30T when you're favoring thicker ripping. Use the 60T when you're favoring finer cuts. Otherwise you can use whichever blade happens to be in the saw. Total cost is ~ $160, but you'll get better results, will still enjoy many of the benefits of a single blade, and the combination of blades will get longer edge life than a single blade too.

[jeepman71]

Thanks for the information everybody.

Knottscott, that is a lot of information and something to think about.

Pelligrini, I bought one of the Onsrud blades for my miter saw. It seems like a pretty decent blade. Has anyone used these on a table saw and how would you rate them?

Jim

[jeepman71]

Aww look Mom I'm a big boy now. No more forum newbie.

[pelligrini]

Thanks for the information everybody.

Knottscott, that is a lot of information and something to think about.

Pelligrini, I bought one of the Onsrud blades for my miter saw. It seems like a pretty decent blade. Has anyone used these on a table saw and how would you rate them?

Jim

Knottscott usually always has some good info. His opinions on sawblades are pretty well respected. My first WWII was a 30T (there was a good sale going on). If I need really smooth crosscuts I'll use my dewalt 80T. I picked up a 40T WWII to be able to do a bit smoother crosscuts without changing the blade (It was also on sale too ). Like Knottscott mentioned I do notice a big difference between the two when ripping, especially thicker material or easily burnable maple. I'll leave the 30T on the saw most of the time.

I haven't tried an Onsrud blade. I was going to get a couple, then I had to send all my money to the IRS. I was judging them by the info in the linked thread above and on some info from another forum. There should be quite a few that have some experience with them now.