Radial Arm Saw choices...

[greenacres2]

Considering picking up a 10" RAS, have been nosing for a few months. Got a pair under consideration at the moment, both are about 60 miles away so i've only seen pictures so far, but there's no signs of rust or damage in those. Have spoken to both owners who seem like decent folk on the phone.

1. Dewalt #7749, type 1--completely intact except missing the top. Said to run well. Asking $75 and includes new 40 and 60 tooth blades--couldn't recall the maker.

2. Craftsman 113.197150--nice looking saw, having a decent top really adds to the cosmetics!! On a mobile base with locking casters, another plus. Has on "optional" drum sanding attachment off the right side of the motor which is interesting--I've not found a list of possible accessories--if any--that might also fit that connection port. No full guard installed, but is eligible for the free upgrade. Also said to run & cut well. Asking $125.

Opinions are welcome and appreciated. Thanks.
earl

[BigguyZ]

I will say that the free recall kit for the Craftsman is impressive. The top is 1" thick MDF.

I would ask this- why a RAS over a MS or SMS? I have a RAS, and it's nice for crosscuts, but I feel that a good MS is just as good, if not better. My brother bought a Delta dual bevel 12" MS several years back, and the thing is awesome. Granted, the RAS would be better for larger pieces, but for 97% of the work I need to do, the MS is just fine. And since it's on an old Rigid mobile base, it's mobile, compact when stored, and can easily be taken to a job site to do carpentry work (the dual bevel is the best for doing cuts in crown molding).

[Daryl]

I had the Sears saw. There is a threaded shaft from the motor on the right side. You can put the sanding drums, router collet, drill chuck and other like threaded attachments. It was too fast to drill, too slow for a router and hard to use as a drum sander as the motor would be in way. I had lots of problems with the motor starter packing with saw dust and with the sander right there it was even worse. I was constantly pulling the end cover to clean it out. If you get it, you should be able to get the blade guard update.

[toolguy1000]

i can't speak to the DW, but the older they are, the better they seem to be thought of. the same goes for c-man. 50s, 60s and early 70s are usually the best regarded as they are CI column, column support and track arm. units with clamp together column support are usually not as well regarded as the older CI units. the c-man you referenced is a "newer", column clamp together unit, of more recent vintage.

i have a 60s vintage 10" c-man RAS and it performs very well. it just doesn't like to be moved around all that much, nor to i swing the overhead arm for making miter cuts. i use a "set it and forget it" approach.

[tommyt654]

Hows about his 1, http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/tls/2849758926.html , I use my RAS for lots of things.but mainly dado's and crosscuts on large wide lumber, something a MS or SMS will not cut most of the time due to width restrictions, best to have 1 of each or in my case 2

[greenacres2]

My MS (old iron c-man) will cross-cut 5 1/2", and i could use wider at times. Adding the dado cut without having to mess with the BT3000 blade has appeal, all be it at the risk of fingers. I'd forgotten about the new top that comes with the guard--if DeWalt had that offer i'd spend $50 less for 15 miles closer!!

Daryl--that's good info. The idea sounded a little gimmicky to me when he talked about it, and i gotta say the pictures make it look awkward to use. I'm pretty bold, but from the pics i don't think i'd be courageous enough to hang a dirll or router bit out there!!

Thanks Toolguy--your words will be taken under advisement. Again, i'm looking mostly at crosscut and dado cuts, and my thought is to slide it into the center of a workbench at the same height so i've got stock support--would keep it mostly stationary. Same for either saw.

I saw that ad Tommy, that one gets even farther away--on the edge of packing a lunch. The whole thought of heading into the South Suburbs is spooky for an Indiana farm boy!!

Thanks for the input--helps clear the mind a bit.

earl

[tommyt654]

Understood Earl, Pack a gun an go for it,I have a similiar model shown below thats a great saw I bought for $90 as I recall and thats a great model and judging by the looks in dang fine shape + he already came down $20 off his original price , offer a c-note and go pick it up. It would be well worth the travel time if in good condition. I traveled 160 miles roundtrip Sat to get an older Rockwell planer for $300 that was well worth the time (5 hrs) and money for a vintage tool that ,well fankly is made like a tank(350 lb backbreaker) and will outlast me that all it really is gonna need is some minor clean-up and fresh paint to have it in perfect condition. That old iron is getting harder to come by and trust me when I say better built than anything currently on the market in this price range.Glad you found the Ridgid bushing set as well. Make that link a favorite as everyone else here should so when these deals do pop up you can do a quick search and save some bucks. Either way enjoy whichever tool you decide to get
Tommy

[greenacres2]

Sent the folks with the Blue DeWalt an e-mail this morning, no reply yet. Ran across the article below in my searches and thought somebody might find it interesting:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/dewaltrebuild.pdf

I got a kick out of his mention of the robin's egg blue color. I learned a bunch just skimming it, and have saved to my computer now.

earl

[greenacres2]

How about...

Still no word back from the one tommy sent, but i widened my search a bit. Swapped e-mail with a guy who has a pretty complete 925H this morning, here's a link to the photo gallery:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1094827...8675103/Dewalt

No price listed, he said to look at the pics and make an offer on the package. He'll consider, but reluctant to separate. I'm not likely to use most of what's there, but i believe that there is merit in keeping it all together. It's about 120 miles away, but he'd meet halfway to deliver, which helps.

Definitely a classic, cast iron machine. I'm thinking that the saw should be around $125, cabinet $75, $50-$75 for the rest?? Thanks!!
earl

[toolguy1000]

just remember the golden rule of negotiating. he who mentions a number first loses.

[cwsmith]

I have a 1973 Craftsman which I purchased "new" back then. It's been my favorite tool. DeWalt of course was the inventor of sorts and certainly the first to commercially build and market the RAS. But, I've never quite warmed to the many units that I've seen, although I did learn on a DeWalt back when I was in highschool.

At one time there were dozens of accessories for the RAS... too many IMHO! From my experience, you can leave most accessories alone and just use the RAS for what it is really spectacular at: Crosscutting!

I have a CMS, but frankly nothing cuts precision bevel and compound angles as efficiently or as accurately as a RAS. I can use the same blade (brand and style) on my CMS as I do my RAS... the former is finicky and you need to take great pains to ensure accuracy, but with the RAS, I simply set it up, set the homemade fence stop and I can cut any number of pieces quickly and accurately.

For that reason alone, the RAS will be a much appreciated tool. In my little shop it is an essential piece!

I should mention that I do have the drum sander attachment and a holddown bar... I don't use either. As far as the lower-blade guard (the reason for the infamous recall) is concerned, my 1973 model doesn't have a retrofit. They (Sears or Emerson Electric) offered $100 for the return of the motor/yoke assembly... but my RAS is much too valuable to me to let it go. I learned on an RAS without a lower guard and knowing the dangers, I don't find it essential. (For whatever my opinion is worth.)

Good luck and enjoy your RAS with safety,

CWS

[greenacres2]

Seller mentioned a number first--fair, but not in my league. He was looking for $500 for the package, $400 for the saw/cabinet alone, $50 less if he didn't meet me halfway. Not unreasonable, but for where i am in life and hobby--i'm trying to stay in the $100 range and recognize there may be some sacrifice.

CW--i've looked at the blade guard kits for these, the guard on my BT3000 and CMS, router tables, tools in stores, etc. I have yet to see one that would really keep a finger out for certain. I'm a lousy guitar player, but i'd sure like to keep trying!!

Working on another C-man, will keep you posted. Thanks again to all for your help.
earl

[cabinetman]

I've had both, and parts for the Craftsman are more easily attained. If not parts, whole saws can be found for parts.

.

[tommyt654]

I'd laugh and hang up on $500, maybe $125-150 but no more, Guys like that think they are really valuable and hard to come by and they really aren't, ya just gotta keep lookin, maybe that other guy will call today, If so I would take a peek at it and negotiate down a little for your time and gasIf he won't negotiate and its in good shape GRAB IT and never look back as these are great RAS's

[cabinetman]

I'd laugh and hang up on $500, maybe $125-150 but no more, Guys like that think they are really valuable and hard to come by and they really aren't, ya just gotta keep lookin, maybe that other guy will call today, If so I would take a peek at it and negotiate down a little for your time and gas

+1. The most I ever paid for a 10", was $125. It was new, with the stand, assembled.

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