Building a resawing bandsaw?

[cgallery]

I have a nice benchtop bandsaw that is great for curves, and I've resawed up to 7". The motor is only 1/2-HP, so 7" resaw in harder woods is kinda slow going. But it is doable.

From time to time, though, I'd like something taller than 7". And I'd like to move faster through the wood.

But I don't want a huge (heavy) bandsaw.

Seeing as I don't need a wide throat (I'll keep my other saw for curves, etc), I was thinking of ditching the conventional "C" shaped frame for an "I." Basically, a straight piece of wood (or maybe steel) between the top and bottom wheels, providing a 2" or 3" throat for sawing planks and veneers.

And maybe using flange bearings (like in the photo) on both sides of my "I" support to accommodate axles for the wheels.

Am I completely insane?

I'd use wheels I'd purchase from eBay or somewhere, I wouldn't make my own. I'd just need wheels compatible with my goals, which is something with a bore that is compatible with off-the-shelf flange bearings.

And I'd need to figure out a device for tension. I've looked at the woodgears.ca bandsaw but I think I have some simpler ideas.

Anyway, back to, am I completely nuts?

I can afford a big bandsaw. I just don't want to give up the space, or wrestle with the thing if I want to move it.

BTW, does anyone know the bore diameter of Delta 12" and 14" wheels?

[phi1l]

Can you get a riser block for your saw? That would add about 6" or so.

[cgallery]

Can you get a riser block for your saw? That would add about 6" or so.

Nope. It is a cast aluminum saw, and the motor is somewhat specific to the saw as well (no way to upgrade). Although I did think of taking a spare motor and sending it in to be re-wound (the frame is large enough to go 1-HP, I'd think).

And I'd sorta like to keep one saw setup for resawing, and another for lighter work, too.

[BrazosJake]

Anyway, back to, am I completely nuts?

I think you definitely have too much time on your hands.

I don't see how your "I" frame design would save any space, the diameter of the wheels will dictate width.

[SARGE..g-47]

Problems with wheel balance.. designing tension... purchase of bearings and height adjuster guides.. motor.. pullies.. a sufficient backframe that will not flex.. a tracking method.. and the list goes on.

You would save a lot of time.. effort and money by simply purchasing a used 14" or larger BS on CL. As stated.. you won't save any floor space by building a re-saw bandsaw with no gaurantee it will work properly once built. An up-grade to at least a 14" would serve both re-saw and curves.

Great thoughts but not practical IMO..

Regards...

[cgallery]

I think you definitely have too much time on your hands.

I don't see how your "I" frame design would save any space, the diameter of the wheels will dictate width.

Agreed, but I'm more concerned with weight than size.

[Rich P]

My Delta 14" has been on a HTC mobile base for 30 years and rolls out of the way very easily. I have not put a riser block in as yet (hoping to get a RBS <really big saw> when we move to the foothills and I can get a proper shop).

[woodturner]

Seeing as I don't need a wide throat (I'll keep my other saw for curves, etc), I was thinking of ditching the conventional "C" shaped frame for an "I." Basically, a straight piece of wood (or maybe steel) between the top and bottom wheels, providing a 2" or 3" throat for sawing planks and veneers.

That's an interesting idea. If I am understanding correctly, you are proposing to mount the wheels between two posts, with bearings on both sides. This would provide a very rigid structure, potentially more rigid than a C frame style can reasonably be. This should eliminate many of the issues common to C frame bandsaws - striations caused by frame flexing, etc.

Guilliom Manufacturing (GILLIOM MANUFACTURING, P O Box 1018, Saint Charles, MO 63302-1018, Phone: 636-724-1812) used to sell plans and a parts kit for a wood bandsaw you could adapt.

The other advantage of this approach is that the "footprint" could be small so it wouldn't take up much shop space.

[BrazosJake]

Agreed, but I'm more concerned with weight than size.

What Rich and Sarge said.

A decent mobile base makes the biggest BS easy to move. My Ridgid has been rolling around on a shop made base for over 6 years, though I still have an extra Herculift in the box.

I have a riser, but have never needed anything wider than 6". Like Rich, I'm saving pennies for an RBC of 18" or bigger.

Weight is your friend. It dampens vibration, and, if you're going to be resawing big, thick, timbers, keeps your machine from tipping. A light machine would lack the strength to tension a blade.

If you're really into this diy and portability thing, maybe you should check out one of the multitude of portable bandmill plans. But be prepared to take up metal working and welding, because wood construction won't cut it.