First Time router user

[Relative]

To keep the bit from bottoming out, put an O-ring in the bottom of the collet. You can just drop in the bit and tighten it. The O-ring will cushion the bottom.

Mike

[SARGE..g-47]

To keep the bit from bottoming out, put an O-ring in the bottom of the collet. You can just drop in the bit and tighten it. The O-ring will cushion the bottom.

Mike

O-ring.... C-L-E-V-E-R !

Thanks as I do believe I will add one on each router tomorrow. That will actually save a few seconds every bit change. Every second counts in the long haul.. especially when you start getting old.

[L. D. Jeffries]

Well here's what works for me. If the bit sticks after you slightly loosen the collet nut (which normally would release the bit) just using the collet nut wrench loosen it a bit more. That will push out the bit without prying or whatever. Sometimes a bit of gunk/sawdust will make the bit shank stick.

[RayintheUK]

You don't need new collets, you just need to operate the ones you've got correctly. As has already been said, once the wrench goes "slack," keep undoing until it tightens, then goes "slack" again. The bit is now free to be removed. DO NOT remove any cutter by grasping the cutting edges - if it's NOT free, you'll slice your fingers.

I did a page about basic router operation and safety a while back - it's here if you get the time.

Ray

[cabinetman]

You don't need new collets, you just need to operate the ones you've got correctly. DO NOT remove any cutter by grasping the cutting edges - if it's NOT free, you'll slice your fingers.

Ray

Excellent advice. I've cut my fingers more than once. I don't have the router in question, so I'll address the problem which may apply to other routers. There are many different configurations of how a bit can be retained. With some routers, the nut will back out completely. The bit may be held in a sleeve and come out with the nut, or if the nut is off, the sleeve may be stuck, while holding the bit shank. Others may have just the nut that holds the bit shank in a shaped collet.

Usually a slight tap on the body of the bit (not the cutting edge) will break the sleeve loose from the collet. The bit can be removed from the sleeve by tapping the bottom, while stopping the sleeve. If this is done, care should be taken not to damage the sleeve. A soldering gun can heat the sleeve which may expand it enough to release the bit. Lubricants and penetrants should not be sprayed on the shank as overspray may enter the motor housing.
.

[knobcreekman]

You don't need new collets, you just need to operate the ones you've got correctly. As has already been said, once the wrench goes "slack," keep undoing until it tightens, then goes "slack" again. The bit is now free to be removed. DO NOT remove any cutter by grasping the cutting edges - if it's NOT free, you'll slice your fingers.

I did a page about basic router operation and safety a while back - it's here if you get the time.

Ray

thanks for the link to your article; i will definitely check it out. and thanks for the tips you and everyone else have provided, but my collet doesn't work that way. i have to completely remove the entire collet assembly with the bit still in it and then tap the bit out from the bottom. My collet never goes "slack" or releases the bit. Also, I have to use all of my 290 lbs over the top of my router to get the bit actually in the collet when the nut is completely loose, so I'm thinking that there might be something wrong with it.

[knobcreekman]

I did a page about basic router operation and safety a while back - it's here if you get the time.

Just wanted to say a dedicated thanks for the article. THANKS! I just finished reading it and it was very helpful with excellent illustrations

[JimD]

I looked at RayintheUK's page too - it is good.

I have two PC routers, it's the older mid-sized router but I am forgetting the number right now. The older of my two has the pre-self releasing collet and the newer one has self releasing collets. I actually prefer the older design. I do not like to have to turn the wrenches the extra half turn to get the collet to release. As long as the router bit shank is not corroded and there is nothing in the collet (other than an O-ring, I do that too), the bit will come out with easy finger tugging.

I have had bits stick in my PC router and also an older, bigger, Ryobi router. When that occurs, I clean the corrosion off the shank and collet if necessary and they will work well again. Lubing may be useful but I would clean them up first. I've had to take the collet off and tap the bit out. I have also been lazy and pulled a bit out with pliers but that is really bad with respect to risk of chipping the carbide. If I keep my bits and collets clean and free of corrosion, I do not need to do these things.

If the collet and router bit are clean (not visually, use sandpaper), then I would agree there is an issue with the collet.

Jim

[knobcreekman]

i will give it a good cleaning when i get home and see if that helps. hopefully it will... plus i've got to put that dado jig on my short list... that thing looks like my kind of project... simple, quick, and accurate

[RayintheUK]

... but my collet doesn't work that way. i have to completely remove the entire collet assembly with the bit still in it and then tap the bit out from the bottom. My collet never goes "slack" or releases the bit. Also, I have to use all of my 290 lbs over the top of my router to get the bit actually in the collet when the nut is completely loose, so I'm thinking that there might be something wrong with it.

That is not at all normal! The self-releasing type of collet looks like these pics:

Top view



Bottom view



I've had a hunt around and found this parts diagram for your router. The collet (36) appears to be of the same type.

The collet is in two parts, the nut and the sleeve (with the slits in). They are supposed to be an assembly, with the sleeve remaining snapped into the nut AT ALL TIMES. If they are not an assembly, as described and shown above, there's the problem.

Please confirm if your ½" and ¼" collets look similar to the pictures and we'll take it from there. Please remember I'm on UK time!

Ray

[knobcreekman]

The collet is in two parts, the nut and the sleeve (with the slits in). They are supposed to be an assembly, with the sleeve remaining snapped into the nut AT ALL TIMES. If they are not an assembly, as described and shown above, there's the problem.

i haven't used the 1/4" one yet, but after I removed the bit from the 1/2" one I did have to snap the internal sleeve back into the collet nut... it didn't come all the way out of the collet nut but it had slid over a "lip" on the inside.

Please confirm if your ½" and ¼" collets look similar to the pictures and we'll take it from there. Please remember I'm on UK time!

Ray

Mine look like this

thanks again for everyone's help

[Mr__Bill]

Could the collet have been tightened without a bit in it? This would have damaged it making it very hard to insert and remove the bit. If I recall correctly you said it was a reconditioned router, the damaged collet may have been missed when it went through the reconditioning/repackaging.

Try a 1/4 inch bit in the 1/4" collet and see if you have the same problem. If you don't have a 1/4" bit a quality 1/4" drill bit can be used to test but don't turn the router on with it in it.

If the nut does not turn freely try a little white grease on the threads.


Bill

[knobcreekman]

yeah the collets definitely look well used so that could be it. i'll try the 1/4" drill bit in the other collet since I don't have any 1/4" router bits. if i get a chance, i'll try and take and post a picture of the ones I have to see if there's any discernable defect in them.

[RayintheUK]

... after I removed the bit from the 1/2" one I did have to snap the internal sleeve back into the collet nut... it didn't come all the way out of the collet nut but it had slid over a "lip" on the inside.

Mine look like this

Right - that confirms the collet type which, as suspected, is the two-part assembly "self-releasing" style.

You don't say whether snapping the sleeve back into the nut has effected a cure. If it hasn't, I'd agree with Bill that the nut was probably tightened onto an empty collet, thus damaging the sleeve. Replace the whole collet assembly (the bit in your picture).

Ray

[knobcreekman]

oh yeah... sorry I forgot to mention that it did not remedy the problem. looks like i'm off to spend $20 on collets