Removing A Pulley From A Drive Shaft

[crokett]

I started tearing into the PM66 tonight and it is going to need a lot more work than I estimated. The belts are shot and need replacing, and there is more rust than I thought, right down to the pulley on the motor. I pulled the motor and loosened the set screws but need to get the pulley off so I can derust it and repaint. I tried a gentle crowbar but the drive shaft moved along its axis a little with the pulley. Should I just get an Auto Zone gear puller? It is a standard pulley in a keyway.

[eezlock]

removing a pulley......

Yes, get a gear puller. I would also soak that shaft, real well over night with a
good quality penetrating lubricant. Since you already have the motor removed from the saw, stand it up on end, support it with some wooden blocks to keep it from falling over and pour in the penetrating oil around the shaft and let it
work in really well before attempting to pull it off the shaft.

[Black wallnut]

Yup a two or three jaw puller will make removal quick and painless, or at least it should. YMMV

[Uncle Cracker]

Yeah, you can borrow the tool at AZ. If you slather with penetrant, put a paper towel around the shaft to keep the fluid from running into the motor housing.

[crokett]

Thanks. I will get the bearing puller tomorrow. now the next thing is to figure out how to disassemble the motor carriage and take it out for cleaning/lubing.

[Mr__Bill]

You can also support the pulley with the motor on the bottom and then rap on the shaft with hammer and block of wood to drive it out. Once it's moving it will move fast so have something to catch the motor. After you have let it soak over night of course.

If you decide to go with the puller, put pressure on it and then rap it with a hammer, if you just try to pull it of you risk damaging the pulley.



Bill
i can fix anything, i have a 15lb hammer!

[cabinetman]

Once you get the pulley off, clean the shaft/keyway/key, and the inner surface of the pulley hole with either bronze wool or a microfiber pad. Steel wool can leave residue that can rust. Use a very thin coat of machine oil or vaseline on the surfaces before reinstalling.
.

[phrog]

I had to do the same thing on an antique shaper I was working on. Bought a gear puller at HF for about $3. Used a lot of penetrating lubricant as eezlock suggested. It came off easily after letting the lub work overnight and using the gear puller.

[crokett]

Hmm... for 14 bucks HF has the same puller I picked up at Auto Zone. At AZ it is free. Of course they charge me for it then refund the money when I brig it back.

[woodturner]

Should I just get an Auto Zone gear puller?

Maybe. The crankshaft pulley on many Chrysler engines has to be removed to change the timing belt. The pulleys are often stuck - so stuck, that if a 3-jaw puller is used, the flanges break off the pulley, ruining it. The preferred removal method for that application is to use small pry bars to remove the pulley. There is enough space to reach in behind the pulley with the pry bars and lever the thicker hub of the pulley against the engine block.

So, if your pulley is really stuck, be careful of breaking or bending the pulley with the 3-jaw puller. One option might be to make a wood or metal piece to fit behind the pulley and bear only on the hub, and then attach the puller arms to that piece rather than to the pulley flanges.

Regarding penetrants, Break-Free is the absolute most effective "penetrating oil" we have found. Unlike the others, BF chemically converts the rust and corrosion to liquid that runs out of the joint. It's available in the gun department at Dick's.

http://break-free.com/?location=/products/index.asp

[RAFlorida]

+1 with WoodTurner.

I broke the flange on a pulley and know first hand that you gotta be carefull how much pressure to apply to the puller. Best to hit it with a mallet as you turn the puller bolt.

[Black wallnut]

If it does not move with modest pressure on the pressure screw with a combination wrench then you are much better off getting and using a bearing seperator than trying impacting the pressure screw. Or simply apply heat.

[phrog]

I had to do the same thing on an antique shaper I was working on. Bought a gear puller at HF for about $3. Used a lot of penetrating lubricant as eezlock suggested. It came off easily after letting the lub work overnight and using the gear puller.

I just looked up the number (off the box) on the HF website for the gear puller I bought for $3 and the number shows "No Longer Available." Sorry about that.

[crokett]

Forgot to mention, I got the gear puller from Auto Zone and the pulley came off fairly easily. Now I realize I should have marked the location before I took it off. Oh well.

[cgallery]

Forgot to mention, I got the gear puller from Auto Zone and the pulley came off fairly easily. Now I realize I should have marked the location before I took it off. Oh well.

Didn't the set screw leave a divot?