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In the instruction manual it says that I should adjust the kerf boards so that they rest against the edge of the blade. I was told this prevents tear-out but to me this will cut into the plastic kerf boards which I'm not sure I like. I would rather stay with the factory set alignment of the kerf boards - would that be a big deal ?
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If you don't mind tearout than no, it wouldn't be a big deal. I disagree with the manual about the "resting against the edge of the blade" suggestion. I would put a piece or two of tape on some of the blades teeth and move the inserts to a point where they touch the teeth. After you remove the tape you'll have enough clearance so that the teeth don't touch the insert but will still basically have a zero clearance insert._________________________
"Have a Great Day, unless you've made other plans" -
Would it be a big deal? Of course not... a big deal is losing your job and having your house fore-closed on.. etc. The saw will operate fine if you leave them in the shelf position but... you simply defeat the purpose of having a kerf board to begin with. Basically a kerf board serves the same purpose as a zero clearance face-plate to avoid blow-out or splintering on the exit end of your blade which travels up on your miter saw.
Keep in mind your kerf board is plastic and it if touches the blade.. so what. On my Hitachi SCMS the kerf board (Hitachi used a different term and configuration) comes solid. You slide the saw into it to cut the path that gives you a basic plastic zero clearance plate. Blades cut plastic with ease.
So.. sounds to me you are in love with your new saw and don't want to alter the show room cosmetic appearance with a scratch. That is fine if you strive for a show shop but... the reality is if you intend to actually build something the machine's original beautification does not contribute one plus toward getting the job done!
Have fun with your saw.. I have used that model and it is excellent.Comment
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Putting the kerf boards close to the edge of the blade is great for reducing tearout. The kerf boards's position probably needs to change, however, if you do any bevel cuts. The angle of saw head coming down would chop into boards set close enough to the blade to help with tearout on a 90 degree cut.
An alternative to adjusting the kerf boards, is to make a zero clearance insert. You can either secure it with the original screws for the kerf boards, or, if you want to be a little fancier, you can use magnets to hold it in place so that you can quickly exchange the insert if you are doing bevel cuts.
I keep one on my slider almost all the time. It is made out of some scrap maple to fit the opening, then just cut the kerf, like on Sarge's saw. If I can remember when I get home, I'll take a picture.
Another thing that helps with tearout is to install a fence board. Just a chunk of plywood or MDF attached to your regular fence, either with screws or carpet tape, and then cut through it. This keeps the wood from tearing out on the back of the cut. Of course, this cut is only good for one miter angle. I have a couple that I use for common miter angles that I use. If there is an odd angle, I can either throw another piece of wood up there, or can slide apart the fence sections with the fence board attached, if I don't care as much about tearout.
The other big thing that helps with tearout is a clean, sharp blade. You also need to make sure you don't force the head of the saw sideways, during the cut.Comment
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