Steaming wood

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  • jussi
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 2162

    #1

    Steaming wood

    This was suggested in another thread and I wanted to get some opinions on how to build the jig. I was thinking of just using 4" S&D pipes and capping both ends. Then attach the steamer to one end and poke a hole on the other.

    Who's made one and what materials did you use? How did you attach the steamer? Is it permanently attached or can you take it apart and use it on other things? Did you need to insulate the pipe somehow? Any tips/tricks you have?

    Pics?
    Last edited by jussi; 01-15-2010, 09:50 PM.
    I reject your reality and substitute my own.
  • phi1l
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2009
    • 681
    • Madison, WI

    #2
    I can't find it now, but a few years ago I remember seeing a pretty nice looking set up on the web. It was made from 8" galvanized air ducting. It had wires through the sides so that it could hold 3 layers of wood off the surface. The unit was capped at both ends, & insulated to retain the heat, & was tilted slightly to let the condensate flow out. Steam was generated using an old pressure cooker & there was tubing from the pressure relief on the PC to the Seaming unit.

    I have always wanted to build one, but have never gotten around to it

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    • phrog
      Veteran Member
      • Jul 2005
      • 1796
      • Chattanooga, TN, USA.

      #3
      The June 2001 (No 49) issue of FWW has an article entitled "Take the Mystery Out of Steam Bending." It starts on p78 and goes thru p83. It has a number of pictures and photos. Might be of interest to you if your local library has a copy. Also, the Sept. 1978 issue (No 10) has an article called "Hot Pipe Bending" which mught be useful but I believe the more recent issue would be more appropriate for what you want.
      Richard
      Richard

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      • phrog
        Veteran Member
        • Jul 2005
        • 1796
        • Chattanooga, TN, USA.

        #4
        Addendum to earlier post:
        The author of the article in FWW uses 3/4" exterior plywood to make a box and uses dowels for racks. He suggests not using metal because it may turn the wood black. PVC, he says will sag and also allows a lot of heat to escape. He bores several 1/4" holes in the wooden box to allow access for a thermometer and to allow the steam to circulate. Additionally, the box is tilted away from the steamer and a hole at the low end allows the escape of moisture. He used an electric kettle steamer in his demonstration. He got it from Lee Valley and it came with an extra long spout which he connected to the high end of his steambox. The box temp must be maintained at or above 200 degrees F throughout. It has to be steamed one hour per inch of thickness. I wish I could be more helpful but I haven't built mine yet.
        Richard
        Last edited by phrog; 01-15-2010, 06:41 PM. Reason: Addition
        Richard

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        • tseavoy
          Established Member
          • May 2009
          • 200
          • Nordland, Marrowstone Island, Washington
          • Older 9 inch Rockwell Delta (1960?)

          #5
          I have made a simple steamer by making a wooden box out of scrap wood, drilling a hole in the middle of the underside, and placing it over a pot of water which is fired by a propane crab cooker. The wood to be steamed is just set over spacers in the bottom of the box.

          Tom on Marrowstone Island

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          • JoeyGee
            Veteran Member
            • Nov 2005
            • 1509
            • Sylvania, OH, USA.
            • BT3100-1

            #6
            Nahm did some steam bending in his hat rack episode:

            http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?910

            His setup sounds very similar to what you are looking at doing. I would think S&D would be too thin. Sched 40 should work, though. One of these days I want to get around to doing that.
            Joe

            Comment

            • atgcpaul
              Veteran Member
              • Aug 2003
              • 4055
              • Maryland
              • Grizzly 1023SLX

              #7
              Try to find this article:

              http://www.woodstore.net/howtostwoand.html

              Russ uses a green PVC pipe he picked up from a construction zone near the school. Using a propane ring burner, he heats a new metal gas can that holds the water. A sturdy hose from the can to the pipe moves the steam and allows condensate to fall back into the can. He drilled holes in the pipe and has metal wire gong through to act as shelves in the pipe. A wooden cap loosely covers the end of the pipe.

              Before he steams, he soaks his wood in a pipe filled with water for several hours. Sometimes he adds fabric softener to the soaking water to allow water absorption into the wood fibers.

              I've seen it in action and it works pretty well.

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