TS Fence Faces

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  • bmuir1616
    Forum Newbie
    • Dec 2008
    • 28

    #1

    TS Fence Faces

    I just upgraded to a Ridgid R4511 TS. I am going to put faces on the fence.

    I plan on using Birch plywood. Should I:

    A. Leave the faces unfinished?
    B. Coat the plywood faces front and back with a couple of coats of poly?
    C. Cover the faces with some plastic laminate I have left over?

    One other question: When mounting the faces, how much room should I leave between the bottom of the face and the TS top?

    Thanks for the help.

    Bill
  • RodKirby
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2002
    • 3136
    • Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
    • Mao Shan TSC-10RAS

    #2
    AT LEAST poly and wax - similar to a router fence - or something like this (aluminum channel)...

    Re your question: A poofteenth (technical term for "just a little")

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    Downunder ... 1" = 25.4mm

    Comment

    • Bob Crosley
      Established Member
      • Aug 2003
      • 178
      • Valrico, Florida.

      #3
      I would vote for C, as I think that has the greatest chance of offering you a smooth, flat face. And I would suggest, "as little room as possible" on the gap between the saw top and fence, as you don't want the chance that small or thin pieces could get bound up by the gap.

      Comment

      • Tom Slick
        Veteran Member
        • May 2005
        • 2913
        • Paso Robles, Calif, USA.
        • sears BT3 clone

        #4
        I also vote for C unless you are going to make it sacrificial. My fence face is HDPE, it works great.
        Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison

        Comment

        • cabinetman
          Gone but not Forgotten RIP
          • Jun 2006
          • 15216
          • So. Florida
          • Delta

          #5
          My vote is for "C" also. As for any gap, just a very slight bevel to clear the table. To keep thin materials like laminate from sliding under the fence, a strip of hardboard or plywood (1/8" to 1/4") or a larger section just set down on the blade to the fence setting will raise thin materials high enough, and also provide a ZC. A stop mounted on the bottom rear will catch on the saw table and keep it from moving forward.
          .

          Comment

          • Tom Miller
            Veteran Member
            • Mar 2003
            • 2507
            • Twin Cities, MN
            • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

            #6
            Not sure what the profile of the Ridgid fence looks like -- do you have any interest in making the face taller than the the rest? If so, the BB ply is the way to go. And, to answer your question, a couple coats of poly followed by a good waxing will keep your workpieces moving very smoothly.

            Concerning how much space to leave between face and table. One approach is to just make it flush with the existing fence bottom. Or, you could build in a little slop, uh, tolerance, in how it attaches to the fence, then set the height with the whole thing in place on the saw. Let the loosened face sit on some shim material on the table, the shim material being the thickness of the desired clearance, and tighten down.

            Regards,
            Tom

            Comment

            • Knottscott
              Veteran Member
              • Dec 2004
              • 3815
              • Rochester, NY.
              • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

              #7
              If you've got the laminate on hand, I'd cover them with that....so, option "C" for me.
              Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

              Comment

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