Router table - Repair, rebuild, replace?

[milanuk]

Hello all,

I've pretty much made up my mind that somewhere after this current project (queen-size bed frame) I'm going to have to 'fix' my router table situation before I can tackle any other projects with a fair degree of confidence.

What I have currently is a Bosch RA1171 (reviewed here @ newwoodworker.com). The two main criteria when I got it were a) it fit my Bosch 1617 router with little/no hassle and b) it was on sale @ Lowes at the time I picked up an additional router base that was designed to allow access to the micro-adjust of the 1617 from the table top through the insert plate, so switching out routers is mostly pretty simple. At this point I have only one router - my 1617EVS that I picked up as a two-base (fixed and plunge) set a few years ago. I've gotten to the point where I really don't like having to shuffle the motor around between three different bases, losing the setup in one (usually the router table) to go do a quick job with the other.

The biggest 'problems' I have w/ the router table is a) kinda heavy for a 'portable' - lots of MDF in that thing, b) never have been able to get the plate insert to sit completely flush/level and stay that way, and c) the dang power strip for it is in about the worst danged place. Something about trying to plug something in by feel gives me the heeby-jeebies, even when its dead on both ends. The fence is actually not too bad, other than the finger boards and bit guard have way too many little pieces that keep wanting to get lost. The insert plate is nice in that it is aluminum, and is pre-drilled in all the right spots for the router I have now, *and* has the hole for the wrench to raise/lower the micro-adjust. As an added bonus... if I pop out the rings around the bit hole, I can raise the motor up high enough to change bits above the table without too much trouble. It has a lot of *extra* holes in it though, for all the other routers it has to fit as well as 'scales' (very coarse and next to worthless) for adjusting the fence

Ultimately, I want to have a full-on super-whamplidyne free-standing router-table-from-heck, with lift, big herkin' 3+ hp motor, the works. Not this year, though In the mean time, most of what I use this table for is routing grooves, dadoes, rabbets, and light edge treatments. Nothing really requiring (at this point) a bigger motor, or even a very big hole in the table top.

What I'm considering:

1) Find some way to 'fix' the router table insert so it stays level and put. Relocate that dang power strip somewhere less of a PITA.

1a) Same as above, but also buy another 1617 motor body (if possible) to use as dedicated to the table.

2) Fabricate a new top for the router table body I have, reusing key components such as the insert, the fence, etc.

2a) Add dedicated router motor

2b) Lose the router insert plate, go with solid top and small hole.

3) Build a new lightweight benchtop router table from any of a variety of plans, stick a cheaper 1-1/2 hp motor in it and call it good. Downside is I end up with an 'extra' router base and no idea what to do with it.

Comments, suggestions?

TIA,

Monte

[poolhound]

There are so many ways you can go with the table its a tricky decsion. If it were me here's what I'd do.

1. First priority is buy another router. No matter what you do having only the one motor is a real PITA. Either grab something from CL or keep an eye out for a deal at Amazon, lowes etc etc... My life got so muchy easier once I could leave my bosch mounted in the table. While it might be nice to have them all match its not really necessary. I have the 1617 in my table and the DW 3 base kit for large freehand work and also a bosch colt (awesome router - ya gotta get one of these babies!). I wouldnt get hung up on the extra base, if you dont mind storing it for a while there's always somebody who would buy it eventually. I now have no bases for mine and still get the occasional PM from my posting over a year ago when I sold off the plunge base.
2. Leveling router plates is always a pain. It may be worth grabbing a cold one and sitting down with your allen wrench and a bucket of pateince and see if you can get it level. I used to have the RA1181 and it took some time to dial in that plate.
3. If you cant get it level to your satisfaction forget the whole thing and sell it and build what you want. You can build a solid top table for next to nothing. MDF or melamine will make a great top if properly supported. You can deal with the issue of various openings by simply having a replaceable additional top. 1/4" MDF would work great and you can make a couple of different ones for different openings. If you are clever about where you make the whole (off center) you can drill one top twice and use if in two positions.

[drumpriest]

Monte, why is your router table a portable one? The reason I ask is that After having a few different router tables, I decided it was a bit of a waste of shop space and built one into my table saw. Not only was the one that I built the best router table I've owned, it also doesn't take up any extra room. I now use a rockler router fence (they were on close out not that long ago, might still be) which gets stashed when I need more table saw surface. I did use a rout-r-lift fx, but you could use just about any good plate.

Unlike most table saw router tables, my fence works in the same feed direction as my table saw fence. This took about 5 minutes to get used to, and has never been a problem. I did it this way because I park my DC at the end of my table saw, and I didn't have the room to stand off the end, but now I've found that it's really a flexible design.

As for routers, it's a personal choice. I didn't feel the need for a 3hp router in my table, I just don't do THAT much panel raising, but if I had the money, I'd probably hang one in there. I just used that money for other things. One great thing about the fx lift is that it's super easy to get the router in and out, and I use it as my 2nd router for dovetail work.

My hand held router is a Bosch 1617EVSPK kit, my in table is a Porter-Cable 892. I did get the fixed base version so I could use it for dovetails as well. I have often thought about getting a colt as well, but have just never been able to justify the need, maybe someday.

btw, I've had a BUNCH of routers that I've given away/sold, and they've been "ok". The Bosch has been excellent (the plunge action is sweet) and the PC solid. I've heard a lot of good things about the Dewalt as well.

[milanuk]

Keith,

For the time being... its because my 'shop' has never really had a solid layout of tool 'X' over here, tool 'Y' over there, and something else in between. I keep meaning to do something about that... but I seem to be a master of procrastination in that (and many other) areas

For the long term 'plan'... like I said, I do want to have a full fledged router table (aka more horizontal space to set 'stuff' on... ), but I want to keep a small portable router table set up with just a straight bit for quicky jobs - grooves, dados, etc. so I don't have to disrupt other projects/setups. Kind of like I have a Bosch Colt laminate trimmer/ hand router (didn't really count it before), primarily set up with a chamfer bit (and a couple small round-over bits in the case also) for doing quick easing of edges and chamfers. Works pretty slick that way, actually. Whether it's a good theory to apply to router tables as well... I dunno. I do know that I'm a lot more comfortable doing dadoes/rabbets/grooves on the router table than I am with a dado stack in the TS, but that blasted plate in this table makes that a bit dicey at times.

Thanks,

Monte

[drumpriest]

I just did a lengthy post about shop layout here.

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...279#post413279

For me dadoes and rabbets on the TS vs router table is about size of the project. I can understand apprehension in using a dado on a TS though. It took me a while to get used to the idea, but it really is a LOT faster and you can dial in the width nicely. On larger projects I'm with you, not comfortable, so I turn to edge guides, clamp on guides and 2 passes with a router.

It took me a long time also to decide that it was really worth doing some shop projects. At first it always seemed like it was distracting me from doing actual projects, and I still have that mentality to an extent. I don't try and make my shop projects particularly pretty or anything, functional all the way, but I've found that they really do save time and effort when making things.

[poolhound]

It took me a long time also to decide that it was really worth doing some shop projects. At first it always seemed like it was distracting me from doing actual projects, and I still have that mentality to an extent. I don't try and make my shop projects particularly pretty or anything, functional all the way, but I've found that they really do save time and effort when making things.

I know exactly what you mean but I have always found that taking the time to build those shop projects that you know make sense, jigs, support tables, storage etc yields huge payback in the long run. I can think of numerous examples where it has taken me way longer to "jerry rig" something to make some strange cut than to build the correct jig or fixture in the first place.

My assembly table/bench beams are a great example. prior to building them I used a trimmed out hollow core door. It was a very useful worksurface (I still use it for that) but nowhere near a flat reference surface. It was no suprise that getting my glue ups square was an issue.

I cant tell you how long I fought and how much time (and stock) I wasted trying to get the SMT to consistently cut sq. Eventually I built my x-cut and panel sleds and now I get dead on cuts every time. They took about half a day to build.

Like you I do find it annoying sometimes that these "shop projects" distract me from "real" ones but I know they are worth the effort.

Build them once and build them right!

[eezlock]

router table repair,rebuil,replace?

Monte, I think the best solution for your situation is to keep the router table as simple as possible. Take a good look at what you have now...evaluate it from all sides and then make the changes. Making a router table top from mdf
or any other material like that has drawbacks in my opinion, that is why I used some strong stable baltic birch plywood when I built mine.

I don't have a fancy router lift or anything like that....and don't really need it either.I have a router base permanently mounted underneath the table
and I can make any and all adjustments from the bottom with little or no problem at all. I have found that the simpler things are made....the better and easier they work with fewer headaches for me! I have seen some beautiful wood work done on a simple table that was nothing but a piece of plywood, with a simple fence clamped to the board and a router bit sticking
up thru a hole in the middle! Simple is the key word.

[JSUPreston]

Monte, I have the Craftsman version of your table ($30 clearance years ago), and have been debating taking the top and modifying it to fit between the rails of my Biesemeyer fence on my contractor saw. Just haven't had the time to do it yet. It would give me the option of using the Bies fence for routing as well. It may be another thought, depending upon what TS you have.