Question about Incra 50000

[jussi]

I recently got a Incra 5000 for $75 (not so stealth gloat). It was cut for a different saw so the Incra table isn't flush with the blade. I measured the thickness off the mdf table and it's .6". The closes I could find at borg was .5". I think they had some slightly larger. Can you run mdf through a planer?


Also should I keep my 1000se? The 5000 is pretty big and bulky so I'm thinking I could just use it for bigger cuts? Anyone have both and see an advantage in doing so?

[poolhound]

I dont have one but IIRC the incra 5000 originally comes in parts and you adapt the tables to fit your own saw. I am sure you can buy replacement parts that in theory should match what you already have.

I wouldnt put MDF through a planer it will kill your blades and MDF doesnt really plane as it doesnt have fibers like wood.

[jonmulzer]

Is there any reason that 3/4" would not work?

[jussi]

Is there any reason that 3/4" would not work?

It has to be the same thickness as the main panel.

[poolhound]

You could try and find something that when laminated to a piece of MDF will be the right thickness you need. If you had to you could use your planer to create a piece of real wood of the thickness you need either for the whole .6" or to add to a piece of 1/4 or 3/8 MDF. or maybe even sandwich a piece of MDF between two layers of laminate. Not ideal but it may be a solution.

[pecker]

$35 seems kinda steep for a replacement table
http://www.woodpeck.com/incramiter5k.html but at least it will be the correct thickness.

If you make your own, you could just use the .5" mdf and use a couple shims underneath to hold it at the correct height, rather than trying to get the whole panel to exactly .6".

[SARGE..g-47]

I just did 4 20" x 21" panels for frame and panel doing what poolhound mentioned. I use 1/4" MDF and re-sawed QSWO to 3/8". Glued to the 1/4" substrate for a 5/8" thickness. Then run the panels through the planer with wood side up to achieve exactly 1/2".

I would ask why you bought the Incra 5000 but.. $75 explains that. Would I keep the Incra 1000 (SE) I assume. Yes.. I would to use most of the time when extra long is not required... so it would probably be the main menu on my TS as it is on yours now.

With that said.. I personally am not sure why you need two? I have the cheap Incra V 27 miter gauge. I was not going to pay extra for the fence. I mount a sacrificial hickory face to it about 20" long. That takes care of most cross-cuts I do on the TS.

But.. I just cut 8 30" long legs for a computer desk. So I ripped a piece of straight 42" SYP and screwed it to the face of my 20" long fence so I could add a stop block at 30" to have all exact. My original sacrificial face was shimmed to square on the actual gauge with playing cards and slick tape strips. The additional 42" was screwed to it and shimmed the same way for square. I pilot drill and counter-sink the holes so the screw head sits below the surface.

I will take the 42" off today as I don't need it now. That will take about 1 minute with a palm cordless Makita impact driver. The 42 was sacrificial but it will hang on a wall. If I need a 60" fence face tomorrow.. I can have one on the TS in less than 10 minutes.

So.. I could get by with your SE 1000 or my cheap V 27 as cheap doesn't mean it's not accurate. It is but it doesn't have the added cost of the Incra fence. I have an unlimited amount of fence lenght sitting on my wood rack and I'm just a cheap and simple SOB when the truth is told.

Good luck with this...

[poolhound]

So.. I could get by with your SE 1000 or my cheap V 27 as cheap doesn't mean it's not accurate. It is but it doesn't have the added cost of the Incra fence. I have an unlimited amount of fence lenght sitting on my wood rack and I'm just a cheap and simple SOB when the truth is told.

Good luck with this...

I am a big believer in KISS principles, this is a good example of them at work.