Flattening a plane sole

[herb fellows]

I see the definition for this thread is 'power tools', but I guess it's ok to ask about hand tools also? If not, please move the post.
When you are flattening the sole of a hand plane (a #4 Bailey, in this case), how high should you go on the grit to smooth it?
I started with 120, it is now level (after 2 hours!). I guess I'll put some Johnsons wax ( no problem with this interfering with any finish, right?.) to make it glide smoothly.
I've seen hints about everthing from 220 to 1200, but nobody seems to want to commit. Any suggestions?

[master53yoda]

250 to 350 wet in a front and back pattern then wax it i would thing would be good. mine isn't in that level but I don't use hand planes due to the problems it causes my MS so I'm just speaking about my metal back ground, My son is a machinist and he said that most surface grinders are about 300 and that would have been what the factories used.

[shoottx]

When I do mine, the process is what ever necessary to start, (120 usually) then 220, 320, 400 then oil or wax.

The logic behind those numbers is; those are the grades of wet/dry sandpaper I have under the bench. at 320 - 400 you should have a really smooth and clear surface on the plane.

[LinuxRandal]

Honestly, I think it is more personal preference (want to see your reflection/ego/obsessive?), and trial as to how well it works for you.

[Uncle Cracker]

I usually go 180 through 400 grit wet, on a granite slab. Then a quick once-over with Flitz metal polish on a clean cotton rag. I finish with carnauba wax on the Beall buffing wheel. They'll really skate along after that. Then, repeat the Flitz and the wax as needed, until something gets out of flat again.

[pecker]

Two of mine were bad enough that I started with 80 grit...drywall sanding sheets.

[herb fellows]

Consensus seems to say up to about 320-400, that's what I was looking for. I avoid mirrors, so I certainly don't want to see myself in the plane every time I pick it up! I was just looking for optimal without overkill for performance. Thanks to all!

[poolhound]

I dont ever go into the 1000s but definately more than 120. 320 is where I usually stop unless I happen to have had a piece of finer grit already stuck to my plate glass sharpening station.

[Pappy]

320/400 range is more than sufficient. Also, the entire sole doesn't have to be lapped flat, although it won't hurt if it is. The main concern is that the toe, heel, and the area around the mouth are lapped smooth and level to each other.

[herb fellows]

320/400 range is more than sufficient. Also, the entire sole doesn't have to be lapped flat, although it won't hurt if it is. The main concern is that the toe, heel, and the area around the mouth are lapped smooth and level to each other.

I remember reading that in Lee Leonard's book and thinking 'well, ok just have to get those 3 bits flat.' Unfortunately, for whatever reason, these invariably seem to be the last bits to get flat! Sort of a tools Murphy's law?

[Pappy]

Unfortunately, for whatever reason, these invariably seem to be the last bits to get flat! Sort of a tools Murphy's law?

Sometimes that seems true. I have thought about working with a machine shop for the initioal lapping, especially on #6 and larger planes, or borrowing time on an edge sander. I did that last on a couple of wooden planes.