Delta Tenon Jig on Jet ProShop Saw

[Snap Marc]

I just bought a really nice Delta tenoning jig. It seems my JET ProShop table saw's miter slot is a bit further away from the blade than what the Delta jig likes. Does anyone know anything about this?

The jig could be modified with some metal work, but maybe there's a more simple solution I'm not thinking of.

Do miter slots very from saw to saw? If I use the right miter slot, I can get the jig up against the blade, but in the left slot, the closest I can some is about 5/8" from the blade.

I'm bummed it wasn't as easy as I thought. I never thought to measure the distance of the miter slot from the blade and compare it to the Delta saws.

[jonmulzer]

They vary, but not as much as one would think. You really want to cut shoulders on the outside to keep your offcut from being trapped. With that being the case if you can get it within 5/8" you can cut past the center of 1" stock and that is about as thick as you will be tenoning.

Here is a chart if you wish to check it out. Far from comprehensive, but there are a few on there.

http://www.woodbutcher.net/miterslot.shtml

[SARGE..g-47]

Yes.... all miter slots are not created equal distances...... So.. here's the simple solution..............

If you are right handed Marc, use the left miter slot that allows you to get to 5/8". Mount a sacrificial wood fence on the face of the jig. Your problem is solved and a potential problem you aren't aware of is also. Metal teeth hate metal fences so the sacrificial has you covered on both counts..

Regards from up the road in Lawrenceville...

[Snap Marc]

Thanks for the good idea. A sacrificial fence is always nice. And yes, the metal on metal is quite a threat.

So it seems the distance is more than 5/8". It's more like 7/8" as a piece if 3/4" MDF almost made me reach the blade. Either way, your idea is the answer. Now I just have to deal with the piece of metal that hold the stock upright. It seems that piece is about the exact size of whatever sacrificial fence I may use. So the fence takes up the entire piece of metal leaving me with nothing for the actual stock I'm tenoning. So I need to either extend that piece, or have a bigger one fabricated. Any ideas there?

[SARGE..g-47]

Thanks for the good idea. A sacrificial fence is always nice. And yes, the metal on metal is quite a threat.

So it seems the distance is more than 5/8". It's more like 7/8" as a piece if 3/4" MDF almost made me reach the blade. Either way, your idea is the answer. Now I just have to deal with the piece of metal that hold the stock upright. It seems that piece is about the exact size of whatever sacrificial fence I may use. So the fence takes up the entire piece of metal leaving me with nothing for the actual stock I'm tenoning. So I need to either extend that piece, or have a bigger one fabricated. Any ideas there?

Take off the vertical metal (if possible) stock retainer and glue a piece of sacrificial wood to the rear vertically. Just be sure to clamp it when gluing so that the face of the retainer is 90 degrees to the fence and the fence is 90 degrees to the blade and table.


You can use 1" thick wood if you wish as the retainer becomes sacrificial as the fence. But... use glue and not screws so if the blade does ride through the retainer you don't have a blade tooth-metal screw showdown at the OK Corral.

BTW.. if you hear or feel the bottom of your tenon jig scraping your cast iron top... run a piece of self adhesive "slick tape" from front to rear or the direction the jig travels in the slot on the front lip.. rear lip and center or as close to there as possible taking into account the position of the miter bar mount. That might save you a question latter if you run into it...

Regards...