Craftsman 8 1/2" radial arm saw

[jonmulzer]

I have a chance to pick one up for a song in like new condition. It can't be over 5 years old, just by looking at it. Model number 113.234800. Is this a good saw? Does anyone know if they will accept 8" dado stacks? How hard are blades to find in that size for radial arm saws? Basically any input would be appreciated.

I have been looking for a radial arm saw, even though I may not use one much and then this one fell in my lap. I was really wanting a 10" model but this one has the original blade on it and looks like it has only cut maybe a board or two and I can buy it for $40.

[Uncle Cracker]

That definitely is an odd size... I remember that Black & Decker used to make a RAS in that size, but I'd bet the available blades are very limited. Not only that, but you'd have a tough time mitering crown molding with a small saw like that.

[eccentrictinkerer]

Ryobi's RA series radial arm saws were 8 1/4". 8"-8 1/4" blades are common around here.

The Ryobi saw is a really handy, compact saw, but was recalled last year.

I have 3 (they'll have to pry them out of my cold, dead hands)!

I'm converting one to an over-arm FrankenRouter. I'll post post pics as soon as it's done.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Jon,
I own this model RAS - have had it for close to 10 years now. Not sure how long they were produced (and mine looks only about 5 years old also...)

Its actually an 8.25in saw, although 8.5in blades might fit (not sure I've ever seen any though.) Blades should not be an issue - anything 8.5in or smaller should fit, but under 8.25 in, it seems like wasted capacity. Sears carries some 8.25in blades, like these:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...s&sName=Blades (Freud)

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...s&sName=Blades (DeWalt)

Here's a fairly nice DeWalt cross-cut blade:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...s&sName=Blades

And then there's Freud's TK604, as seen on their website:
http://www.freudtools.com/p-47-thin-...terradial.aspx

I've also found 8.25in and 8.5in "Chopmaster" blades on the Forrest website:
http://www.forrestblades.com/chopmaster.htm

Also found this miter blade by Amana in 8.5in:
http://www.amanatool.com/circular-sa...r-ms85480.html

This is a light-weight RAS - here are some of my observations: the saw has not required much recalibration over the years, it has been pretty solid; however, the radial arm is not super stiff, and can flex a little if significant pressure is applied; the bevel-cut adjustment works pretty well - but the mitre-cut rule ring is useless (once I found the right angle measure, I cut permanent mitres into my tabletop, and have written the degrees for each on the table).

My 234800 is still running strong, and I look forward to many more years of service from it. I use it primarily for crosscutting wide stock to length (has 13in crosscut capacity) before taking to the table saw. I have only used it for ripping and crosscutting, so have not tried a dado stack in it (nor the infamous moulding cutters.)

For the right price, I would buy this saw again. But if I found a 10in model in great shape for the same price, I'd jump on that first. Having said that, at $40 bucks, this saw would be in my truck immediately.

Early models of the saw had a defective blade gaurd - check this site to make sure the one your looking at has the right one or is not impacted:
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

[jonmulzer]

I was hoping someone had some experience with using one of these with a dado stack since that is really why I am wanting to get one. I have a miter saw already for crown molding and such and even it is about to get upgraded soon. I am wanting a 12" Hitachi slider. I really want a 10" RAS but this one is a real steal. I think I am going to get it regardless. I could probably unload it for twice what I paid for it if I decide it does not meet my needs.

[Turaj]

Jon, I have the 224700 which I believe is an earlier model. I have had it for about 8 years and before that it was at my FIL for another 10 years. As mentioned this is actually 8 1/4". I have used 6" dado blade with mine on number of occasions with no problem (I don't have 8" dado so I cannot comment on that). Like others I use it for cross cut of long pieces (don't have CMS) and with a jig for picture frames (a lot). I have never done ripping as it scares the cr*** out of me.

Early models of the saw had a defective blade gaurd - check this site to make sure the one your looking at has the right one or is not impacted:
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

My saw is under recall as it never had a blade guard. There is no kit for my saw so the recall offers me $100 but I figure I get more use out of it than $100. Maybe one day I upgrade to a 10" (bigger cross cut capacity) with a guard and send this one back

[scmhogg]

I have kept a 6" dado set on my 8" CM RAS for the last couple of years. I made a lot of stuff with half laps, so I haven't changed back to a blade. I keep the full 3/4" of the stack.

Using the dado is a little scary. If you try to make too deep a cut the saw will jump towards you. You have to pull the blade towards you whilst applying pressure to prevent it from jumping forward. Once you get the feel for it, it is probably easiest way to do dados and half laps.

My model is one of those that have been recalled and can't be modified. They offered $100 if I sent them the motor assembly. I decided to be careful, instead.

Let me know if I can provide additional info.

Steve

[JimD]

I have a Ryobi 8.25 inch RAS. It has been recalled but I have no plans to give mine up. It works fine. It works a lot better with a negative hook blade, however. Any RAS will pull itself into the wood fast enough to stall if you are not careful if you use a large positive hook angle blade. If you use a negative hook angle, the tendency to pull itself into the work is greatly reduced. I'm talking about cross cutting which is all I do with a RAS.

I use a Freud blade with a negative hook angle and I also use my inexpensive Freud Pro, I think the model is 206, 6 inch dado set on it. This dado set is also negative hook and works fine. It will not take more than about 1/2 width, and 3/8 is better for full thread engagement but is handy for cutting half laps or tenons on long pieces. I recently used it to make a queen sized bed for my son cutting the 1 1/2 long and 6 inch wide tenons with the RAS and dado set. My Freud dado set just got a "best buy" rating in the current Wood magazine review. If you do not already have a good dado set, buy a 6 inch. All you gain with a 8 inch is a little more depth of cut which you will rarely if ever use. I think I could use a 8 inch on my RAS but it isn't what I have (or want).

Jim

[jonmulzer]

I bought it, going to pick it up tomorrow since it was raining today. I was thinking of just putting it into storage until I get moved someplace where I can set up a real shop but I think this one is light enough to move to the basement without too much trouble. It really does look like brand new and has the newest style of Craftsman insignia. I am certainly happy with it for what I paid. The guy I bought it from has a 14" Insignia bandsaw that if a friend of his does not buy it I can pick up for $75.

[jonmulzer]

So I got it home and put back together. I tried a couple of test cuts and even knocked out a tenon real quick with the standard blade just to see how quick it was. I think I am going to like this tool. I am going to have to build a new table for it before I use it though. I was trying to get it all aligned since it was cutting slightly out of square (<1/32" over 12") and was going to start by leveling the table to the arm. Something just wasn't seeming correct as I was figuring that whole process out so I put a straight edge across the table and there was almost 1/4" sag in the middle. Kinda hard to get it to cut correctly like that. So tomorrow I dig through my MDF scrap and see if I can come up with enough to make my fence and table. I believe there are two pieces left from my workbench project that will work out perfect.

Does anyone have any advice on how to build it and what features to add and such? This will be my first so I am hoping to learn from the prior mistakes of others on the forum. I am considering cutting some 3/8" deep by 3/4" wide dadoes in the MDF that will be placed together to inlay some 3/4" square steel stock to prevent future sagging. I am also considering whether it would be worth it to put on a 1/4" hardboard replaceable top. I really don't see myself using this saw to cut miters. I have a miter saw for that. I see it being used 90 degrees all the time for crosscuts and dadoes. If that is the case, there really should only be one saw kerf in the top of it.

Do you think Sears still stocks a manual for this model of saw? It sure would be handy right about now.

[shoottx]

Here is an interesting RAS download

http://www.owwm.com/pubs/222/1325.pdf

[Bill in Buena Park]

...Does anyone have any advice on how to build it and what features to add and such?...I am considering cutting some 3/8" deep by 3/4" wide dadoes in the MDF that will be placed together to inlay some 3/4" square steel stock to prevent future sagging....

Do you think Sears still stocks a manual for this model of saw? It sure would be handy right about now.

Jon,
Sears still has the manual for this model, but I had to order it from the parts list to replace the one I lost. Send me a PM if you're interested.

As far as the table - I replaced my stock MDF top and fence with 3/4in melamine versions after 8+ years of use - and I really like it, haven't noticed any sag, but its only been about a year since the change. The undercarriage that the table rests on shouldn't allow for any sagging in the melamine, but one thing you might want to try is to make the top double-thick, by bonding two pieces of melamine. Unless you plan to cut dados in REALLY thick stock, the 3/4in height loss should not matter.

[jonmulzer]

The top that is on this one currently is 3/4" melamine. I believe I am going to go with MDF since a double thickness should prove quite rigid, and I have enough in the scrap bin. Is there any real reason to make the fence removable/replaceable? I really only plan on using it for 90 degree crosscuts and dadoes so I don't see it getting terribly chewed up. Does anyone have any nifty ideas besides a one-piece top with a fence screwed down? Is there anything I am missing here?

[Bill in Buena Park]

...I really only plan on using it for 90 degree crosscuts and dadoes...

I would maintain a replaceable fence for this very reason (and others) - unless you plan to secure aux. fences to your basic fence, and you should have at least two different fences for these two different purposes. The fence (and tabletop) act like a ZCTP to prevent tear-out. Because the rotation of the blade pulls the fibers toward the fence from the top, your fence should be at least the height of your workpiece, and the kerf in the fence should match the kerf of the specific blade for your operation.

...Does anyone have any nifty ideas besides a one-piece top with a fence screwed down? Is there anything I am missing here?...

Since a RAS is similar to a SCMS (with the added benefits of rip and dado operations), anything nifty you could do to your SCMS might work on your RAS. Since I use mine for basic stuff, I've left it fairly stock, and saved "nifty" for other tools like the TS, BS and DP.

One thing you might want to consider is DC - that little dust port on the blade housing is useless. I added a DC box behind the RAS in the trajectory that dust is propelled - not 100% capture, but it helps.

[Popeye]

[quote=jonmulzer; Does anyone have any nifty ideas besides a one-piece top with a fence screwed down? Is there anything I am missing here?[/quote]
Here is my table and fence. I got the fence plan from and old (issue 2 from 92) Shop Notes. It's not screwed to the table top but the center section where the blades passes is replaceable. Even though I only use the saw for cross cuts I found that the section the blade passes through gets chewed up and if you do any dado's it really gets chewed. Pat