The Perfect Taper Jig.. Finally... for me!

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  • SARGE..g-47

    The Perfect Taper Jig.. Finally... for me!

    For 38 years I searched for a perfect taper jig. You would think it would be simple but... I found it was not. I have looked at many designs and built around eight of them thinking "this may be the one"? But none was not quite what I considered perfect. What I consider perfect is a jig that can handle up to 12" wide and 4" thick stock. One that has extremely positive hold down on the stock.. one that keeps hands well away from the blade.. one that delivers precise cuts with no chance of slip up by the jig coming off the fence.

    I just never found one that does all the above. Some met several of the requirements but always fell short of my full expectations. Even the little, cheap aluminum ones will work but.. at the expense of the jig moving off the fence or slipping on the rear stop as you guide it and ruining a piece of good stock. Maybe even one you have already cut mortises in. And they are extremely dangerous IMO as your hand is the hold-down and it comes dangerously close to the blade when tapering 2" stock, etc. Not my personal cup of tea.

    On a short trip to P'tree WW I saw the Dubby from In-line Industries. I was impressed as Dave there allowed me to take it out of the box and examine it. It was about as close to perfect as I have ever seen with the exception it rides on a miter bar which might provide a slight amount of slop. And with various thicknesses you have to unscrew the bar and move the position to another pre-drilled spot which would take several minutes. But.. this was close to perfect in my mind.

    Then I saw the price of $119 and went into mild shock as I cannot justify that price even though my need for tapers will increase with project plans in the next year. So.. do I continue to cut them on my jointer (which is not my favorite thing to do) or build it to meet my criteria and eliminate the need to move the miter bar as most items I had on hand?

    The world has access to the Dubby taper jig... now I have my "Dummy taper jig" as even a dummy like myself cannot make a mistake with this jig. .004 run-out on leading edge to blade.. positive hold down.. hands 16" away from blade with no chance of the jig coming off the fence. You simply push it when set up. As I see it..... perfect for a Dummy! :>)

    Click on each picture to enhance photo... I just found that out recently. :>)
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    Last edited by Guest; 11-04-2008, 11:50 AM.
  • bthorne
    Forum Newbie
    • Oct 2007
    • 82
    • Ruckersville, VA
    • Craftsman 21829

    #2
    Sarge,
    That's one GREAT looking jig! I'm sure you'll get a lot of use out of it.

    Bryan
    --
    Bryan

    Comment

    • Whaler
      Veteran Member
      • Dec 2002
      • 3281
      • Sequim, WA, USA.
      • DW746

      #3
      That's a pretty slick looking jig.
      Dick

      http://www.picasaweb.google.com/rgpete2/

      Comment

      • shoottx
        Veteran Member
        • May 2008
        • 1240
        • Plano, Texas
        • BT3000

        #4
        Very Cool

        It look like a real winner!

        But no stain and no labels yet!
        Often in error - Never in doubt

        Mike

        Comment

        • poolhound
          Veteran Member
          • Mar 2006
          • 3195
          • Phoenix, AZ
          • BT3100

          #5
          Wow Sarge, thats one serious looking taper jig. I see a lot of table legs in your future...
          Jon

          Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
          ________________________________

          We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
          techzibits.com

          Comment

          • Uncle Cracker
            The Full Monte
            • May 2007
            • 7091
            • Sunshine State
            • BT3000

            #6
            Nice rig, Sarge... Lotta potential there.

            Comment

            • SARGE..g-47

              #7
              Thanks Bryan.. Dick.. Mike.. Jon and Uncle Crack. I am definitely please even though it took me much longer to build than I anticipated. With a trip to Peachtee WW to pick up a third clamp (about 45 minutes round trio for me) it took around 5 1/2 hours to build. But a lot of that was stop and think with a cup of coffee as I pretty much made it on the fly with a few modifications after having seen the Dubby taper jig.

              If I had all components on hand... knowing the dimensions I ended up with and the design technique... it could probably be duplicated in a bit under 3 hours. I had all the components on hand except the 3rd hold down. I got to thinking and if I had purchased them a few days ago this thing would have cost almost $70 in parts and then your labor.

              So... maybe $119 isn't that bad really if you are so inclined to avoid the labor involved but.. I went into sticker shock when I saw $119. But then again I went into sticker shock when I saw Coca Cola's go from $.05 to $.06 in one day back around 1960. Whoa..... what't next?

              Comment

              • leehljp
                Just me
                • Dec 2002
                • 8441
                • Tunica, MS
                • BT3000/3100

                #8
                That does look good! I am bookmarking this page and it will be copied. Thanks for the pictures!
                Hank Lee

                Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

                Comment

                • jussi
                  Veteran Member
                  • Jan 2007
                  • 2162

                  #9
                  Looks good sarge. I'm probably just slow and the answer is obvious, but I'm curious as to how do you go about setting up the jig for a cut. My initial thought was you draw 2 marks (one on top and one bottom) on the piece you want to cut. Place the jig and the piece to be cut in front of the blade so that top mark lines up with the blade, lock the front clamp. Then move both jig and piece to be cut the back of the blade and line up the bottom mark to the blade????

                  I've never seen one like this before and have only seen the cheaper aluminum ones that have the angle built in them. This looks much sturdier and easier to use.
                  I reject your reality and substitute my own.

                  Comment

                  • jussi
                    Veteran Member
                    • Jan 2007
                    • 2162

                    #10
                    Originally posted by leehljp
                    that does look good! I am bookmarking this page and it will be copied. Thanks for the pictures!
                    +1 ........................
                    I reject your reality and substitute my own.

                    Comment

                    • SARGE..g-47

                      #11
                      Originally posted by leehljp
                      That does look good! I am bookmarking this page and it will be copied. Thanks for the pictures!
                      Thank you Lee. I cannot take credit for the initial design as I got it from the Dubby taper jig and modified with a few improvements I deemed to my suiting. But I suppose they can't take all the credit for the design as the basic design has been around for awhile but they added some nice touches to what was lacking on those . Such as movable clamps and the ability to do wide stock with minimal chance of slip-up.

                      Regards...

                      Comment

                      • SARGE..g-47

                        #12
                        Originally posted by jussi
                        Looks good sarge. I'm probably just slow and the answer is obvious, but I'm curious as to how do you go about setting up the jig for a cut. My initial thought was you draw 2 marks (one on top and one bottom) on the piece you want to cut. Place the jig and the piece to be cut in front of the blade so that top mark lines up with the blade, lock the front clamp. Then move both jig and piece to be cut the back of the blade and line up the bottom mark to the blade????

                        I've never seen one like this before and have only seen the cheaper aluminum ones that have the angle built in them. This looks much sturdier and easier to use.
                        Thanks Jussi. I had to reply to quote as I wanted to be sure I did reply to all you ask. My memory isn't as sharp as it once was.

                        You are sorta in the ball park with your thery, Jussi. Look at the picture carefully and you will see the leading edge of the jig touches the blade. You get it that way by aligning the jig to the fence with a small protion in front of the blade. Then you run the jig through without stock to square the face of the jig to the blade for future cuts. And you note exactly where your pointer on your TS fence scale is. I refer to that as ground zero.

                        Now you mark your stock on one end and then the other depending on how much is being taken off.. the angle and where the cut ends. Then you turn the jig over and place the front mark on the front end of the leading edge of the jig.. then the rear mark on the tail end of the leading edge of the jig. Then you clamp them securely.

                        You turn the jig up-right and mount it to the TS fence with the positive lock I built to do so. The marks on the stock are aligned to the leading edge of the jig. You pull the jig back so all clears the blade and then move the TS fence to the ground zero I mentioned. In my case dead on 13 7/8". At this point the stock to be cut is exposed forward of leading edge and the remainder is securely clamped on the jig which will never touch the blade.

                        So.... we're ready to cut.. Move the jig back so the exposed stock is in front of the blade.. turn the saw on and move it forward on the fence by just pushing it. There is no chance of this jig coming off the fence to mess up a cut. Look closely again at the back side of the jig and how I built a fence over-ride on the existing forward fence to keep it from coming off. I originally had about .012 slop or movement. I added two strips of self adhesive slick tape to the inside of the fence over-ride to shim it out. It now has about .003 slop which is nothing to speak of. So the fence rides positively on the fence without the risk of coming off giving an erractic cut.

                        Sorry to be so long but.. hope that helps. It might be confusing a bit if you are not that familar with these type taper jigs. So.. if you have additional questions feel free to ask.

                        Regards...

                        Sarge..

                        Comment

                        • chopnhack
                          Veteran Member
                          • Oct 2006
                          • 3779
                          • Florida
                          • Ryobi BT3100

                          #13
                          Very nice Sarge. It looks like it will serve you well. Is that southern pine that you used for the "fence" portion? Any concerns with it warping or twisting after removing so much material to install the t tracks?
                          I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

                          Comment

                          • Roger Ronas
                            Forum Newbie
                            • Jan 2008
                            • 23

                            #14
                            Tagged for later duplication.

                            Nice jig Sarge.

                            roger

                            Comment

                            • niki
                              Senior Member
                              • Nov 2006
                              • 566
                              • Poland
                              • EB PK255

                              #15
                              Originally posted by SARGE..g-47
                              I got it from the Dubby taper jig and modified with a few improvements I deemed to my suiting.
                              Yeap, you are correct SARGE...

                              The taper jig/sled is not a new idea but so is the Table saw, Planer, Band saw and almost all the tools, machines and jigs in the world...

                              The small, but BIG difference is, the "Modified with a few improvements"...that's what makes one tool/machine/jig better than the other.

                              Great ideas and execution

                              Regards
                              niki

                              Comment

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