What cordless drill should I buy?

[leehljp]

Two threads going on and I will chime in on both. The impact driver and drill driver are as different as dog and a cat. For even a few wood screws - to many wood screws, the ID will out perform the DD more than double or tripple. The DD is much better at drilling holes in wood or concrete.

The problem with understanding the difference in a drill driver versus an impact driver is that they look alike! However, they don't act alike - as both apply the power in totally different ways not visible to the eye, but certain in a way that can be felt dramatically.

[gsmittle]

Since the Ryobi fit the bill except for weight and charge time why not replace it with a Ryobi Lithium 18V. The lithium cell weighs less and the new charger is faster. With the old NiCd pack the charger is even faster and that way you have the old cells as a backup.

I was thinking this same thing--especially if you have more than one or two batteries, you could replace the drill and keep your old batteries. I hear what you're saying about the self-discharge over time, but a Lithium setup will take care of that. The new charger will charge both types, and you'll still have the old charger as a shop/basement/toss in the toolbox/backup charger for the older batteries.

I'm savin' my pennies for the Lithium charger/battery upgrade. I have four 18v drills that I let teenagers abuse daily, and they're still going strong after six years.

g.

[dlminehart]

The current Consumer Reports rates cordless drills. They divide them into "drills for general use" and "drills for tougher jobs". They don't explain the distinction, but the charts show higher speed, power, and run time.

The top rated general use ones were Panasonic's 15.6V NiMH EY6432GQKW and Ryobi's 18V Li-Ion P813. Below those were a bunch of Makitas and Hitachis, plus one Craftsman (a NiCd rated best buy at $120). For "tougher jobs", they listed Hitchi's DS18DMR (NiMH), Makita's LXT BDF451 (Li-Ion), Bosch's 33618-2G (NiCd), and Makita's 6347DWDE. All these scored better than all of the "general use" drills.

Their tests showed that Li-Ion drills are lighter and longer-running, but many Li-Ion batteries couldn't be re-charged if run long enough to be fully discharged. Their life span is also shortened if you let them sit longer than 6 months with a full charge. Both conditions make built-in charge indicators a plus for Li-Ion batteries, but among top drills only Ryobi had them.

Other findings:

Big name brings little: DeWalt's DC720KA and DC730KA drove fewer fasteners than many less expensive models before needing recharging.

Paying less can bring less: Ridgid's $130 R82007 Li-Ion drill was nose heavy and awkward.

[JimD]

I like my 18V Ryobi. One of my batteries will not hold a charge while it is sitting idle well at all. The other battery is better but still not good. If it sits a week, it may not be good for much. What I do is keep one battery in the charger at all times. That way I can always do work. I have the circular saw and jigsaw too. The jigsaw is more useful to me than the circular saw. I typically want to rip up some sheet goods with the circular saw and this seems to be marginal for my Ryobi. If I need more than one battery, which doesn't take all that much cutting, I may have wait. I usually use a jig saw for much less demanding tasks making battery power more consistent.

I drill nearly anything I would use a corded drill for with my Ryobi. It is a bit heavy for my wife but I have several other cordless drills which I can use for lighter duty or she can use. You might want to consider getting a littler drill plus a new Ryobi. It would not necessarily cost more. I have a 9.6V DeWalt, a 9.6V B&D (bought for the batteries to use in the DeWalt) and a couple small Craftsman with built in batteries. A 9.6V will drive a couple dozen 3 inch screws before the battery gives out. I used them most recently installing drywall screws. They would hang several sheets of drywall and were easier to carry on a belt so your hands are free to position the drywall.

Besides the fact that the Ryobi is a good drill, the opportunity to cheaply add other tools is a very attractive feature.

Jim

[LinuxRandal]

The current Consumer Reports rates cordless drills. They divide them into "drills for general use" and "drills for tougher jobs". They don't explain the distinction, but the charts show higher speed, power, and run time.

The top rated general use ones were Panasonic's 15.6V NiMH EY6432GQKW and Ryobi's 18V Li-Ion P813. Below those were a bunch of Makitas and Hitachis, plus one Craftsman (a NiCd rated best buy at $120). For "tougher jobs", they listed Hitchi's DS18DMR (NiMH), Makita's LXT BDF451 (Li-Ion), Bosch's 33618-2G (NiCd), and Makita's 6347DWDE. All these scored better than all of the "general use" drills.


Other findings:

Big name brings little:

In various reviews I have seen in magazines, tougher jobs means different things: Run time (battery amp hours, Makita's white line, has a lower amp hour rating then its green line), other features like Hammer drills, larger chucks, etc. It also USED to (not so often anymore) means voltage. (comparing an 18 volt drill you would be deck building, with a 12 or 14.4 volt you would use in the shop and around the house).
If you compare some of the models, you may find this to still be the case.

As for the last part, from my experience, once a company has established a name (like Makita did in the late 80's early 90's with things like the 9.6 volt), they start playing games with the cost of construction verses retail, to take on the older, established names (more competitive games, less just worry about the quality). You can NEVER just go on name trust alone.

[SARGE..g-47]

I have never cared for cordless tools as I was dis-appointed in a drill I purchased about 6-7 years ago. I basically garbage canned it. But... I got ot use a small Bosch "palm" drill at the International WW Show a month ago to help assemble over 40 Steel City machines before the show started.

I loved it and went to purchase one at around $124. It happens that Makita had just come out with a Combo Palm drill and impact driver HD now has for $179 introductory price. I had seen it at the Show and was impressed. For $179 for the two... I took a chance on the Makita with Lithium which has both drills.. two batteries and a charger.

The Makita impact driver has not left my hand. Powerful and won't slow down until fully dis-charged and it takes only 15 minutes to re-charge. I built a new mobile clamp rack two weeks ago. The Makita drill in one hand drilling counter-sunk pilot holes and the impact driver in the other counter-sinking 2 1/2" deck screws in the clamp rack. A two hour build with my new acquisition.

I am thinking I might go for the Makita 18V set now on sale. They will never replace corded but they are the right tool for certain jobs and from what I have found with the Makita Lithium... a pleasure to own as they get er done in most cases.

[messmaker]

Get a kit that has a driver and a drill in it. You will not be sorry.

[dfsuther]

My 18V NiCad Ryobi just gave up the ghost, and I need to replace it. I'm currently thinking that the Makita BDF452HW is a good choice. But maybe there's something I'm not aware of that would be better.

Advice, anyone?

Thanks for all the advice, suggestions and information! After reading what everyone has had to say, I've ordered the Makita LCT200W kit. It contains the BDF452HW drill driver and the matching impact driver from the same compact line. The various raves folks have made about impact drivers convinced me to stretch my budget.

Dean

[Tom Slick]

the first time you drive a 3" deck screw with your new impact you'll say "holy $%!*".