'Nother HF Question

[crokett]

Which is a better demo blade? I have some 2x6s I want to rip down to 2x4s that have nails in them approx every 2". It would be nice to just cut through the nails without having to pull them.

This one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38534

or this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38537

[cabinetman]

Which is a better demo blade? I have some 2x6s I want to rip down to 2x4s that have nails in them approx every 2". It would be nice to just cut through the nails without having to pull them.

This one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38534

or this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38537

I would rather pull the nails than cut through them. I'm thinking safety and the possibilities of metal pieces flying out, and damage to the blade/saw. But to choose between the two, I'd go with this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38534
.

[poolhound]

I would rather pull the nails than cut through them. I'm thinking safety and the possibilities of metal pieces flying out, and damage to the blade/saw. But to choose between the two, I'd go with this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38534
.

I have to say I agree with CMAN. I know its a real PITA but intentionally cutting through nails can lead to all sorts of issues. I did this only once and it through the piece of wood across the shop when it caught a nail.

That plus the absolute certainty that when you come to screw or nail together whatever you are making the nails left in will be in exactly the places you want to put new joints or screws etc...

Bladewise, I have tried a few 7" cheap rip blades and havent seen much real difference especially when they are new and sharp. Right now the one I have been using is one of the BORG Freud blades.

[jackellis]

There's quite a difference between cutting nails and screws with a table or circular saw and cutting them with a demolition saw. The former apply a lot of energy to whatever they come in contact with.

I'd avoid the table/circular saw method. Too dangerous.

[Tom Slick]

IF you insist on using a circ saw and cutting nails I'd recommend the blue bosch framing blades. They handle nails easily and cost about $8. Their trade show demonstration is cutting 100 nails then still cutting lumber easily. destroy 2 HF blades and you are at the cost of the bosch blade without the frustration.


I prefer a demo blade in a sawzall if I know I have to cut nails.

[crokett]

I thought about a sawzall but it is slower and won't give the straight cut I want. I know pulling the nails is the right answer but that takes a while. I have a fair # of boards that need the nails out.

[poolhound]

I thought about a sawzall but it is slower and won't give the straight cut I want. I know pulling the nails is the right answer but that takes a while. I have a fair # of boards that need the nails out.

How about a really large magnet

Did you go and buy up a stock of used lumber? I have thought of this occasionally when in need of basic stock for simple structures. If its free then that can be tempting, I have done this once but having pulled lots of nails, thrown out warped and damaged pieces and spent way to long getting what I needed a couple of bucks each for a new and clean 2x4 is often easier and cheaper.

I also tried salvaging some pallettes and this was even more a waste of time. I destroyed much of it getting it apart and what was left wasnt of the greatest quality.

[crokett]

Actually it was a big stack I got for free a while back. I want to cut it down and use it to frame in the last 2 walls in the basement, although I suppose having 2x6's for walls isn't a bad thing. I wonder if I'd notice that extra 2" of floor space was missing? I am not sure a prehung door would work in it though.

[just started]

Do NOT use a carbide tipped blade!!!!! The carbide can crack and/or chip and will come flying at you at 100+ miles an hour.

[rjwaldren]

I've used, both series, cause I'm poor these days. Actually the Lifetime Carbides aren't bad blades FOR THE PRICE. They have huge C3 teeth and hold their edge on MDF better than my Tenryu GM ever has. The MolyCarbs are trash, to the point of not feeling safe to use and the one I tried was dull out of the package.

I've been using a 10" 50-tooth Lifetime (7.99 on sale) as my everyday blade, and honestly it's not perfect but the Tenryu wasn't notably better. That said, I mostly us it for MDF and the one time I did find a brad I about dove under the table. Nothing happened but I wasn't about to watch.

Have you looked at the blades used with the RAGE (cut through anything) CS that Sears is selling? Probably pretty expensive.

[messmaker]

I've used, both series, cause I'm poor these days. Actually the Lifetime Carbides aren't bad blades FOR THE PRICE. They have huge C3 teeth and hold their edge on MDF better than my Tenryu GM ever has. The MolyCarbs are trash, to the point of not feeling safe to use and the one I tried was dull out of the package.

I've been using a 10" 50-tooth Lifetime (7.99 on sale) as my everyday blade, and honestly it's not perfect but the Tenryu wasn't notably better. That said, I mostly us it for MDF and the one time I did find a brad I about dove under the table. Nothing happened but I wasn't about to watch.

Have you looked at the blades used with the RAGE (cut through anything) CS that Sears is selling? Probably pretty expensive.

I have used the Lifetime Carbide blades as well. Some are pretty good. I use the 50 tooth on almost all outside projects.