Ryobi 18v. cir. saw frame bends

[HauntedBranch]

I bought the Ryobi 18v. circular saw today and notice that, if the blade is not set for maximum depth of cut, the frame is pretty darn flexible (stronger language would have been preferred). At max. depth the plate is much better supported and seems pretty rigid. Do other users have a problem with this? I am trying to decide whether to keep or return it.

Thanks,
Phil

[JimD]

I find the circular saw to be useful but not nearly as useful as the drill or jigsaw. My issue is not so much flexibility in the base, I find it OK from that standpoint but I agree it is not real rigid, but power. With a fresh battery, it will do a bit of work but not a lot. In other words, it depletes batteries quickly. If I need to rip 3/4 plywood I am not confident I can make a cut lengthwise. Maybe my blade has dulled but I never found it to have plenty of power. For 1/2 material or thinner, it has plenty of power. For 3/4 or more, it will do it but not for real long. If the battery is not fresh, it will not do much.

The jigsaw probably would deplete the battery as fast if I did the same things with it but I do not. It does little cuts and so it does fine. The drill depletes batteries fast if I drill large holes in metal or use a big hole saw but that is not normally what I do.

Jim

[FL Buckeye]

I like mine but don't use it regularly. I'm turning a covered deck into a three season room now so have used the circular saw a lot the last week or so. I am also using the impact driver, drill and the reciprocating saw. With the charger and two batteries I haven't had any problem runing out of power sawing through 3/4" PT T&G plywood. I set the depth for the saw teeth to go through about 1/4" and haven't noticed any frame flexing problems.
The recip saw taxes the batteries much more. I would like to try the new lithium batteries if the prices ever come down. Did you buy with the new lithium or the standard blue batteries?

[Len]

What type of blade are you using? I found the battery held up using the blade that came with the saw for cross cutting 1x's and dicing up plywood up to about 3/8in thick. On plywood over 3/8in the battery didn't last as long until I went to a 'coarser' (less teeth, rougher cut) blade.

This days I mostly use it for paneling and peg board, and fall back on my old B&D corded 'SawCat' for the heavier circular saw cutting.

Len

[FL Buckeye]

What type of blade are you using?
Len

Don't know who you were asking but I'm using an Oldham 18T Max Life Carbide blade that I think I got at HD. There's not a large selection of 5 1/2" blades out there. Next week I might try using the saw with a plywood blade backwards to cut some vinyl shingle siding.

[leehljp]

While this does not address the "flexing" issue per se, I would like to make note of something of a misconception / mis-perception of "battery" powered tools.

Battery powered impact drivers (IDs) and drills run for a fairly long time as compared to a battery powered circular saw. Battery powered IDs and Drills do a great job of replacing corded drills and hammer drills around the home and in certain construction phases. So, the idea that most "battery powered" tools are a decent replacement of corded tools - is totally skewed by the success of IDs and Drills.

Having said that, a battery powered circular saw has a much more limited place, and should not be expected to replace a corded saw. I have the Ryobi 18V saw and use it in confined space, where two or three cuts are needed. I haven't noticed any flexing for the way that I use it. Conversely, I have experienced flexing on some of my medium duty saws, (Makita and Hitachi) but it is usually when I am in a hurry or have a dull blade on thick cut-offs. The point behind that 'experience statement' is that all will flex in some situations with force*. The battery powered saw will flex in more situations, and if it does, it is not a good thing. It is time for a tougher tool, time for a blade cleaning or a new blade or different technique or evaluating what tool is best for the job. It is also a sign that danger is near.

It is possible that you have a defective saw. If not a defect, it will come back to your intended use - do you need a heavier saw for the situation or the different technique or blade.

* Most all saws can distort or flex in specific situations under the right kind of force. Flexing can come from the user forcing the cut or it can come from the wood pinching the blade, or from a defective housing.

Adding in one more thing - you are referring to the flexing when only a portion of the blade is lowered. This us usually when flexing is most possible. It also indicates that the plywood is probably not flat or supported enough underneath. If the wood being cut is 'flat' and well supported, then flexing should be minimal.

[SARGE..g-47]

Ditto Hank Lee on his assessment of cordless vs corded. I have never been thrilled with cordless tools. I just purchased a Makita 10.8 drill-impact set from HD that was just released by Makita at IWF. I got to use it before the show began to help assemble over 40 large machines. Lithium powered.. the two drills weight 2 lbs. and fit in your palm. And the impact driver will sink a 2 1/2" sheet metal screw into a pilot hole drilled with the Makita 2 lb. palm drill. An excellent set for an introduction price of $179 as it comes with two 10.8 Lithium batteries and charger.

I was walking through HD two days ago and saw the 18 V circular with their impact driver (a combo with a sign that said limited supply) for $69. I have been around long enough to know you get what you pay for but... I have the corded Ryobi impact driver and it is a good value. I knew the cordless circular would not handle man sized task as it is not industrial strenght compounded by the fact it uses standard batteries as opposed to longer lasting Lithium.

I don't use ply often but do cut down a piece or two of 4 X 8 1/4" to use as dust backs on chest and drawer bottoms. I always cut down ply with a circular saw to get it down small enough to take to the TS. I have a PC 7 1/4"15 A circular I use inside in winter (it directs dust away from you and has good vac adaptability) and I use a Rigid 6 1/2" Fuego outside for the task as it is very light and very powerful. The dust out there is not an issue.

But... I took a chance on the Ryobi circular (with the impact driver) as those two saws are way much for flexy 1/4" ply. The little Ryobi battery powered will cut down 1/4" ply before the battery discharges (which is pretty soon) but.... I tried it on a piece of 1/2" MDF and it bogged about 18" into the cut.

So... I find it fine matched to what I consider it can do but I call on the corded "big boys" for tougher task. The Ryobi is light and I would love to get rid of a cord when cutting ply on occasion. But I am not going to invest in a larger Makita or PC cordless Saw Boss just to cut a few pieces of ply. And when it comes to deck building and heavy 2 x 4 pressure treat.. the corded Rigid is light and very power-ful at 13 A because of the design. "Fuego" means "hot" in Spanish slang. It is "Red Hot" indeed and an excellent circular at 8 lbs.

[HauntedBranch]

I thank you all for the replies and information. I have an old Craftsman circular saw but was hoping for a lighter saw, mostly for cutting ply. I plan to use it with a saw board since I cannot cut a straight line without one. The saw board was one thing I was concerned about because it places the bend-y side against the straight-edge and requires that I put some downward pressure there. I have not actually cut anything with the saw because I am away from the work location. I should have a chance to try it out within the next few days and probably should do that before I decide about keeping it.

Again, thanks for the help.

Phil

[Gator95]

But... I took a chance on the Ryobi circular (with the impact driver) as those two saws are way much for flexy 1/4" ply. The little Ryobi battery powered will cut down 1/4" ply before the battery discharges (which is pretty soon) but.... I tried it on a piece of 1/2" MDF and it bogged about 18" into the cut.

I've got the Ryobi, and while it has a bunch of drawbacks I've never had an issue cutting up plywood or MDF with it using a freshly-charged battery. It only bogs if the charge is almost gone. The Ryobi NiCads need to be charged and discharged for a couple cycles before they hold a full charge.

I use my 5 1/2" Ryobi cordless to break sheet goods down all the time, and it only bogs when I screw up and feed like it's a Milwaukee 15Amp or use a depleated battery.

It's main drawbacks are that the bevel adjustments are a joke and that the amount of base flex is too much for precision work. But for breaking down sheet goods for trimming to size on TS, rough work like fencing or outdoor stuff, or quick cuts that don't have to be perfelty square the Ryobi works just fine.