Anant Kamal.. better than Anant pictures

[SARGE..g-47]

Sorry.. I just posted a tool review and I suppose you can't attach pictures.. These go with the review...

[Knottscott]

Now that won't exactly fit in your back packet will it Sarge?! Nice looking plane and it looks like you've got it working well too. Thanks for the review!

I've got a Bailey #6 heading my way from a fellow on Woodnet but don't have a 7 or 8 yet.

[crokett]

That is a very handsome plane indeed. And looks like you have it tuned out perfectly.

[SARGE..g-47]

Now that won't exactly fit in your back packet will it Sarge?! Nice looking plane and it looks like you've got it working well too. Thanks for the review!

I've got a Bailey #6 heading my way from a fellow on Woodnet but don't have a 7 or 8 yet.

Unfortunately.. it won't fit in the front pocket either, Scott. I sold my LV#6 about 6 months ago and have been looking for a bed-rock but that has been futile so far. People are asking too much as hand planes seem to have been re-discovered.

Not having the #6 left a gap with only having a #4.. #5 and the various block and shoulders. I built a new work-bench top several weeks ago and had to borrow a #7 to final flatten so it came at a good time. Enjoy the #6 as getting from someone at Woodnet is less risky than E-bay IMO. I really prefer to look before I leap but that is not always possible I realize.

Regards...

[SARGE..g-47]

That is a very handsome plane indeed. And looks like you have it tuned out perfectly.

Lots of work Crockett, with a day lost to projects but a tool gained that will be used for long to come. I enjoyed taking the day off from projects just for a change of pace.

Thank you, sir...

[AlanWS]

Thank you Sarge. That is a very useful post to show how much work it is to properly tune a plane, and where the effort should go. I would expect an older Stanley to require less work than that to get it into good working order. Is that what you meant when you referred to buying from Woodnet denizens as less risky?

Alan

[Hoover]

Thank you Sarge for your review. It looks like you got that plane to work great. Sorry to hear that the Kamals aren't that much of an improvement over the original Anants. The Kamals were hyped to be as good as the original Stanleys, sadly it looks as if a person needs to look elsewhere.

[SARGE..g-47]

Thank you Sarge. That is a very useful post to show how much work it is to properly tune a plane, and where the effort should go. I would expect an older Stanley to require less work than that to get it into good working order. Is that what you meant when you referred to buying from Woodnet denizens as less risky?

Alan

Actually no, Alan. What I referred to is someone that is a regular on a forum and is known to have good character is less likely attempting to scam or cover up problems such a crack in the frog.. etc. I suppose I just don't have full trust in all that use E-bay.. etc.

But.. on the other hand you brought up a good point about a Stanley.. Sarge.. Miller Falls being a safe bet. If... if... it doesn't have a crack in the casiting.. frog.. throat.. etc. That is the main thing I worry about buying sight unseen from someone that lives outside of my area. And of course the possibly that there might be someone dis-honest that could rip you off from the get-go. I'm just cautious really as most cases I'm sure would be fine.

Regards...

[dkerfoot]

Just adding a note to say that my experience with my Anant Kamal #5 is somewhat more positive than Sarge's. Part of it seems to be that I received a better tool. Part of it has to do with our perspectives and priorities.

I added a review below Sarge's:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?p=349822

[SARGE..g-47]

Well done, Doug. Actually with the exception of the grind marks from machining.. we really didn't see much in difference. Was your plane blue on the inside as the others I saw at Highland? This #7 was black as the standard Anant?

My soles and sides were pretty flat as I stated... but just took a lot of work to go below those grind marks and really smooth it. And I do agree with your statement about the designer not accomodating for the thicker iron. I think that is exactly what happended as a thinner Anant blade dropped through perfectly as I tried it.

But.. I wanted the thicker iron and opened the mouth to accomodate so the frog did sit flush with the back of the throat opening. I tried moving it back.. but it was still not enough clearance on the #7 I got. And I also wonder about variances between one and another as I have already re-furbished a standard #4 and #5 Anant. The #4 required almost no work and had very few grind marks. The #5 had some.. but not as deep as the #7.

And once done.. these planes work as well as the LV (which I love really) but sold to move money to other areas of the shop. At this point which is a lot of work... I have no intention of dumping the plane as it as good as any IMO.

The main thing I questioned is for a beginner that does not under-stand the dynamics of how plane parts work in conjunction getting ahold of one and not understanding what it takes to make it a keeper. In other words.. become frustrated with planes period and just drop the idea. I feel there is always a need for hand planes and I sit surrounded with over $9 K in modern power tools.

Regards...

[dkerfoot]

Yes - mine is blue, but I would personally prefer the black.

I will probably continue to open the mouth over time. A few strokes of the file every time I sharpen the blade. I am always nervous about overdoing things that can't be undone (from past, bad experience!)

My comments on not having to have a perfectly flat sole were not aimed specifically at you - just a general reference. As we have all seen, oftentimes the wisdom of the internet leads to the extreme. I agree with you that deep grind marks would be very annoying and I'd have wanted them gone too.

One of the attractions of hand tools for me is the lack of airborne dust. I have pretty severe hay fever, so when I am working with power tools, I've got to have the DC and an air filter running and feel like I am geared up for working with hazardous chemicals in my respirator, hearing protection and safety glasses. I really love grabbing a hand plane or scraper and working "in the breeze!"

On the other hand, I picked up a Craftsman 6" jointer the other day for $35 and can't believe I ever worked without it. It is so easy and convenient to run a workpiece through a couple times and know that it is perfectly flat and square. Hand tools require learned skills in use and for maintenance. I am searching for a balance between the two.

[SARGE..g-47]

I'm guessing Doug, that all the "Camels" are blue with the exception of the #7 as I trust my eyes. I do like the brass adjuster screw as opposed to the zinc and the handle looks much better (which doesn't really matter how it looks) than the romper room finish on the standards.

BTW.. just so we are on the same wave-lenght as you may have mis-interpretted my take on how I treat a sole. I totally agree it doesn't have to be 100% flat. My #4 is and almost came that way out of the box. Very few grind marks and with-in .002-.003 all the way. The sides did need some trueing, but not much.

The #5 jack had more grind marks and a the entire length of center was slightly concave or like the inside of a circle. The #7 "Camel" was also slightly concave the length of center.. but with much deeper grind marks which added to the problem.

What I aim for is to remove as many grind marks as possible while flattening the sole. The grind marks produce drag and there-fore friction. Same reason I wax my soles for other than rust prevention. I will stop taking the grind marks out and consequently polishing when the sole reachs a point that it is:

Polished and flat across "all" the area just behind the toe...

All area in front of the heel...

All the area in front and rear of the throat...

And the entire outer perimeter of the sole...

Those are the crucial areas of flat as they are your register points. A slight cup in center between these areas will not affect the action of the plane. In fact... the #4 turned out completely flat and very highly polished to get that without much work. The # 5 still has about a 1/2" wide concarve area in the center. The # 7 has a spot concave the size of a quarter behind the toe and a concave area in front of the heal about the size of a silver dollar.

I would have had to spend another 2 hours to get those out and it was not necessary because they are not in register areas. So... at this point I quit dressing it and put them to work which is the bottom line goal.

So... again I think we are on the same page with sole flatness... but through mis-interpretation of words used.... under the impression we weren't. It amazes me to see how many words it takes to clarify all this with a simple plane.. when if someone were with me and I was pointing directly to a plane to describe, it could be done in about 2 minutes maximum.

Regards...