I have the small version on my bench-top DP and it's good, about triples the size of the table. Just be careful not to put anything really heavy on the front edge of the table because it can tip whole thing forward.
I was thinking about that too. I was going to make one but with 25% off that may swing things towards rockler. The usually have this table discounted anyway but if that the case you cant have the 25% on top.
Jon
Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
________________________________
We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them techzibits.com
I have the small version on my bench-top DP and it's good, about triples the size of the table. Just be careful not to put anything really heavy on the front edge of the table because it can tip whole thing forward.
Do you have it fixed to the bench? If you dont want it as a permanent fixture you can still mount it on a plywood base and clamp this down to the edge of the bench and/or use bench dog/clamps
Jon
Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
________________________________
We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them techzibits.com
It is interesting that they show it on the delta laser press, as it already has t-slots, etc... it's a pretty cool table though. I use hold downs on my DP all the time now and really think it's a big improvement.
Do you have it fixed to the bench? If you dont want it as a permanent fixture you can still mount it on a plywood base and clamp this down to the edge of the bench and/or use bench dog/clamps
Nope, everything I have has to be portable/stowable at this point since I don't have any space for a dedicated shop area yet. I clamp it when I can, but it's tough to clamp to the washer or dryer which are my benches a lot of the time.
I made one that is similar to the Rockler model out of MDF and hardwood scraps I had just laying around the shop. I doubt if I have more than $10-$15 invested in it including the t-track and holddowns. It was a fun little project that can be knocked out easily in an afternoon or evening.
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I made one that is similar to the Rockler model out of MDF and hardwood scraps I had just laying around the shop. I doubt if I have more than $10-$15 invested in it including the t-track and holddowns. It was a fun little project that can be knocked out easily in an afternoon or evening.
Yup, I think ROckler has some deals on T track and hold downs so $15 should cover the HW. I have plenty of MDF and scraps so I think I will just build one.
How did you decide to fix it to the table? Clamps on the edge or screw through the table holes?
Jon
Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
________________________________
We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them techzibits.com
I mounted my shop-built DP table similar to what is somewhat shown in the link from sweensdv, except I installed the t-nuts so that they line up with the holes in the factory steel DP table. I put some loctite on pieces of threaded rod of the appropriate length and screwed it into the t-nuts (basically making studs to align the DP table with the steel table) , then I used a knob and washer to hold it in place. It works very well and goes on and off pretty quick.
My DP table is made from 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF laminated together, if your DP table is only 3/4" thick, you will need to be careful with the t-nut placement to prevent interferance with the t-track.
I roughly followed the plan of a similar table in Wood magazine. It has a t-track in the fence for stops and part of the fence slides out to give more support and range. I almost never use this feature, however. One nice feature is to make the top surface 1/4 tempered hardboard and make the center part where you drill replaceable. My top surface is two layers of 1/2 BB plywood plus the 1/4 hardboard. I put several drawers under the top for bits (my drill press is a floor standing model). I screwed it to the steel drill press table from below and shimmed it with old business cards to get the top square to a piece of steel rod in the chuck.
Here's one I made. I did something similar to what JimD mentioned, but my top layer is 1/2" mdf. Bottom is 3/4" mdf. The replaceable center is easily made from scrap 1/2" mdf. I used small scraps on the bottom to border the original steel table in order position it easily, then bolted into threaded inserts installed in the table. The fence now has a T-slot routed in it for stop blocks. At the time I didn't have a T-slot router bit.
After looking at the Rockler table I decided that it was to wide and I would have to cut it down for the room available in the shop. Instead I picked up one of their 48" T track kits and am going to make my own. Thanks to all you saved me some $$.
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