B&D Workmate vice jaws

[Schleeper]

Vice jaws?!!! What can I tell you; that's what Black & Decker calls 'em. They're the two wooden panels on the top of the Workmate that do all the work. And for years they've been constructed out of particle board, guaranteeing that they have no tolerance for wetness. I used mine last year as a base for my tile wet saw, so the panels have swelled nicely in the corners. Yesterday, I came across what I thought would be good replacements.

I was shopping at the B&D outlet in Lancaster PA yesterday, and they were blowing out a big stack of the model 125 "mini-Workmates" - the ones that have a base as stable as a TV tray - for $19.99. That's less than I would have to pay for new vice jaws for my model 225! Besides, from the picture on the box, it appeared that the jaws are actually constructed of wood or plywood, instead of particle board. It looked like a no-brainer, so I grabbed one. (Unfortunately, as it turned out the mounting holes don't line up. Another good idea, shot down in flames!)

What I found interesting, was the hardwood construction of the vice jaws on that inexpensive Workmate. They're made of bamboo! Not a surprise, I suppose, since the words, "Made in China" are prominently displayed on the item, next to the Workmate trademark.

I suppose I can just make my own replacement top. MDF seems like an obvious choice of material, but then I'd still have to steer clear of the water. What about a piece of that hard yellow pine? I can probably make both jaws from one stair tread. For those of you with Workmates, what have you done about replacement "vice jaws?"

[justaguy]

My Workmate is older than dirt and the top is made of 7/8" 22 ply plywood. I have never needed to replace the top and doubt I ever will.

[just started]

My Workmate is older than dirt and the top is made of 7/8" 22 ply plywood. I have never needed to replace the top and doubt I ever will.

My 2 also are from the early 70's and have high-quality wood tops, water just rolls off. If I ever found a way to damage one I would make a replacement from the best furniture-grade plywood or a slice of the hardest wood I could find.

[LarryG]

If I ever have to replace the jaws on mine, I'll probably use Baltic birch plywood.

[poolhound]

Mine is also older than the hills but still going. The original "Jaws" are plywood. It got a bit ragged and actually enlarged the top and replaced with more plywood. I just gave them a few coats of whatever left over poly I happend to have around.

[LinuxRandal]

My father has an old one, that I believe was made in England, it looks more like solid wood (maple?).

I have a newer one, with what appears (still older then the current ones), to be baltic birch on it. I would try to go that route, or ask your local hardwood store for some smooth, exterior grade plywood. After finishing a replacement top (pegs are available inexpesively through Rockler), I would wax it.

[dkerfoot]

I put a larger back vice on one of mine, so that it can handle larger pieces. I used MDF filled plywood and it has held up well.

One of the challenges with these tops is the way they clamp edge to edge - Not really what most layered woods are designed for...

[JimD]

Mine is also very old and good plywood. I also agree with Larry that Baltic Birch would be good for a replacement. The holes for the dogs are not quite 3/4 inch - probably a metric size. Rocklers sells very similar plastic dogs that work in 3/4 holes.

Jim

[thrytis]

Don't knock the bamboo! Mine (model 425) uses bamboo, and it has held up very well. Getting it a little wet doesn't harm it. A couple of days ago i had the top of my bandsaw (about 200 lbs) standing up on it so i slide it onto the bandsaw base and the weight wasn't a problem.

If i had to replace the top, i probably would grab a couple of hardwood shorts at the sawmill to make it out of. I would think something like solid maple would hold up better than plywood and still have plenty of strength.

[Schleeper]

Don't knock the bamboo! Mine (model 425) uses bamboo, and it has held up very well. Getting it a little wet doesn't harm it. A couple of days ago i had the top of my bandsaw (about 200 lbs) standing up on it so i slide it onto the bandsaw base and the weight wasn't a problem.

If i had to replace the top, i probably would grab a couple of hardwood shorts at the sawmill to make it out of. I would think something like solid maple would hold up better than plywood and still have plenty of strength.

There's abosultely nothing wrong with bamboo; it just took me a little by surprise. Believe me, if the mounting holes were the same as the ones on my 225, I would have slapped those bad boys on in a second!

I don't have any scrap pieces of black walnut or Brazilian cherry laying around (or any other very hard wood, for that matter,) and if I did I can't envision using it for replacement jaws on my old Workmate. Ditto for buying some. If Southern Yellow Pine is hard enough for stair treads, that's good enough for me. Besides, one tread is just about the perfect size for making two jaws. (They'll be a quarter of an inch thicker, and a few inches longer, but that's not a bad thing.)

OK, time to 'fess up. For those of you that made replacements for yours, how many of you painted the "measuring sticks" (English and Metric) on them? If I've got nothing better to do, I may use the woodburning pen to do mine.

[poolhound]

There's abosultely nothing wrong with bamboo; it just took me a little by surprise. Believe me, if the mounting holes were the same as the ones on my 225, I would have slapped those bad boys on in a second!

I don't have any scrap pieces of black walnut or Brazilian cherry laying around (or any other very hard wood, for that matter,) and if I did I can't envision using it for replacement jaws on my old Workmate. Ditto for buying some. If Southern Yellow Pine is hard enough for stair treads, that's good enough for me. Besides, one tread is just about the perfect size for making two jaws. (They'll be a quarter of an inch thicker, and a few inches longer, but that's not a bad thing.)

OK, time to 'fess up. For those of you that made replacements for yours, how many of you painted the "measuring sticks" (English and Metric) on them? If I've got nothing better to do, I may use the woodburning pen to do mine.

I am absolutley with you. I cant imaging taking any high end expensive stock just to make jaws on my WM. We are not talking about our main workbench here or nice flat (not mine :-)) assembly table. My WM is mainly a utility (and great at it) device, it gets used as a base for various tools, as a finishing stand, saw horse, cutting and planing station. It realy gets a lot of abuse and the surface gets dinged regularly. It doesnt affect the operation and every now and again I will sand it down with my BS and give it a few coats of poly.

Also if you used heavy hardwood for the jaws, as the faces are so thin you may end up damaging softer woods when you use it. I would rather it were the other way around.