Sharpening Blades

[crokett]

I got a Veritas sharpening jig last week and used it last night to sharpen the blade on a Millers Falls #14. I got it sharper but not nearly as sharp as the one I sent out to Dedaddy.

Anyhoo, my reference for sharpening was this page
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.w...8769fbc0a3e6a3

But I am confused. The veritas jig includes a guide so you can set the blade to the correct bevel angle. Then you can rotate a knob, flip the blade and get the correct back bevel. The above link describes a microbevel on the bevel angle. So do I want a micro bevel or a back bevel? Also, how critical is hollow-ground?

[jackellis]

David,

This is a pretty colorful description of the "Scary Sharp" method. Like your reference, I can't bear the hassles of having to deal with stones, flattening and oil. the only thing that's unorthodox about my approach is using a piece of melamine for the base instead of glass. I'm a but klutzy at times and the thought of having to clean glass slivers off the shop floor guided me elsewhere.

I think it just takes some practice. Sometimes I get razor sharp results and sometimes a bit less. It's probably a bit more costly than using stones but it's easy and somewhat less messy. I've been cleaning old plane irons and I get decent enough results.

I do not hone microbevels or back bevels on my tools - too complicated and I'm not sure it matters. I make sure the top inch of the back is flat and polished, then hone the face of the bevel. On a chipped iron or chisel, I start with 80 grid, then go to 150, 220, 400, 1500. The key is to hone at one grit until the edge is flat and smooth and there's a wire on the other side, then turn the blade, flatten the back to break the wire, then move on to the next grit.

[eddy merckx]

Hi David

I think you're trying too hard with that MKll. All you have to do is slide the bevel gauge to the correct blade width on the honing guide and lock it in place. Then you insert the plane iron, bevel down. Slide it so it's tight against the bevel gauge on it's side. Slide the iron lengthwise so it butts against wherever you have the bevel gauge set for length. Tighten the brass nuts, then remove the bevel guide. You're good to go.

A microbevel is handy for next time you sharpen. It allows you to just sharpen the end, rather than the entire bevel. Way faster. When the microbevel gets most of the way down the bevel, it's time to grind a new bevel and start the process over.

A back bevel is cool. It allows you to change the angle at which the blade contacts the wood. You would use it for "difficult woods" like figured maple, etc. It makes a really big difference in avoiding tear out. It does make the plane harder to push. I dedicated a ratty old #4 plane for just that purpose.

A hollow ground bevel is the result of getting the bevel started on a grinding wheel. It creates a very shallow concave divet in the middle of the bevel. Makes it a bit easier the sharpen, since you're only sharpening the ends of the bevel. Beware of sharpening irons on a grinder though, as you can ruin the steel really fast if it overheats. A hollow ground will not make the blade cut better.

One more item of unsolicited advice. I started honing my irons on a leather strop as a final honing. It makes a very noticeable difference. I leave the iron in the guide and pull it backward across the strop. It will literally make the iron razor sharp.

Eddy

[SARGE..g-47]

Pretty much as Eddy says... but one point that was not made is you have to start off with a flat back. The back much be flattened (the first 1" or 1 1/2" is OK as you won't go past it till much latter) with the scary sharp and honed or the effort on the front side is wasted. To get a true edge.. both sides much meet at a razor's point.

And totally agree with Eddy on stropping it. Once you attain your edge.. if you look at it under a magnifying glass, you will see a very fine burr or what appears to be a fuzzy line. The stropping takes that off. While working with your iron or chisel.. doesn't hurt to take it to the strop every so often for a few passes either.

If you ever see a real butcher or barbar give a straight edge shave... you'll see a strop belt hanging beside them. And you'll definitely see em use it as they are aware of the benefit in the cut they intend to make.

PS.. I do use a secondary bevel on the front but not a back-edge. If you use wild grain stock a lot... it is beneficial as Eddy said but otherwise not necessary. And I personally don't use hollow ground. Quicker to re-edge but also weakens the front face to the point a good edge won't hold as long IMO.

Back to the shop...

[crokett]

Thanks fellas. Looks like 2 mistakes. Impatience and not flipping the blade periodically to flatten the back. I will try again this week.

[jackellis]

Maybe one more thing. I also have the Veritas jig. Doing one plane iron last night, I draw the jig toward me but never pushed it, thinking that by doing so, I'd shear fewer cutting particles off the sandpaper. I also got a better wire edge than usual and the blade seemed sharper when I was finished.

You might try only drawing the jig towards you and not pushing it away.

I read what others say, then keep experimenting until I figure out what works best.

The strop sounds like a great idea, too.